Not certain which heads I have. I plan to either get the aluminum l98 heads or get some vortec truck heads milled down. Or maybe just have my head's gone through who knows. And a personal recommendation is to do your mods one at a time. I find that doing things that way is easier for trouble shooting. Put the exhaust on. See if you have any problems. Put the heads/intake on. See if problem and so on and so forth. Would hate to do it all and not be able to drive because my carbs to small or I need a higher stall converter. Also makes tuning easier in my eyes. Who knows. Maybe after an intake, exhaust, carb and rear end. I might just be satisfied enough to skip the cam.

 

Good point on doing them one at a time. sold. I will go ahead and get the exhaust done as i have those.

 

Be wary of tuning too. If you're carbed. You're good bit Eprom than find yourself a tuner first.

 

That's a HUGE cam for a 305 engine. something along the lines of 220 int and exh duration would be better. An S10 torque converter would work well also. I ran one on my 305 and it gave it 2300-2400 stall.

 

I have a buddy who ran that cam when racing his 305. The plan is to run it till I decided to run a 350 and put it in the 350. If I don't like it just swap it back and wait till I decide to run a 350 lol

 

An LT4 Hotcam cam would be a strong runner in a 305, comp 268 would be also.

 

A huge cam for a 305.. You will want not less than 4.10''s not less than 10:1 cr and not less than a 4000 stall custom lock up 245mm (9.5") high stall.
When installing that cam advance it to a 105 intake C/L for a hot 305.. It has no power beliw 4000 rpm in a 305.. Needs fully ported heads.
Needs 1-⅝ long tube headers and 2-½" dual ex
or 2-½ into 1 big 3-½ big mouth exhaust.

Better with a 5 speed manual trans and gears.
You're not going to like this cam in a stock 305
with stock converter and gears w auto trans.
Pick a milder duration choice.

 

Thumpr Camshafts are the hottest cams to hit the streets in more than a decade. That's because they give you the big cam sound you're looking for, without the drawbacks. Applying a camshaft design originally created for sports car endurance racing, they incorporate early exhaust valve opening, long exhaust duration, and a generous amount of intake and exhaust overlap. Best of all, Thumprs will not negatively impact power output or streetability.
Features:

• Three unique cam designs for each application that deliver excellent horsepower gains and broad torque curve; perfect choice for muscle cars and street rods
• Early intake valve opening and long exhaust duration create optimum overlap for powerful, hard-hitting exhaust note
• Best with aftermarket converters and more rear gear

JEGS even has a kit with a gear drive included: https://www.jegs.com/i/COMP-Cams/249...600-4/10002/-1

 

I find it hard to believe it would work with power brakes. And it will still be a dog on the low-end. I suppose it really depends on what the car is being used for. I just wonder what their idea of "streetability" is...

 

I linked the Thumpr line because it appears that Caleb has his mind set on that big cam sound - nothing else.
From his 1st post - The wife likes the lopey idle sound so that's what I'm shooting for.
It appears that he is going to have to make the same mistake that we all have made when we were young and knew everything.
Regardless of how this turns out - he will learn something.

 

True statement. Been there, done that.

 

I don't really plan on putting 350 heads on it. But I am curious. What heads and why? Wouldn't the valves interfere with the block?

 

1.94 valves clear fine. My friend David Kaffung has fast burns with 2.00" valves on his 305 he competed in engine masters with. Very slight notch at the top of the bores. That being said either 113s off a ZZ3 or ZZ4 or 059 Vortecs would be the best factory heads.

 

So if I were to go to a pick a part and find 059 heads aside a vortec intake, just mill them down to CC the bowl? Interesting. I thought the bolt pattern was different.

 

059s already have a ~58cc chamber. The intake bolt pattern is different and the runners are raised. Need a vortec intake to match them. On the plus side they flow between 210 and 220 cfm out of the box. Enough to make over 400 hp on a 305. They flow better than a 2.02 double hump despite the 1.84 valves.

 

Note Caleb, in case you did not know...the 059 is a 305 Vortec head (RPO L30), not a 350 Vortec head (RPO L31).

