Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
#51
Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
It is a beautiful new fuel line. Questions of the day!! Been looking for the dwell meter connector. I'll post a pic below, to what I think maybe the connector. The Haynes manual says dwell meter connector is a green single wire connector (have not yet found it in FSM).. In the pic below, you will hopefully see that it is a green connector, with what looks like two blue wires. Can someone confirm this is or isn't the Dwellmeter connector.
Also. we have been doing some wire maintenance (covering wires with wire protection sleeves), and so had disconnected the negative terminal of the battery. When we went to reconnect the battery we had some sparking. Not a lot, but some. Looked at the the connections and saw a ground wire that goes into bottom of negative battery cable, that looks like it may be showing bare wires. Wondering if I should be concerned with this. Below is a pic.
Dwellmeter connector? Located all the way left on pass. side near firewall.
Up close looks like bare wire strands. Should I be concerned about this?
Also. we have been doing some wire maintenance (covering wires with wire protection sleeves), and so had disconnected the negative terminal of the battery. When we went to reconnect the battery we had some sparking. Not a lot, but some. Looked at the the connections and saw a ground wire that goes into bottom of negative battery cable, that looks like it may be showing bare wires. Wondering if I should be concerned with this. Below is a pic.
Dwellmeter connector? Located all the way left on pass. side near firewall.
Up close looks like bare wire strands. Should I be concerned about this?
#52
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Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
That is indeed the MCS wire, aka dwell meter connection. If you look at it closely you'll notice that the 2 wires go to the same pin. They're the same wire, electrically. One wire comes from the ECM out of the fender well; the other goes to the carb. It just stops off there to make the user connection in that green shell.
Bare strands on a ground wire aren't much of a cause for concern; after all, the entire chassis is the same, electrically, and it's all bare. That said, if there are bare strands on a wire, then either it's chafed, or broken, or something, and needs repair. Note also that a small spark when hooking the batt cable back up, esp after a long (hours) disconnection, is completely normal. Esp if a door is open or something like that.
Bare strands on a ground wire aren't much of a cause for concern; after all, the entire chassis is the same, electrically, and it's all bare. That said, if there are bare strands on a wire, then either it's chafed, or broken, or something, and needs repair. Note also that a small spark when hooking the batt cable back up, esp after a long (hours) disconnection, is completely normal. Esp if a door is open or something like that.
#53
Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
Just a quick post today. I just wanted to say how cool (think I just dated myself) this site is. Two months ago we didn't know the difference between a MAP and a Baro, certainly didn't know to be careful with the length of the intake manifold bolts, or that we should plug up a hole on the front of the motor from the smog pump being removed (sure enough, looked today and it has been leaking oil there). Around here it is hard to even find a mechanic that will work on a carbureted car, let alone a good one. This site has been invaluable. To be able to ask someone to identify a part, or have someone explain in plain terms the workings of an EGR system, or where to look for the missing smog pump has helped us tremendously. Thank you all so much. I raise my glass to you all. Happy New Year!
Thought you might be interested to see--below is pic of my car in 2014, before I sold it, and then later bought it back. This is where we are hoping to get back to. Will be back with more questions in a couple of days. TO THIRD GEN
Thought you might be interested to see--below is pic of my car in 2014, before I sold it, and then later bought it back. This is where we are hoping to get back to. Will be back with more questions in a couple of days. TO THIRD GEN
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NoEmissions84TA (01-07-2022)
#54
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Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
Wow, that's a great-looking car.
Yes, this site is been invaluable for me as well. Between this forum and videos on YouTube, I've learned a lot, and I don't think I could have put my car together without those resources...
Yes, this site is been invaluable for me as well. Between this forum and videos on YouTube, I've learned a lot, and I don't think I could have put my car together without those resources...
#55
Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
Just a couple of quick basic (hopefully not stupid) questions. I am looking at getting the hoses for the vac lines to carb, vac lines from and to canister purge valve (the one sitting about six inches away from the canister), hoses for the PCV valve and breather line, hoses for the EGR valve and hoses canister purge TVS (the one on the intake manifold). Are all of these hoses just regular rubber hoses, fuel emission hoses, pcv hose...Been looking at Rock Auto and see no distinction of hoses. If I go to Auto Zone, their website has "fuel and emissions hose, PCV hose and Prestone Fuel Emissions hose. Can someone educate me on hoses..
