Hi there. I have a camaro rs with a 350 sbc swap from a previous owner. I was unable to read any engine codes except the code on the front passenger side metal pad under the alternator. That code is K1019UPC. It is a 350 and I need to find out what it's from to order the correct parts. If anyone could decipher that code or needs me to find more information to do so, please let me know. Thank you very much, Josh u

 

That number is useless AFAIK.

Post some pics of what you have and a list of what "parts" you need to order.

GD

 

That stamping code denotes AN ENTIRE ENGINE PACKAGE, for a specific chassis and application.

That means that it tells, this BLOCK came in a 1989 Caprice (74 truck, 78 Monte Carlo, whatever). When installed it had 193 heads (or 624 or 882 or whatever). It had a [whatever] cam, had exhaust manifolds that fit that chassis, had a 2-bbl or 4-bbl carb or TBI or whatever, and so forth.

The VAST majority of 350s that will be available for a "swap" have already long since lost all of the things that make them whatever stamping code is on the block. You are NOT going to be able to extract any useful information from those codes stamped on the BLOCK that apply to the ENGINE that it is now part of. Virtually ALL "swap" motors have been "rebuilt"; once somebody has been inside them and started changing out parts, it is NO LONGER the motor that goes with the "codes".

For example, you could take a 350 BLOCK from some wheezy 76 Impala 2-bbl that made 160 HP when new; put a forged crank, H-beam rods, forged pistons, a solid roller cam, aftermarket heads, and whatever all else onto it; and come up with a 700 HP MONSTER. The codes won't tell you that. Likewise, you could take the BLOCK from a 70½ Z/28 LT-1, put a 442 (cast garbage) crank in it, "rebuilder" .040" over dished pistons with the extra .020" or "rebuilder" deck clearance, a 929 cam replica, 882 heads, ... and get a turd; but the BLOCK would still proudly proclaim that it's a 70½ Z/28 LT-1.

Now REALLY, how useful is that?

You don't need to know much of anything about what it came out of to "order parts". I'm going to assume that this involves things like spark plugs? Those don't even go into the block, they go into the heads. You could run that block # and discover that it's from a 72 Chevelle 350 2-bbl; and go buy spark plugs for that; but the HEADS might be off of a 91 truck, and those plugs won't even fit.



As said, post up some pics, and maybe we can tell a little about that you have. Also, get the block casting number (conveniently located conspicuously in the open, on top of the bell housing flange behind the driver's side head). and the head casting #, which is under the valve covers.

 

I managed to get the partial Vin and the casting number. Buried under wiring harnesses in my car that probably aren't meant to be there. The casting number is 10054727 The code in the front plate, again, is K1019UPC and the partial Vin TL7507696.

I think I jumped a tooth on my timing chain or just need new cap and rotor because my car was running great and then backfired and died cruising at thirty and wouldn't start despite good spark and fuel. It would pop and backfire when trying to start but not try and run, and my rotor is turning and I'm getting oil pressure. Nothing was changed between running and not running.
Thanks a lot, Josh

 

727 I think is an early 1-pc RMS block, no roller provisions, cast probably in 85 or 86. 99% odds it came out of a truck although the assy plant (L in the VIN) is Van Nuys which would indicate one of these cars, but none of them came with 350s in those years so that's impossible anyway. Oh well, so much for the usefulness of the "codes".

Cap & rotor go with whatever distributor you have, in any case, not with the block. All distributors fit all blocks and it's AHELLUVALOT EEEEEZIER during a motor swap to re-use the one that came with the vehicle if the one on the "new" motor is different so that's probably what they did. Especially if it still has the TBI on it.

The dist would not be turning if the timing set had failed (at least, not at the same rate as the crank); and it also wouldn't have oil pressure since the timing set turns the cam, the cam turns the dist, and the dist turns the oil pump. More likely, you need cap & rotor, and/or ignition module.

If you have the 92 dist (small cap, coil is separate, wiring harness at the coil has pink & white wires) get the cap & rotor for a 92 305.