For a lot of folks, as soon as they hear the word Vortec, they think of the L31. Many don't even know a 305 version existed.

 

Huh. Learn something new every day. Atleast me being mostly a motorcycle guy trying to build a car... I learn many things every day.

What about 416 heads? I hear they're easy to come across and flow better than my 187 heads. I can do some porting. I don't believe in polishing unless you're trying to squeeze the living breath out of a head for racing when money is on the line. But if I junk yard digged some 416 heads. New seals. Minor port just to clean up the heads for a bit of flow. Intake match. Thoughts?

 

416 is a good head it flows about the same as an old double hump head and has 1.84 valves and 58cc chambers they can run up to about 440-445 lift cam

 

Throw some beehive springs or honeycomb or whatever the hell they're called. Recon a guy could get a little over 5 on the lift. My local yard doesn't charge much for heads. Might do that.

 

.

Look, this has been beat to death for 30+ years. You won't make big power on a 305 and anything that 305 is doing a 350 or 383 will do better with the same components. So, DO NOT DO ANYTHING TO THE ENGINE. It's a fools game on the 305. Like many others, I did this too back 20 some years ago with a 305 TPI. Had headers, SLP Cam, SLP intake runners, the other bolt ins (Air foil, Thermostat, chip, etc.). In the end, it was just lame. Eventually blew the 305 and put all that stuff on a 350 with 24# injectors and was much better off.

Do the things to the car that help it go faster without touchign the engine first. A converter and gear (3.42/3.45 depending on rear) will wake it up and make it feel like a completely different car. Do headers and exhaust... all this will work with a 350 later. Then enjoy. You will get more bang for your buck this way than if you change the cam alone.

 

let me refer you to I believe the second or so sentence In the first post on this topic I have made. " I'm not building a race car I'm building a nice Sunday morning take the wife and dog down to the beach cruiser that's got a little pep."

I am aware it's "been beaten to death for 30+ years" I am aware it isn't going to make power a 350 will. I am aware that I can get what I want from just dropping in a 350. As I have said before I don't want to do that. If you read all the posts I have made i already planned to put a 4th gen rear with 3.23 gears and posi/limited. I already have a full exhaust. Just because I inquire about heads or want to know what cam would work does not mean I do it. Which you would know if you read the forum. Who knows after the rear end I might just be happy with it. Or maybe I want to get heads and port them and slap a cam in. Why not? It's cheap and easy enough to do. Learn something in the process. Knowledge I can usd to build a better motor down the line maybe. The 305 has 30XXX miles on it. Why rip out a perfectly fine motor that done right can actually make a decent amount of power. If I wanted 3/4/500hp I would put a 350 in it. I have my reasons for keeping a 305. Example being I want my wife to drive it comfortably. She gets a damn 95 chevy 1500 4.3v6 with a nv3500 to spin wheels somehow. So if I put her behind 3/4/500hp she would be in a ditch. What's wrong with a mild 305. Why hate on it. It's built to be a reliable motor not a race motor. Put a little pep in it and have fun.

 

Then why did you ask if you are just going to do what you want to do anyway? I didn't need to read all of it, I read your question, this question appears every day on here, FB groups, and everywhere else Thirdgens are discussed. You just don't want to accept the answer... It is not worth it, it has been done, the results were disappointing. You do you man, if you just want to spend money to be busy instead of listening to some knowledge about where the money spent will have the greatest effect, well you do you man.

 

Note: 4416 heads have modest flow in stock form.

About 185 cfm.. LESS than old camel backs BUT once **generously ported**they flow MUCH BETTER.
(235-240 cfm with 1.94 valves.. Now you can make some power. L98 heads same same.
Flow and power is very limited in stock form.
Ref: L31 062-906 Vortec heads flow 228 cfm stock.