Also, on Rock Auto they list a hose size and then in parentheses list a smaller nipple size. Is this how I should buy all hoses, ie, smaller than the nipple it is going to, and how much smaller.
Finally, I am thinking I buy hose sizes based on inside diameter-correct?
Also, on Rock Auto they list a hose size and then in parentheses list a smaller nipple size. Is this how I should buy all hoses, ie, smaller than the nipple it is going to, and how much smaller.
Finally, I am thinking I buy hose sizes based on inside diameter-correct?
#56
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Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
inside diameter (ID)
may be best to go to AZ, or one of the equivalents, and pick the hoses you want from the place where they're hanging on the wall. you can bring a piece of your old ones in to compare.
the evap (big one), breather and pcv are the only ones that require fuel/emissions hose because they can move petroleum liquids and vapor.
the other's just transmit a vacuum signal.
may be best to go to AZ, or one of the equivalents, and pick the hoses you want from the place where they're hanging on the wall. you can bring a piece of your old ones in to compare.
the evap (big one), breather and pcv are the only ones that require fuel/emissions hose because they can move petroleum liquids and vapor.
the other's just transmit a vacuum signal.
#58
Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
Been reading some third gen posts on removing the stock qjet and putting on an edelbrock (as you all know, I am going the other way). Anyhow, I see a lot of talk about the torque converter lock-up. I take from that reading, that bc the Edelbrock has been on my car, it has not had torque converter lock-up. So the question is, once the qjet goes back on, will the torque converter lockup work automatically, or is there something that needs to be done?? Certainly wouldn't mind a brief explanation as to what torque converter lock-up is???
Also, I had posted a picture of my distributor above, and have been told it looks like the computer controlled distributor is still there. Have been through my repair invoices and the only thing my mechanic did with the distributor (per the repair invoices) was to replace the distributor cap and installed a new rotor kit. So, again the question is, once I put back the qjet, is there anything that needs to be done with the distributor.
Finally, just want to make sure-----the breather line on the passenger side valve cover---does that hose go straight from the pcv filter in the air cleaner into the breather grommet or is there some other fitting or something that holds the hose in the breather grommet. Also anyone know whether I need the slanted breather grommet, or just a regular one. As always, thanks for the help.
Also, I had posted a picture of my distributor above, and have been told it looks like the computer controlled distributor is still there. Have been through my repair invoices and the only thing my mechanic did with the distributor (per the repair invoices) was to replace the distributor cap and installed a new rotor kit. So, again the question is, once I put back the qjet, is there anything that needs to be done with the distributor.
Finally, just want to make sure-----the breather line on the passenger side valve cover---does that hose go straight from the pcv filter in the air cleaner into the breather grommet or is there some other fitting or something that holds the hose in the breather grommet. Also anyone know whether I need the slanted breather grommet, or just a regular one. As always, thanks for the help.
#59
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Car: 92 Firebird, 77 Trans Am SE, 86 Z28
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Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
Lock up is where the parts of the converter 'lock' so they spin at the same speed. Think of a converter like a tiny boat or bowl floating in your sink. Spin your finger in the water around it and the boat spins with it but not at the same speed. That's what a torque converter is doing in its simplest terms. Lock up is you now touching the edge of the bowl and still spinning around, making your finger and boat at the same speed.
It locks up when you're in drive 3rd gear (or overdrive 4th gear) and at full cruise. Better fuel mileage, less transmission heat among some other benefits.
Your car's lock up was actuated by the ecm. With an edelbrock carb, the ecm wasn't doing much if anything. The ecm wasn't getting the throttle position reading like it did with the original carb so it can't put the torque converter into lock up.
Properly adjusted tv cable and all working factory components and you'll be back to normal lock up use.
Your distributor just needs its connectors hooked up. If the timing is wrong, then we'll cross that bridge when you get there.
Pcv filter tube can go straight to the valve cover grommet. My 77 is literally just a metal tube from the filter to the valve cover.
It locks up when you're in drive 3rd gear (or overdrive 4th gear) and at full cruise. Better fuel mileage, less transmission heat among some other benefits.
Your car's lock up was actuated by the ecm. With an edelbrock carb, the ecm wasn't doing much if anything. The ecm wasn't getting the throttle position reading like it did with the original carb so it can't put the torque converter into lock up.
Properly adjusted tv cable and all working factory components and you'll be back to normal lock up use.
Your distributor just needs its connectors hooked up. If the timing is wrong, then we'll cross that bridge when you get there.
