Alright. I know. "just drop a 350 in it" but I don't want to do that. I'm not building a race car I'm building a nice Sunday morning take the wife and dog down to the beach cruiser that's got a little pep. It's a 87 camaro 305. I took off the rochester and put a edelbrock on it (some say put it back because it won't make as much power. I like edelbrock. So I put it on.) I changed out the dizzy and did some trans magic to make it lockup when I want. Now. Plan is short tube headers straight back to right before the rear tires. (because I like the look) where I'm lost on is intake and cam. I could swap vortec heads on down the line but for now atleast, what would be a decent upgrade for the intake and cam? The wife likes the lopey idle sound so that's what I'm shooting for.

 

265 cid chop chop

 

Tuned performance when the 305 dies I'll put a better motor in it. Seeing as it has 30,000 miles on it. Not happening soon.

 

Keep in mind just before the rear tires is the same as underneath the doors.

A cam with a narrower than stock lsa will have a lopey idle and will also make less vacuum at idle.

For a street car, you probably want a dual plane manifold.

 

You want a lopey cam for a "Sunday morning take the wife and dog down to the beach cruiser"??
That will make no low-rpm power, will not produce enough vacuum for the power brakes, won't work with the stock converter, and will kill fuel economy. What do you have for rearend gear ratio?
Dumping the exhaust before the rear axle is not smart. Are you sure it has 30,000 miles and not 130,000?...

 

T L do you think something like this would work?

https://www.edelbrock.com/torker-plu...0-v8-5002.html

 

Have a set of Vortecs milled down to 58cc or so. LT4 hotcam, Alex spring kit. It will be fun

 

That's a flat-tappet cam. Didn't 1987 models have roller cams? That cam would produce the idle you want, but would exibit the behavior I mentioned in my previous reply. Your compression ratio is not more than 9.5:1 in that 305...

 

Yeah. 30k on it. Not 130k. It sat around for quit a while. So what can I do with the stock rear and stock converter. This is the first motor I'm trying to do anything with. I've done a good bit of motor work I'm not new to putting in cams and all that. I'm just not certain what to choose in the realm of upgrading.

 

On a mild 305 an S10 converter works great. I've ran one for years on my 305 and now 350, maybe 2200-2300 stall. Perfect for mild engine.

 

Ok for cam would this be a good choice?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...make/chevrolet
And for intake

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/e...olet/year/1987

 

That cam looks pretty decent. Won't be " lopey", but may have a bit of choppyness. Much better specs for what you have to work with.
That intake manifold won't really flow much better than the stock intake, but if your stock intake is not aluminum, it's a nice upgrade, and fits the Edelbrock carb without the need for an adaptor...

 

So with that cam would I be able to go a bit more aggressive? Its 270/274 .474/.474. should I look for a bit higher of both or just lift or duration?

 

I wouldn't go any more with lift or duration. Make sure you replace the valvesprings with some that have the proper tension...

 

Edelbrock will get you around while you fix the quadrajet provided you bought the TV correction bracket and properly adjusted the TV cable. Also I hope you did not hack the fuel lines and install rubber hose. Finally you need a different distributor as well as an aftermarket TCC lockup kit for the 700r4.

 

^^^^If it is an 87 and still has the factory engine it will have a factory roller cam.

 

Bear with me fella's, as I haven't touched a carb in years... but how exactly did you put an Edelbrock on in place of the Quadrajet without changing the intake manifold already? Are you running a spreadbore to squarebore adapter plate? Also, we went from not building a race car and just wanting a little pep to vortec heads and cam. I wouldn't waste my time planning mods like that for just a cruiser, and this is coming from someone who built a 305. If you just want a cruiser with pep that sounds tough, then keep it as is but with a throaty exhaust and 2400-RPM stall speed. You'll have sound and you'll have pep for those Sunday morning cruises. Why go through all of that work installing a cam, intake and heads only to get beat by a Kia.

- Rob

 

I already found a better use for the quadrajet. I keep it on a buddy's boat in case he forgets his anchor

 

I'm not certain what all I'm gonna do. Just trying to get some input. I'll really only want to put headers cam and intake on it. I do have the adapter for the edelbrock. Now I ask bear with me. Because I'm new to all this. What exactly would changing out the torque converter to a higher stall do? Also you ask why go through it all to be beat by a kia. Well I can't afford to much and it's all a learning process. It's all in effort to just gain knowledge. If I could slap a built 350 or 383 in it. I might. But I don't have that cash. So it's 305 for now.