 

And if it still doesn't start, get the module. It needs the cap & rotor anyway, since you have no clue when it was last changed, so just go ahead and get those right off the bat.

 

Could have jumped on the cam sprocket - those older flat tappet engines from that year range had plastic cam sprocket teeth. The 305 in my 86 had a timing set like that and there were cracks in the plastic.

GD

 

Yes indeed... the phenolic (not quite exactly plastic; weeeeeeeker, and much older technology, but similar in some ways) often get stripped off the chinesium "gums" of the cam sprocket. But, seems like most often when that happens, the whole thing then ends up with SO MUCH slack, that the cam only turns intermittently, at best; which would not generally be enough to generate oil pressure.

But who knows...

It'll need a tune-up once the timing set is replaced, anyway; if it turns out that that's what happened to it. And, he can easily enough check that the dist (and therefore the cam) is turning normally, or not, with the cap & rotor off.

 

Update here on getting the car to work. Still getting fuel, too much at this point. Disconnected injectors and using starter spray for the time being. New cap and rotor for I believe the truck motor distributor, no change, same symptom of crank no start with occasional popping out of exhaust but no effort to run.

Checked my fuses, have a blown trunk lid fuse, that's the only anomaly and the gears in there are gone anyway soo. Going to install a new distributor ignition module tonight and see if we start and if that doesn't work a new distributor and return the cap rotor and ignition module tommorow. If that still doesn't work I'll tear the timing set on the engine down and replace I guess. If anyone has any suggestions, let me know. At TDC on the crank mark things the rotor is pointing at #1 cylinder, seems a bit closer to #3 but it's in the right general direction.

Trying to daily this car, luckily I only need it on Monday so I've got some time to troubleshoot

 

If the VIN posted, is showing the last 9 digits...

The letter "L" is the 10th digit from the start of the VIN.
This digit is for the model year of the vehicle, and L = 1990.

 

The 11th digit of the VIN, would be for the manufacturing plant (of the vehicle, not the engine).

If the engine is from a passenger vehicle or light-duty truck/ suv (Note light-duty trucks are: 1500, 2500, and 3500. medium-duty starts at 4500)...

7 = Lordstown, OH assembly plant.

 

I can get more info, or possible the full VIN on Monday; if you wish.

 

K1019UPC

K - St. Catharines, Ontario, Canada
10 - October
19 - 19th day
UPC - couldn't find this code recorded anywhere, are you sure about it?

10054727 - 1986 up 350, 2 or 4 bolt mains 1 piece rear main seal Made in Canada. Googling shows this block being non-roller.

TL7507696 - something is wrong with this number, Lordstown, Ohio was building fwd j body cars after 1986.

The block is likely from a 1987-1995 lo5 truck.

 

I am sure about the code being upc, I found it recorded here as this after a lot more research

Still not sure about the accuracy of that though

 

The sites I was looking at are more geared towards older sbc stuff, so your
UPC is probably right then. If you have centerbolt valve covers, likely 87+ if it looks like it hasn't been messed with. One of the threads I saw about this block said "no provision for fuel pump" so I'd assume the hole isn't drilled for the mechanical fuel pump. If the hole is there, 1986 is possible, if not definitely 87+ when the TBI treatment and electric fuel pumps started in trucks.

Is your Camaro TBI right now?

 

If the Vin posted was correct... it is clearly out of a 1990 vehicle.

 

Although I agree with you about manufacturing out of Lordstown.

 

Where is the mechanical fuel pump on older models, car is tbi with stock camaro rs systems running everything

 

It is mounted on the passenger side of the cylinder block, just above the oil-pan rail and close to the timing cover.

 

The FP bolts up to that feature on the block down low on the pass side that looks sorta like home plate.

I would add, that the pic in question there, is showing the bolt hole that, if there's not a SHORT bolt in it, will leak like a witch w/ capital B. It looks RIGHT DIRECTLY INTO the FP drive rod passage; in some blocks, if the rod isn't there, you can look right in to the crankshaft. Put a SHORT bolt in it, if you don't have one there, with a drop of sealer on the threads.