Pcv filter tube can go straight to the valve cover grommet. My 77 is literally just a metal tube from the filter to the valve cover.
Last edited by aliceempire; 01-06-2022 at 12:01 PM.
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Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
Finally, just want to make sure-----the breather line on the passenger side valve cover---does that hose go straight from the pcv filter in the air cleaner into the breather grommet or is there some other fitting or something that holds the hose in the breather grommet. Also anyone know whether I need the slanted breather grommet, or just a regular one. As always, thanks for the help.
#61
Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
Thanks for the responses. Great explanation of torque converter lockup aliceempire, and really appreciated the pic gt4373. That helped--I was like metal line---what??? So, can you tell me where you got that--I cannot find anything like it. Also, can you you hose as an alternative?
#62
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Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
I'll dig through and look for the breather line for you.
Last edited by naf; 01-07-2022 at 08:09 AM.
#64
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Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
A regular piece of heater hose won't cut it; it will collapse from being bent so tight.
However, if you can find or make a "L" fitting for it, you could then use regular heater hose. I'd expect you could find something in the plumbing dept of your local home improvement store. Maybe in the PEX stuff.
However, if you can find or make a "L" fitting for it, you could then use regular heater hose. I'd expect you could find something in the plumbing dept of your local home improvement store. Maybe in the PEX stuff.
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Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
I'll bet that one of the guys here who part out thirdgens has that breather pipe you need...
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NoEmissions84TA (01-07-2022)
#66
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Car: 84 TA orig. 305 LG4 "H" E4ME
Engine: 334 SBC - stroked 305 M4ME Q-Jet
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Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
CindyL, all you have to pass is the sniff test? At idle only, or does the car get run on the rollers?
Do the inspectors plug into the ALDL connector?
Or look under the hood for each and every emissions component to be there and functioning?
The answers to these questions will determine what components MUST be connected to pass, and which can be left out.
Do the inspectors plug into the ALDL connector?
Or look under the hood for each and every emissions component to be there and functioning?
The answers to these questions will determine what components MUST be connected to pass, and which can be left out.
#67
Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
Here, they do the sniff test with 2 speeds (low and high RPM in Park). Last time it went through (2021) they did not connect to the ALDL or look under the hood (two years ago, I can't can't remember if they did or not, but thinking they didn't).
#68
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Car: 84 TA orig. 305 LG4 "H" E4ME
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Axle/Gears: 10bolt 4.10 Posi w Lakewood TA Bars
Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
Just testing for HC and CO, or NOX also?
#70
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Car: 84 TA orig. 305 LG4 "H" E4ME
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Transmission: upgraded 700R4 3200 stall
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 4.10 Posi w Lakewood TA Bars
Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
I am assuming that you are keeping the headers. Therefore EFE is gone. And you don't need the air pump.
You don't need that to pass emissions anyways. Your engine compartment will be cleaner and easier to work on.
Here is the same diagram with EFE removed:
You don't need that to pass emissions anyways. Your engine compartment will be cleaner and easier to work on.
Here is the same diagram with EFE removed:
#71
Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
They just test HC and CO. Planning to keep the headers (aftermarket) for now, but at some point want to change the headers (they just look like a pile of rust) and the exhaust (backyard mechanic chop job). That will be another lots of reading and learning experience. I do have the hose routing diagram still on the car. Thanks for any thoughts.
#72
Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
I was looking at my hose routing diagram (pic below) and my new canister control valve. I thought I knew where all lines went, but now a little unsure about one. My canister control valve has 4 ports.
The bottom port says "Can/TVS". Per the hose diagram the hose goes from the charcoal canister to this bottom port.
The second from the bottom port on the CCV says "carb bowl" and this line goes from this port on the CCV to the "T" port on carburetor with a check valve in between (can someone confirm this is just a simple like $3.00 check valve).
The third from bottom port (or second from top) on the CCV says "PCV". This is what got me confused. Although it says "PCV" on the CCV it appears from the diagram that the hose from this CCV port goes to the "K" port on the carb, with the hose from the tank pressure control valve teeing into to that hose in between. Confused bc the CCV says "PCV" but does not go to PCV per the diagram. Can someone please un-confuse me?
Just to finish, the top port on the CCV does not say anything, but from the diagram it goes from the purge TVS on manifold and then back out of TVS to the "H" port on carb, and the PCV valve hose goes straight from the PCV valve to the "L" port on carb.
