A/C Compressor 'whirring clickety' noise while engaged
#1
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A/C Compressor 'whirring clickety' noise while engaged
A/C works fine but I get this disconcerting whirring clickety noise that comes from the compressor/clutch while it's engaged. Higher rpms make it higher pitch and more disconcerting. As far as I know, it's the original R12 system. I can see that the inner faces of the clutch look like they are lightly oiled and I can turn it by hand when the car is not running, if that means anything. The image shows the glisten of the oil behind the front plate. Suggestions/thoughts/advice?
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Re: A/C Compressor 'whirring clickety' noise while engaged
If the clutch has oil on it, that means the seal in the front of the compressor is shot.
It's "possible" to pull the clutch and change the seal, but then the very next day the compressor itself will probably grenade. Or at least, that's how it would work for me: the only kind of luck I have, is the kind everybody tries to avoid. The misc mechanical noises from inside it are telling you the same thing: it's ready to retire unexpectedly at any moment.
Best thing to do is get a whole new compressor. Have somebody who wants the 12 to reclaim it; then replace the comp along with the drier and orifice tube; flush the lines, condenser, and evap thoroughly; and convert to R-134A. I've written up how to do it many times... search this forum for my userID and the phrase "orifice tube".
You should be easily able to turn the compressor by hand with the car not running.
It's "possible" to pull the clutch and change the seal, but then the very next day the compressor itself will probably grenade. Or at least, that's how it would work for me: the only kind of luck I have, is the kind everybody tries to avoid. The misc mechanical noises from inside it are telling you the same thing: it's ready to retire unexpectedly at any moment.
Best thing to do is get a whole new compressor. Have somebody who wants the 12 to reclaim it; then replace the comp along with the drier and orifice tube; flush the lines, condenser, and evap thoroughly; and convert to R-134A. I've written up how to do it many times... search this forum for my userID and the phrase "orifice tube".
You should be easily able to turn the compressor by hand with the car not running.
#3
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Re: A/C Compressor 'whirring clickety' noise while engaged
If the clutch has oil on it, that means the seal in the front of the compressor is shot.
It's "possible" to pull the clutch and change the seal, but then the very next day the compressor itself will probably grenade. Or at least, that's how it would work for me: the only kind of luck I have, is the kind everybody tries to avoid. The misc mechanical noises from inside it are telling you the same thing: it's ready to retire unexpectedly at any moment.
Best thing to do is get a whole new compressor. Have somebody who wants the 12 to reclaim it; then replace the comp along with the drier and orifice tube; flush the lines, condenser, and evap thoroughly; and convert to R-134A. I've written up how to do it many times... search this forum for my userID and the phrase "orifice tube".
You should be easily able to turn the compressor by hand with the car not running.
It's "possible" to pull the clutch and change the seal, but then the very next day the compressor itself will probably grenade. Or at least, that's how it would work for me: the only kind of luck I have, is the kind everybody tries to avoid. The misc mechanical noises from inside it are telling you the same thing: it's ready to retire unexpectedly at any moment.
Best thing to do is get a whole new compressor. Have somebody who wants the 12 to reclaim it; then replace the comp along with the drier and orifice tube; flush the lines, condenser, and evap thoroughly; and convert to R-134A. I've written up how to do it many times... search this forum for my userID and the phrase "orifice tube".
You should be easily able to turn the compressor by hand with the car not running.
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Re: A/C Compressor 'whirring clickety' noise while engaged
Call shops that advertise AC work.
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z 305 LB9 AT Convertible
Engine: LB9 305
Transmission: AT
Re: A/C Compressor 'whirring clickety' noise while engaged
The failing compressor may send metallic debris through the system, unless it is just a bad clutch.
I would install a NEW compressor and ofrice tube, maybe a dryer also.
Get 3 cans of this https://chicago.craigslist.org/wcl/p...143090428.html
and find a shop that will evacuate and recharge the system with the R12 you supply. There are numerous threads, on lots of car forums, regarding R134A conversion that were an expensive PITA and performed poorly. Also, in my 25+ years in the Auto repair business, I saw conversion attempts that did not perform.
My experience makes me agree with Scotty" above, also!
Now, the conversion fans can chime in.
#7
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Re: A/C Compressor 'whirring clickety' noise while engaged
I've had great luck with my R134a conversion in my '91 RS. Did it about 3 years ago, still blows cold. Make sure you replace all the seals, orifice tube, and dryer (all relatively cheap parts), and do a vacuum as well. If you don't have access to and knowledge of an a/c machine, let the pros do it. You can cause serious harm to the vehicle and yourself if you don't know what you're doing.
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#8
Re: A/C Compressor 'whirring clickety' noise while engaged
That "Scotty" guy seems to think that a vane-type compressor is a "complicated" piece of machinery. After observing that, any opinion in the video seemed to make more sense. I think someone missed their calling as a traveling shoelace salesman.
2¢
2¢
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Re: A/C Compressor 'whirring clickety' noise while engaged
I've done more 134a conversions than I can remember.
Haven't ever had any particular problems with em, since I do em RIGHT. (replace compressor, orifice tube, dryer, rubber lines, all O-rings & any part that leaks or is damaged; flush all re-used metal parts such as evap, cond, & lines)
I don't even have to watch "Scotty" to know he's full of excrement.
That said, 134a isn't as "good" of a refrigerant as 12, but the difference in maintainability and universality makes it worthwhile anyway. It's plenty "good enough".
Haven't ever had any particular problems with em, since I do em RIGHT. (replace compressor, orifice tube, dryer, rubber lines, all O-rings & any part that leaks or is damaged; flush all re-used metal parts such as evap, cond, & lines)
I don't even have to watch "Scotty" to know he's full of excrement.
That said, 134a isn't as "good" of a refrigerant as 12, but the difference in maintainability and universality makes it worthwhile anyway. It's plenty "good enough".
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