 

I was teasing you. Of course you can build a 305, the only reasoning behind the bantering is because most of us went through it, and in the end, it's just so much easier to get a 350. But I digress. Stall speed will keep you in your power zone off idle, as well as after each shift. This is most of the reason why today's cars are so quick, not because of stall speed per se, but because of trans control. Also the reason why the C8 ECU is locked, as the only difference from what we can see is in the TCM control, the other areas are the same. But anyway, a stall speed, and governor mod will make a tremendous difference with even just a 300 horsepower engine...

- Rob.

 

Both those 2 cams want increased rpm, compression ratio, rear gearing and converter stall speed.
Getting these right is critical on a 305 high perf build.
The torque curve gets shifted up in rpm range to get more power up higher than stock. The engine wants to rev and run at faster rpm.

All work much better if you also improve the head port flow on any 305 head with porting... Valve springs need upgrade..

 

A aftermarket high stall converter has a rated stall speed that is generally refered to when behind a 350 sbc.. If used behind a smaller CID engine eg 305 cid expect less stall speed (400-500 rpm LESS stall)
A larger CID engine (454 cid) gives a higher stall speed (+400-500 rpm ) over advertized rated stall..
So, for a cammed up 305 be very agressive on choosing a converter stall speed.
You almost cannot over choose the stall speed on a high stall converter for a 305 cid sbc..
Get agressive with the rear gears too 4.10++
A cammed up 305 wants to rev up. Most all the power is ABOVE 4000 RPM. This is the nature if smaller CID high perf sbc's.

 

On a cammed 305 yiu want yhe compression ratio at or near 10:1 cr.. The details matter.. The headgasket choice matters a lot..

 

Compression, cam duration as well as ICL and LSA will make a huge difference. 305 does not need or want a dual pattern cam and works better with a 106ish LSA and 102 or even 98 ICL. Want to keep all the cylinder pressure you can create to help produce torque and want some overlap to help scavenge the chambers without going to an excessively long duration cam. Headers and exhaust will also make a big difference. 2.5" collector headers into 2.5" pipes then into a merge Y with a 3" single exhaust with a straight through non chambered muffler will support all but the healthiest 305 and give alot more torque than duals in the low-midrange. Also intake manifold and carb choice. That 600 cfm Edelbrock he has chosen will always have a bad flat spot at lower rpm on a 305 when the secondaries open. I ran one once on a cammed 305 and that non adjustable counterweighted velocity valve would always flap open at too low of a rpm and it was over carbed as a result making a nice lean bog that could not be tuned out. Ended up going from a performer intake and the 600 to a performer rpm spreadbore and a Q-Jet. Huge differece in power going to the rpm and the Q-jet EVERYWHERE in the powerband. Q-Jet also idled better, had alot better throttle response and got alot better fuel mileage. Small displacement engine likes those small primary venturis when it is cruising along.

 

That is a very informative post. Just wanted to say great job and thank you for the info. I have just ordered the full exhaust for my LB9 yesterday. Looks like I'm right on track with what you were saying. My only other plans are to port and polish intake/heads and I would like to put a cam in it. I was looking at or directed to the Crane 2032 but it appears Crane Cams is no longer in business. I have an 88 GTA with LB9. I assume it has the "peanut" cam everyone talks about?

 

Good high lift short duration hi perf with headers
Modest gears converter ok. on 305
Melling #22221 Equal to GM RamJet 350 high torque crate motor cam
Good comp cam choices for mild 305.
comp #08-409-8 or #08-411-8
Headers +gears great
Other brand hyd roller cams with same same .050 durations all good.
Easy to overcam a mild 305..

 

Good moderate mid rise intakes for 305 with QJet or Edelbrock or holley carbs.
Weiand 8125 (55-86 heads)
Weiand 8126 ( late 87+ cast heads w angled center bolts.. (081-083-217 castings)

 

I agree with the two Comp Cam grinds mentioned here. They won't be "lopey", but will run the best in the RPM range that the rest of the components are designed for. I wouldn't waste my time with the Melling, as it is not all that much different from the stock cam...

 

What would be the difference in the two comp cams? Do these cams apply to the lb9 as well? I wasnt sure if yall were responding to the O.P. or me. I have spent hours upon hours researching the right cam for a mild build 305.

 

They both make good low-RPM and midrange power & torque, produce good vacuum, and a fairly smooth idle. One makes more power than the other but at a higher RPM, which is where gears and a looser converter come in handy...