Also, as you all know the EFE system is gone, so no need to think about those lines.
The bottom port says "Can/TVS". Per the hose diagram the hose goes from the charcoal canister to this bottom port.
The second from the bottom port on the CCV says "carb bowl" and this line goes from this port on the CCV to the "T" port on carburetor with a check valve in between (can someone confirm this is just a simple like $3.00 check valve).
The third from bottom port (or second from top) on the CCV says "PCV". This is what got me confused. Although it says "PCV" on the CCV it appears from the diagram that the hose from this CCV port goes to the "K" port on the carb, with the hose from the tank pressure control valve teeing into to that hose in between. Confused bc the CCV says "PCV" but does not go to PCV per the diagram. Can someone please un-confuse me?
Just to finish, the top port on the CCV does not say anything, but from the diagram it goes from the purge TVS on manifold and then back out of TVS to the "H" port on carb, and the PCV valve hose goes straight from the PCV valve to the "L" port on carb.
Also, as you all know the EFE system is gone, so no need to think about those lines.
#73
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Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
You are right CindyL, and it is confusing.
Here is what I can tell you:
Top - H - control vacuum.
2nd down - PCV - goes to K. L can be used also.
3rd down - carb bowl - goes to T.
Bottom - Can/TVS - to canister.
I have an 84 T/A and will be going to a MANUAL Quadrajet with no ECM and vacuum advance distributor.
I hope this doesn't confuse you, but here is the diagram I came up with for mine and it does match the way that your CCV is labelled.
Here is what I can tell you:
Top - H - control vacuum.
2nd down - PCV - goes to K. L can be used also.
3rd down - carb bowl - goes to T.
Bottom - Can/TVS - to canister.
I have an 84 T/A and will be going to a MANUAL Quadrajet with no ECM and vacuum advance distributor.
I hope this doesn't confuse you, but here is the diagram I came up with for mine and it does match the way that your CCV is labelled.
Last edited by NoEmissions84TA; 01-08-2022 at 07:33 PM.
#74
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Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
The carb actually has those letters cast into it, right next to the hose connections. Makes it AHELLUVALOT eeeeeezier. Look closely.
#75
Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
sofakingdom, sorry, I think my confusion led to a confusing post. I do know letters are stamped on the carburetor. What confused me was that the third from bottom port (or second from top) on the CCV says "PCV", but according to the hose routing diagram it doesn't come from or go to the PCV. Instead, according to routing diagram it goes from that port on the CCV to the K port on carb, with a hose from the canister purge valve teeing into the line btw the CCV and the carb. Just wanted to make sure I was reading the diagram correctly. Or I suppose I could have the wrong CCV.
But, while on the subject, I have been curious as to why those letters. That is why "J" for EGR-you would think it would be an "E". Why "N" for the vac sensor?.....
While I am it, also on the carb there is this grid pattern, with the letters A through N, on the left, To the right of each letter are three grid boxes with punch marks. Some letters have one punch marks, some have two, some have none. What is this. Are the punch marks denoting the number of ports marked with each of the letters..
But, while on the subject, I have been curious as to why those letters. That is why "J" for EGR-you would think it would be an "E". Why "N" for the vac sensor?.....
While I am it, also on the carb there is this grid pattern, with the letters A through N, on the left, To the right of each letter are three grid boxes with punch marks. Some letters have one punch marks, some have two, some have none. What is this. Are the punch marks denoting the number of ports marked with each of the letters..
#76
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Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
to the first question
all ccc-qjets do not have the same vacuum ports. on some of them the PCV and cannister share the same port with a tee fitting.
all ccc-qjets do not have the same vacuum ports. on some of them the PCV and cannister share the same port with a tee fitting.
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Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
No idea why the letters don't "stand for" their function, beyond that, if they did, and another function were to be introduced with the same initial, that the system would instantly become broken.
AFAIK the markings in those grid areas are for things like the particular mold cavity that was used, the shift during which it was cast, etc. Bookkeeping type things. Nothing particularly related to functionality.
Be aware also, NoE's diagram up there is for M4ME, not E4ME. You have the E (Electronic) version of the 4M (QuadraJet) with E (electric) choke, not the M ("Modified"... 70s emissions version) of model 4M w electric choke. That diagram isn't the same as for your car.
