How do you feel about the following quote:

"Virtually all spark plugs now feature a special anti-seizure nickel or zinc-chromate shell plating. Basically, you can think of the plating as a replacement of thread compound or copper slip."

JamesC

 

I use it...

 

I use a very small amount.
A few newer engines I've seen are prone to misfires if to much or any at all is used.

 

I always use a small amount of anti-seize on the threads being careful to avoid getting anything on the tapered seat. Can't say it makes a difference other than never having had a stuck spark plug or fouling due to contamination in the over 25 years since I got back into the hobby/sport.
That's on iron heads. It's especially important on aluminium heads.

 

I use anti-seize with aluminum heads for sure. I also use a torque wrench with plugs, unlike most people that over tighten....

 

I do not use anti-seize.

I use silicone dielectric grease.

Among other reasons, no danger of it getting loose and ending up on the ceramics.

 

 

So anti-seize over "special anti-seizure nickel or zinc-chromate shell plating"?

JamesC

 

It's sort of a belt and suspenders approach.

 

Sounds like the same coating U-joint caps have on them if used in aluminum driveshafts

 

Dry spark plugs don't go in my $4,500 heads.

 

That's a pretty big hammer Mr Q.
But for mere mortals, even my out of the box Vortecs got the treatment.

 

Ask anyone with a Ford Triton V-8 if antiseize compound on spark plug threads is a good idea or not. Those who say "not" have probably not had one long enough to change the heads yet (a common part of replacing spark plugs in those).

 

And I've seen the broken spark plugs that come out and the metal thickness at the failure point is about 0.015" or so, really thin. And it's disaster when it happens.

 

Not once, not ever, zero need, completely unnecessary, zero pro's, many con's.

 

I use it on mine, but I also use it on everything else so maybe I'm a bit biased. Cheap insurance IMO

 

To avoid over torquing with anti-seize, hints/advice would be useful for those who wish to use anti-seize without a torque wrench or where one is impossible to use.

JamesC

 

I have never over-torqued a sparkplug in my life...

 

Your experience should be invaluable. Please feel free to elaborate.

JamesC

 

I change plugs often enough to not need To worry about them seizing up lol never used anything but maybe a smear of wd40 or even oil on the plug lol. Never known any issues From it lol

 

Yes on A-S.

 

What sort of elaboration do you need? It should be common sense. I've been changing sparkplugs over a period of 35 years and never use a torque wrench (on some cars, there's no room to even get a torque wrench in there). I've never had one refuse to come out, never had one come loose by itself, and never pulled threads. It's a "feel" thing but not any special talent...

 

The use of anti seize notwithstanding, here's the torque low down from Champion.

https://www.championautoparts.com/Te...endations.html

Short story: Tapered seat is 1/16th turn past seated if not using a torque wrench.

 

That's a real answer somebody can use.

 

And how do you know how much a "sixteenth turn" is?
Honestly, a little past snug should never give you a problem...

 

Answer below.

 

In all seriousness though T.L. I know what you mean. I'm much the same way. I can't say I've ever used a torque wrench on a spark plug as access is difficult if often impossible (witness the 5/8" box end offset wrench required).
It's a matter of, as you say, feel.

 

A hex head has 6 sides, 60 degrees from corner to corner, or flat to flat.
1/16 of a turn is approximately 1/3 rotation from corner to corner, or flat to flat of the hex.

You can't tell me you didn't know this....

Saying it's EASY when people are asking HOW isn't an answer people can use.

 

Interesting comment I found on another auto board: " We used to index the plugs on small-block Chevys....it ensures that the plug`s electrode gap is facing the intake valve, giving maximum burn efficiency. You take a Sharpie and put a vertical stripe on the plug so it coincides with the gap. You then install the plug with thin shims, until you find the combination that ends up with the stripe pointed at the intake valve. It`s pretty much trial and error, takes awhile to get it just right."

And from a different guy, who lines up with above

"when Precision Tune put me through their in-house schooling, we were taught that engine and plug manufacturers coordinated to spec their threads in such a way that when the plug was torqued correctly, the electrode would be in the correct position for optimal combustion."

 

I stumbled on the diagram below recently (much like Skinny's post). That said, my 350 HO manual indicates 15 ft. lb. for the tapered plugs used in that engine. So with anti-seize, hand tight and snug up?

JamesC

 

Thats all i ever do, hand tight and a good snug turn with the wrench. 200 hp per cylinder never had an issue lol

 

Adding a lubricant will lower friction and lower the torque spec to tighten (will turn easier). Assume ~35% less torque and you'll be in the ball park. The torque-turns method is handy when you aren't sure what revised torque value to use with a lubricant.

It's a pretty large allowable range of [dry] torque, so you've got some wriggle room. LS1tech wisdom (however wise that may be) seems to converge on about 11 lb-ft wet with 14mm tapered plug. Main thing is just don't over tighten those suckers, especially in aluminum heads.

 

I recommend some sort of "Anti-Galling" Material for use with Aluminum.

I would rather have something come apart slightly more easily (even unintentionally)...
Than have something seize, and not come out.

There are several good reasons why the 12,000 HP Engine in a Dragster is not Bolted into the Frame.
The equivalent of ONLY 4 Hose-Clamps hold the Engine on the Frame-Rails.

This is done for many reasons, but must importantly...
It is to be able to separate the BOMB (Engine) from the Driver in an emergency/ Crash/ Explosion.

It is nearly always better to come out too easily, than be too difficult to remove most things.

 

I guess my point was that it just isn't all that critical. Just don't tighten the living p!ss out of it. Definitely use anti-seize with aluminum (I have used it in iron as well)...

 

Here's a good tutorial how to repair a buggered up spark plug thread.

 

This video is some kind of joke, right?

 

Sooo, that's pretty much what NOT to do....

And I'll repeat, don't put anti seize on spark plug threads. Completely unnecessary, unless you have an iron headed plow truck you plan on doing zero maintenance on. If plug breakage or thread galling was a problem, I would think I would have come across it at least once in the tens of thousands of plugs I have changed. It's not cheap insurance, because it has the potential to create other issues.

 

I seriously doubt it would ever cause any "issues" unless you're globbing it on there. A tiny bit is sufficient, and it's necessary on aluminum heads...

 

This one is much better.

 

Wow...

 

For anyone that needs to use "Anti-Seize" for an appropriate application...

The smallest amount possible should be used...
It will spread substantially, usually more than you want it to.

 

I laughed my *** off!

Thank you!

 

And here's a good instructional video about torque wrenches.

 

That's how you get this. Whether it would've helped this ones predicament or not will never be known.
I'm not pro nor con anti seize. I've done both. I've never had a problem with plugs I've installed. It's the ones that other animals have wrenched in there.

 

I was pleasantly surprised when he calibrated that

 

Wow. This thread sure gained a lot of traction.
Educational too...

 

Alright, I know this is off topic but I started to cry I laughed so hard.

 

Identical

 

Crap...

 

Video unavailable