 

THANK YOU! So i have an 88 gta. My rpo code tells me i have a 3:08 gear. I drive it on the weekends and have no intention running it on a drag strip. I woukd like to have a bit more fun stop light to stop light. I just ordered headers and y pipe. Gmmg exhaust. Plan to port and polish stock heads and intake. And get it tuned by Tuned Performance. If you were to pick a cam for that setup, which one would you go for? Im not against different gears or converters but i also dont wanna tach 3.5 or 4 grand trying to drive down the interstate.

 

Here's the Crane 2032 cam card, if it helps you in finding a similar item.

 

​​​​​​Wonderful information. I'm mostly curious about what you said regarding the edelbrock carb. You're saying that the issue you came across was the secondaries opening to soon creating a lean big at lower rpm? I do notice that when I give it what juice it has it doesnt pick up untill higher rpm. Would this be the cause?

 

Most likely the cause. You can drive through it. By that I mean step on it enough that you only open the primaries up until about 3,000 rpm then give it the juice. That being said unless you manually shift your 700r4 down it does nothing for the flat spot cruising 2,000 rpm when you hammer down to pass a car on like a 2 lane road. Holley double pumpers are kind of the same in that respect. Drove my 97 Express van with a 650 cfm Holley spreadbore double pumper for almost a year. Even with a converter stalling almost 2,800 rpm and a healthy 350 vortec it would bog if you got into the secondaries without first getting the rpm up. Took some modification of driving technique to get it to accelerate strongly through the whole powerband. A properly dialed in Q-Jet on the otherhand you can stab the throttle at any rpm and in any gear and it just goes. The secondaries are seamless in operation. It just pulls! When yhe transmission downshifts it pulls harder. I saw as much as 30 ft/lbs more torque at the wheels from a relatively mild 305 with the Q-Jet down in the 2,000-2,500 rpm range.

I had a Crane 274H06 in my G20 van back 15+ years ago. Ran very strong. Also had a 305 Vortec in my 99 Tahoe more recently with a Lunati High Efficiency 268 cam. Both ran strong for what they were and got good fuel mileage. 80-85 mph effortlessly down the highway with the a/c on.

 

I have run the GM bowtie spreadbore intake on 87+ heads. Kind of like the old Z/28 or LT-1 manifold but with a Q-Jet flange. Came on alot of boats, crate engines and some canadian performance vehicles like the monte carlo ss.

My go to manifold for 86 down heads is usually the 7101 for square bore carbs or the 7104 for spreadbore carbs. Works well even on a 305.

Also back when I still had to pass smog in the early 2000s, ran a Weiand 7525 with a Q-Jet on top of my 305 in my G20. Had provisions for EGR and passed smog with flying colors. It was a very responsive manifold and made great power. Too bad it has been discontinued for more than 10 years and hard to find.

 

Hmm. I feel like the problem wouldn't be so bad if the 700r4 shifted later In the rpm. Unless I manually shift it, the thing wants to grab the next gear right when the motor wants to wake up. I'll be 10-15mph and it'll be in second. If I cruise at 30 it'll be in 3rd at super low rpm. Punch it and it'll just slowly pickup till about 3-4k when it wakes up. It doesn't seem to downshift at all when I punch it. Just stays in it's gear and says eh we'll get there. Maybe my tv cable is adjusted wrong.

 

You need the TV correction aka cruise control bracket Edelbrock makes for the performer series carb. You kickdown cable geometry is wrong without it and you will smoke that 700r4 in a short time. AKA park it until you fix it. Also seen 700r4s with worn out TV plunger springs aka short spring syndrome. Get a tv correction bracket and a stronger tv spring in there asap. With the stock 2.73 gearing at 20-25 mph it should kickdown to 1st if you floor it. In my old G20 van that had a factory governer calibrated for a ~5,200 rpm WOT shift and 3.08 gears it would kick down at 35 mph to 1st. TV cable controls not only the kickdown but the part-throttle shift points as well as the line pressure. Low line pressure = slippage and burned clutches.

 

So. You're going to laugh at this one. I gotta get to work and right now till my arm heals and I can ride again this is the mode of transportation. I noticed the brackets objective was to sit further back because the location at the carb is further back. So I pressed the spring load pulled the tv cable put a zip tie on the end and then pulled everything back. At WOT it pulled out the tv adjustment a little under a quarter inch. It was shifting a bit rough so a buddy advised me to press the spring load and pull It out manually two clicks. Shifts are smooth as butler but arf to early.