For yours, H is the ported vac source (about 3/16" hose, down low on the front, right in front of the center of the driver's side bore next to the TPS connector); pretty sure K is the carb bowl vent, is a 3/8" (big) fitting, and has no check valve; can't remember what T is but I think it's a small fitting in the throttle plate on the driver's side; L is the 3/8" fitting for the PCV in the throttle plate.
Here's my carb and vac diag. Yours is virtually identical except for the dual snorkel air cleaner. B is at the top pass side of the fuel bowl and has that little curved line in this pic: don't ask me why the factory left the vac diaphragm for choke pulloff and secondary opening timing off of their diagram, just goes to show that even their own diagrams aren't always 100% dependable. J is down near the bottom straight below it. K is front and center top of the carb, right above the fuel filter.
AFAIK the markings in those grid areas are for things like the particular mold cavity that was used, the shift during which it was cast, etc. Bookkeeping type things. Nothing particularly related to functionality.
Be aware also, NoE's diagram up there is for M4ME, not E4ME. You have the E (Electronic) version of the 4M (QuadraJet) with E (electric) choke, not the M ("Modified"... 70s emissions version) of model 4M w electric choke. That diagram isn't the same as for your car.
For yours, H is the ported vac source (about 3/16" hose, down low on the front, right in front of the center of the driver's side bore next to the TPS connector); pretty sure K is the carb bowl vent, is a 3/8" (big) fitting, and has no check valve; can't remember what T is but I think it's a small fitting in the throttle plate on the driver's side; L is the 3/8" fitting for the PCV in the throttle plate.
Here's my carb and vac diag. Yours is virtually identical except for the dual snorkel air cleaner. B is at the top pass side of the fuel bowl and has that little curved line in this pic: don't ask me why the factory left the vac diaphragm for choke pulloff and secondary opening timing off of their diagram, just goes to show that even their own diagrams aren't always 100% dependable. J is down near the bottom straight below it. K is front and center top of the carb, right above the fuel filter.
Last edited by sofakingdom; 01-10-2022 at 12:56 PM.
#78
Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
Thanks guys. Makes more sense now knowing there may be other applications that use PCV and canister together, and have always just wondered about the letters and grid thing.
On the ECM--I have a couple of questions. I have read several posts on here with people trying to diagnose problems. A lot of times they will replace several switches or valves, etc., only to later find out is was a blown ECM fuse or blown ECM. I recently pulled some some codes from mine (13 and 23). The question is, given that it put out codes, does that mean the ECM is working fine, and there is no need to question its functionality, or even whether it has a blown fuse.
Also, the Haynes Manual (as well as numerous posts on here) describe how to pull codes (the paperclip thing). Haynes says to put the key in ON position---not the Start position. Also says you can do carbureted models with engine running. So, when I pulled codes, I was unsure of where to put the key. Seems like once you turn key there is sort of like a free play area, and then a stop, and if you push past that stop, it cranks. So when I did it I tried pulling codes in that free play area, not on that first stop. Nothing happened. I didn't want to mess anything up so ended up pulling codes with car running. Can you tell me, if I want to pull codes with engine not running, do I go to that first stop (pretty sure I just wrote another confusing post). Do you know what I mean??
On the ECM--I have a couple of questions. I have read several posts on here with people trying to diagnose problems. A lot of times they will replace several switches or valves, etc., only to later find out is was a blown ECM fuse or blown ECM. I recently pulled some some codes from mine (13 and 23). The question is, given that it put out codes, does that mean the ECM is working fine, and there is no need to question its functionality, or even whether it has a blown fuse.
Also, the Haynes Manual (as well as numerous posts on here) describe how to pull codes (the paperclip thing). Haynes says to put the key in ON position---not the Start position. Also says you can do carbureted models with engine running. So, when I pulled codes, I was unsure of where to put the key. Seems like once you turn key there is sort of like a free play area, and then a stop, and if you push past that stop, it cranks. So when I did it I tried pulling codes in that free play area, not on that first stop. Nothing happened. I didn't want to mess anything up so ended up pulling codes with car running. Can you tell me, if I want to pull codes with engine not running, do I go to that first stop (pretty sure I just wrote another confusing post). Do you know what I mean??
#79
Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
Thanks guys. Makes more sense now knowing there may be other applications that use PCV and canister together, and have always just wondered about the letters and grid thing.
On the ECM--I have a couple of questions. I have read several posts on here with people trying to diagnose problems. A lot of times they will replace several switches or valves, etc., only to later find out is was a blown ECM fuse or blown ECM. I recently pulled some some codes from mine (13 and 23). The question is, given that it put out codes, does that mean the ECM is working fine, and there is no need to question its functionality, or even whether it has a blown fuse.