 

How am I not willing to accept the answer "it's not worth it" when I clearly just said that I know it won't make power. And I ask questions because I want answers. Alot of people here have given me great information. It's called learning. I ask what cam or intake because after I do the rear end I might want a bit more out of it and put a cam in. Get a different sound or maybe a little more power. I also happen to know some people who have built 305s In the past and ran great times in the quarter. Not an LS killer but something that's just fun and cheap to do. You're not willing to accept that there's enough power to have good ol fun with a 305.

 

I should also note I'm a motorcycle guy when it comes to motors. I'm a suspension guy on cars. I can do an alignment on damn near anything and make it drive straight. Lifted, lowered, bent parts, american and euro. It's my trade. I want to learn more about motors though. And I'm having plenty fun with this little ol 305. It's ten times slower than my 87 magna v65. And it's a boat compared to a leaf In size. But I'm making it run like hell. I've learned so much about timing and setting my own curve. About which way to tune these carbs for this motor. Maybe I want to learn about camshaft selection and actually feel the differences. Or intake differences. I'm not chasing a 1/4 mile. I'm having good ol fun. Once I know the ins and outs yeah I might have a buddy over a few six packs and drop a 350 in it. Down the line when I either blow up the motor or it's gets tired that is. I'm a kid trying to learn muscle car/ rat rod or whatever you want to call it. There aren't many 23 year old guys trying to learn about it. Atleast where I am there isn't. I saved an old car from going to the scrapper. It ain't the prettiest. It ain't the fastest. And that's ok. I'll have my fun. Go tell someone else what to do with their motor. Because you ain't telling me what to do with mine. I'll gladly take any useful advice though if you have anything other than throw a 350 in it. And again. Read through the forum. You'll find that I have plans for different things with the car. You've basically only read the first chapter of a book and tried to write an essay on it 😂 doesn't work well.

 

The 305s I have built never dissapointed me for power. All were well over 300 hp at the crank. My last 305 started life as a 300K mile L30. Rings/Bearings and a cam change. Headers, exhaust, cold air intake, tune and electric fans put down 280 whp in my Tahoe. Made enough power to destroy every piece of the driveline behind it. Broke multiple u-joints, ate the GM 8.5 10-bolt and broke hard parts in the 4L60E. 400+ HP and the torque that comes with it will kill the factory drivelines in these cars with ease.

 

If they never disappointed you than why say it's not worth it and throw a 350 in it.

 

If I said that, it was in regard to a presumed high mileage engine or someone that wanted to race their car. For a 350-400+ HP build a 350 or larger will be more streetable. For 300 hp and even up to about 350 hp a 305 can be setup to run well.

Also where have I even said that in your post? I think I may have said somewhere recently that a stock 350 vortec with a carb is in the 300-320 hp range but I don't recall saying throw your 305 away.

I went from a 305 to an 8.1 in my 99 Tahoe. Went from a 350 to a 383 in my Express van. I got the 8.1 cheap and wanted a big block. Smoked the 4L60E in the Tahoe and had an 4L80E laying around. Already had a 9.5" 10 bolt under the Tahoe. The 305/4L80E/3.42 gear and 33" tall P305/50R20s would have been a little lacking in the Tahoe especially with a 5,000 lbs trailer behind it. I hurt the POS mexican goodwrench L31 in my Express van or it would still have it in it.

 

Have you ordered and installed the TV correction bracket yet? If not I hope you are not driving your car. Its not a cable length problem rather a geometry problem and you will smoke that 700r4. Its either a $15-40 fix now or a couple of grand a little later. Its stupid to even drive that car much less do anything else without ordering and installing one of those brackets I linked you to above then properly adjusting the TV cable. The mere fact it shifts so early under throttle and does not downshift tells me you are smoking that transmission with every mile you drive it. Correct TV cable geometry is essential to the line pressure rise as you go from idle to part-throttle. No line pressure rise equals smoked clutches and a high dollar rebuild.

The objective of the bracket is not only to correct the location of the cable end relative to the carb but also the radius that the linkage pulls the cable from. By altering the starting point and the radius the cable is pulled more quickly at light throttle and less as toward higher throttle opening. Effects not only part-throttle shifting but line pressure rise as well.