 

Properly setup 700r4 should have a fairly beefy shift, especially 1-2. My 83 G20 100% stock would cause the tires to have a slight chirp going into 2nd at fairly light throttle. Buttery smooth means your clutches are slipping.

 

......no **** damn. Guess I was given the wrong info. When I initially set it up the 1-2 would chirp the tires. Im a stick guy I don't like automagics so I only know what the modern small cars feel like. I'll have to go and change it back to that. I was worried I was hurting the trans.

 

If you are not using OEM cruise control you can get this.

https://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/8026/10002/-1

 

If you still have the OEM cruise control and want it to function correctly, this is what you need. Fixes both the radius on the cruise control and the TV cable geometry. Had this one on my old 83 G20 van. Both the cruise and the transmission operated the same way they did from the factory when I ran a 1405 years ago. Factory cruise servo could pull it into the secondaries and force a downshift to 2nd gear on long steep grades if needed to maintain 70 mph.


​​​​​https://www.summitracing.com/parts/e...8aAiyLEALw_wcB

 

Disregard this. It has a 3.27 Gear in it. I'm thinking this cam would be the one you were talking about that had more HP? https://www.compcams.com/xtreme-4x4-...oller-sbc.html

 

I would just try to find some 305ho 416 heads and those can handle about 460 lift so that will give you a nice sound and maybe an edelbrock performer intake and headers that should be a pretty good setup for a nice fun weekend cruiser and for cheape maybe 500$ for all of it



i am a fellow 305 owner as well 👍

 

Ended up putting a set of hooker 2460s on it. Scored them for half the new price and they're damn near brand new. Took it to the local exhaust people and had them make it up. Put it out the passenger side right in front the tire. I like the look. Sounds ok too. Next is the rear end. Something with posi or limited slip with 3.23 gears out of a 4th gen. Then I'll do a intake/cam combo.

 

nice man I’m going to run 4:11s 😂 gonna be rough on the street but I do have an overdrive trans so it shouldn’t be too bad and I’m building a 350 Ik you said you didn’t want to buy it’s not as expensive as you would think if you can find a good deal on one and you can use all your same parts as I’m sure you know that’s what I am doing taking my 305 parts and swapping them to my 350 like how often on the forums people are like don’t put money into the 305 and so on but I mean why does it matter the parts are interchangeable so you could buy a 350 and swap it over easily whenever you have the time and money if you get what I’m saying

 

Eventually it will have a 350 in it. But the ****** has a solid 30k on it. Why strip out a perfectly good motor. Make the motor have a bit of pep. Then work on everything else. Get the interior done the rear end swapped ect. Then I'll go to my pick n pull. Snag a 350 for under 300. Do bearings, rings and head gaskets. Slap a cam in it and call it a day. The goal is budget 305 power. It can be done. You can get a solid 300hp out of them with a decent torque curve. I know the 350 guys are laughing in 400+ HP at that number. But geared right 300hp isn't a slouch.

 

I'm following your build as you and I are paddling the same boat. I have an LB9 305 with 57,xxx on it. I want to keep the numbers matching on the car and do some mild upgrades just to have a little more fun with it. Choosing the cam seems to be the most difficult thing. I have scoured the internet for HOURS researching this. The two comp cams that were posted by T.L. seem to be promising though.

 

This is the cam I've had my eyes on so far.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...make/chevrolet
but I'll be doing a rear swap first. Limited slip/posi with 3.23 gears from a 4th gen. I ended up finding a set of hooker 2460s for 100 almost new. 160 to make a y pipe for them. I'll find a way to post a video of it for you. Keep in mind I'm doing this budget friendly so it doesn't look the best and it's a bit low to the ground but I haven't scraped it yet. I had them put it out the passenger side right behind the door right in front the tire. So when I go to swap the rear I don't have anything in my way. I personally love it but to each their own.

Also don't let the 350 guys get you down. I could easily go to a pick n pull and put a 350 in it for a few hundred. But the 305 has 30xxx on it. No point in not using a perfectly fine motor I'm not chasing quarter mile. And both of them will burn some rubber for fun.
​​​​

 

Sweet. I bought the flowtech 16102flt headers and y pipe. gmmg exhaust. Neither have been installed yet as im trying to do all my upgrades at one time. They say porting and polishing heads/intake will help quite a bit so i plan on that and then adding cam/exhaust while it is being put back together.

Do you have the 081 heads? From what i gather thats what should have come stock on mine. Im concerned about getting a cam that has more lift than what the stock heads will support.