Also, the Haynes Manual (as well as numerous posts on here) describe how to pull codes (the paperclip thing). Haynes says to put the key in ON position---not the Start position. Also says you can do carbureted models with engine running. So, when I pulled codes, I was unsure of where to put the key. Seems like once you turn key there is sort of like a free play area, and then a stop, and if you push past that stop, it cranks. So when I did it I tried pulling codes in that free play area, not on that first stop. Nothing happened. I didn't want to mess anything up so ended up pulling codes with car running. Can you tell me, if I want to pull codes with engine not running, do I go to that first stop (pretty sure I just wrote another confusing post). Do you know what I mean??
On the ECM--I have a couple of questions. I have read several posts on here with people trying to diagnose problems. A lot of times they will replace several switches or valves, etc., only to later find out is was a blown ECM fuse or blown ECM. I recently pulled some some codes from mine (13 and 23). The question is, given that it put out codes, does that mean the ECM is working fine, and there is no need to question its functionality, or even whether it has a blown fuse.
Also, the Haynes Manual (as well as numerous posts on here) describe how to pull codes (the paperclip thing). Haynes says to put the key in ON position---not the Start position. Also says you can do carbureted models with engine running. So, when I pulled codes, I was unsure of where to put the key. Seems like once you turn key there is sort of like a free play area, and then a stop, and if you push past that stop, it cranks. So when I did it I tried pulling codes in that free play area, not on that first stop. Nothing happened. I didn't want to mess anything up so ended up pulling codes with car running. Can you tell me, if I want to pull codes with engine not running, do I go to that first stop (pretty sure I just wrote another confusing post). Do you know what I mean??
#80
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Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
you can get the codes either way, with the motor running or key in run, engine not running.
I also found the scoop and duct and the little PCV pipe. will box it and ship it out with the air cleaner assembly, hopefully tomorrow.
I'm not as quick with this stuff as I once was, stuff keeps coming up, but it needs to be out of the shed and you can't beat the price.
I also found the scoop and duct and the little PCV pipe. will box it and ship it out with the air cleaner assembly, hopefully tomorrow.
I'm not as quick with this stuff as I once was, stuff keeps coming up, but it needs to be out of the shed and you can't beat the price.
#81
Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
Like Christmas all over again! Great! Thanks ALOT! Let me know the cost and how to get it to you. Appreciate all the help you have been.
#82
Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
Thought I would take a few days to regroup. See what I have, see what I don't have, and whether I have any more questions.. Thought I would also see if I can wrap my brain around learning how to use a voltmeter. Sort of doubt, but I can at least try. The carb is still out being rebuilt--the guy is taking forever, so moving forward is on hold till at least then. If anyone has any thoughts on something I haven't mentioned, but would be important and useful info for the swap (back to original carb and intake manifold) or reinstalling or testing any emission components (remember I have no AIR system or EFE left) please let me know. I'll check back in next week. Thanks for all the help so far.
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Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
Thought I would take a few days to regroup. See what I have, see what I don't have, and whether I have any more questions.. Thought I would also see if I can wrap my brain around learning how to use a voltmeter. Sort of doubt, but I can at least try. The carb is still out being rebuilt--the guy is taking forever, so moving forward is on hold till at least then. If anyone has any thoughts on something I haven't mentioned, but would be important and useful info for the swap (back to original carb and intake manifold) or reinstalling or testing any emission components (remember I have no AIR system or EFE left) please let me know. I'll check back in next week. Thanks for all the help so far.
Using a volt meter is easy. YOU CAN DO IT!...
Last edited by T.L.; 01-13-2022 at 07:31 PM.
#84
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Car: 84 TA orig. 305 LG4 "H" E4ME
Engine: 334 SBC - stroked 305 M4ME Q-Jet
Transmission: upgraded 700R4 3200 stall
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 4.10 Posi w Lakewood TA Bars
Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
Did you get that TVS I showed you? I later realized that it is the one used for the '82-'84 models, and for some strange reason, they changed the vacuum hose configuration for the CCV in '85, which uses a smaller vacuum hose and therefore a TVS with smaller ports. I hope I didn't screw you up by recommending that TVS. I just knew it is what my car uses. Of course you can use the vacuum diagram that NoEmissions84TA posted (and it will work), but it won't match the diagram on your core support.
Using a volt meter is easy. YOU CAN DO IT!...
Using a volt meter is easy. YOU CAN DO IT!...
#85
Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
T.L. not a problem. Just to confirm, the oem for the TVS is 3031385-right?? So, if I can find one of those (have looked and looked and can't find one) or an equivalent from a different manufacturer, that would be the right part?? I did find a Carter PV-13, which I think is the Carter equivalent for the 3031385-right?? Anyway, thanks for the correction. Oh, I did learn yesterday that what I have is a multimeter--but couldn't even figure out how to test a AA battery. Lots more reading and learning to do!! This thing makes me nervous -SHOCK!!
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Car: '83 Firebird (T/A Clone)
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Transmission: 700R-4 w/2000 RPM stall converter
Axle/Gears: 10-bolt/3.73 ..
Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
T.L. not a problem. Just to confirm, the oem for the TVS is 3031385-right?? So, if I can find one of those (have looked and looked and can't find one) or an equivalent from a different manufacturer, that would be the right part?? I did find a Carter PV-13, which I think is the Carter equivalent for the 3031385-right?? Anyway, thanks for the correction. Oh, I did learn yesterday that what I have is a multimeter--but couldn't even figure out how to test a AA battery. Lots more reading and learning to do!! This thing makes me nervous -SHOCK!!
For the '85, it connects to the "H" port on the carb, which is substantially smaller, so it's a matter of getting a TVS with ports that size, and that closes at the correct temperature. Your other option is what I mentioned previously, which is to use the green TVS and use the '82-'84 vacuum line diagram...
#87
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Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
air cleaner assembly is on the way
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Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
If you use the nylon tubing and the rubber ends that you can get on cards in the parts stores, you can pick and choose the diameters at the fittings and make up whatever line you need. (within certain limits...) Unlike rubber hose which is the same at both ends as well as all the way down the middle.
#89
Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
naf, Below is a pic of the bracket I mentioned, and a second pic of what looks to be a second bracket that looks like it was cut off. The first bracket I thought might be a resting place for the snorkel or intake tube, then thought maybe it was for the stove pipe, and now have decided I don't know what it is. It is drivers side, bolted to the bottom of the valve cover (or rocker arm cover--is there a difference?). The second pic is what looks to be the remains of some hardware store-ish bracket bolted to the other end of the valve cover, and which appears to have been cut off. Can you tell me what they are for??
#90
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Car: 84 TA orig. 305 LG4 "H" E4ME
Engine: 334 SBC - stroked 305 M4ME Q-Jet
Transmission: upgraded 700R4 3200 stall
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 4.10 Posi w Lakewood TA Bars
Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
CindyL, are there any car shows near you (I know, not this time of year) that might have a stock 3rd gen of a similar year as yours? Go there with your camera and ask the owner if you can take pictures. Remember, a picture is worth 1000 words.
There must be youtube videos on how to use a multimeter.
Here is one:
There must be youtube videos on how to use a multimeter.
Here is one:
Last edited by NoEmissions84TA; 01-15-2022 at 06:44 PM.
#91
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Axle/Gears: 10-bolt/3.73 ..
Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
I don't recognize either of those brackets...
#92
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Car: 84 TA orig. 305 LG4 "H" E4ME
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Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
The bracket in the first pic looks familiar, but I don't remember what it does or holds.
That little tab in the second pic looks like something added to hold those spark plug wires.
That little tab in the second pic looks like something added to hold those spark plug wires.
#93
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Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
That bracket in the 1st picture is correct to this engine. It bolts down to the foward valve cover bolt. It's purpose is to allow that "cluster" of wires that are around it to be routed on top and lay in the channel to protect them from the exhaust manifold.
Joel
Joel
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#95
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Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
right, the temp sensor wire and the wire to the O2 sensor go through the little clamps on the bracket in the first pic.
the second bracket doesn't look to be factory, it may have been someone's attempt to hold the spark plugs up away from the headers. the factory routing was underneath, below the factory exhaust manifold.
do your headers have an O2 sensor bung? maybe in the y-pipe?
the second bracket doesn't look to be factory, it may have been someone's attempt to hold the spark plugs up away from the headers. the factory routing was underneath, below the factory exhaust manifold.
do your headers have an O2 sensor bung? maybe in the y-pipe?
#96
Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
So, none of my guesses were right. Joel was right. Yesterday I started looking through this parts catalogue I had downloaded a while back. JACKPOT!!! OEM numbers for every part, plus PARTS DIAGRAMS!!! Woohoo!! The description for that part was "Bracket, park plug wire". Same thing for the other cut off bracket (that one obviously not original to car). Watched the you tube video, and think I'll have to find one for the multimeter that I have, but learned a little. Thanks. Car show-good idea, and Sofakingdom, (nooby question) I thought there were a multitude of rubber connections for rubber hoses, where you change the diameter to make the connection (such as the MAP connector from the hose nipple on it to the little black hard vacuum line?? Can you explain? Yes, I do have an oxygen sensor bung, not sure whether the bracket to hold the wire up is there-keep meaning to check that.
#97
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Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
you can get a little pack of plastic vacuum line adapters hanging on a card stock at AZ or one of the others.
you may not be able to route the O2 sensor wire like the factory did. the factory ran it thru the little black clip on the end of that 1st pic bracket
you may not be able to route the O2 sensor wire like the factory did. the factory ran it thru the little black clip on the end of that 1st pic bracket
#98
Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
Well, I spent the last week re-grouping on my parts search, wiping down my engine bay, trying to clean up the original intake manifold (to be installed with original carb), watching videos on how to use a multimeter, and beginning to look at how to use my new vacuum gauge. Thinking it might be a good idea to try and start testing some components. I have read numerous posts on how to clean up the manifold. It has already had a chemical bath but still remains mostly back on top. Am now trying Simply green. Any suggestions would be welcome. Have learned a little about the multimeter, but the learning curve is slow. Will keep at that.
Anyhow, just a couple of quick questions.
Can anyone explain/describe, or maybe take a pic of how that wire support bracket is to be oriented. I know it bolts to front bolt on rocker cover, but mine has been bent all out of shape, and I'm not sure what it's correct shape is supposed to be, and where it should be pointing. Right now, as you can see in the pic above, it's pointing to the brake master cylinder, but there is no way the spark plug wires could reach out towards the master cylinder and then reach back to cylinder head or distributor.
Also, I have read several posts that talk about a heat shield between the carb and intake manifold. In addition, the parts manual notes a "heat insulator" there. I thought it was just a gasket. So the question is, is a heat shield necessary, or is a gasket all you need.
On the intake manifold bolts--sofakingdom mentioned that the original intake manifold were flanged (and I guess had no washers). Has anyone noticed any benefits from using regular bolts with washers, or bolts with flanged heads. I ask because I have had my intake manifold gaskets replaced twice now, and am still getting puddles of oil in the little wells surrounding some of the bolts. Have read a number of posts suggesting it may be because of a lack of sealant on the threads of the bolts when they were reinstalled. We will certainly make sure that we do that, but thought maybe there may be some advantage to using flanged bolts, or unflanged bolts, that I am unaware of.
Last, is it worth the money to get a scanner. I have read they are of minimal help with obd1 cars. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Anyhow, just a couple of quick questions.
Can anyone explain/describe, or maybe take a pic of how that wire support bracket is to be oriented. I know it bolts to front bolt on rocker cover, but mine has been bent all out of shape, and I'm not sure what it's correct shape is supposed to be, and where it should be pointing. Right now, as you can see in the pic above, it's pointing to the brake master cylinder, but there is no way the spark plug wires could reach out towards the master cylinder and then reach back to cylinder head or distributor.
Also, I have read several posts that talk about a heat shield between the carb and intake manifold. In addition, the parts manual notes a "heat insulator" there. I thought it was just a gasket. So the question is, is a heat shield necessary, or is a gasket all you need.
On the intake manifold bolts--sofakingdom mentioned that the original intake manifold were flanged (and I guess had no washers). Has anyone noticed any benefits from using regular bolts with washers, or bolts with flanged heads. I ask because I have had my intake manifold gaskets replaced twice now, and am still getting puddles of oil in the little wells surrounding some of the bolts. Have read a number of posts suggesting it may be because of a lack of sealant on the threads of the bolts when they were reinstalled. We will certainly make sure that we do that, but thought maybe there may be some advantage to using flanged bolts, or unflanged bolts, that I am unaware of.
Last, is it worth the money to get a scanner. I have read they are of minimal help with obd1 cars. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible
Any suggestions would be welcome.
heat shield between the carb and intake manifold
is a gasket all you need
Has anyone noticed any benefits from using ... bolts with flanged heads
a lack of sealant on the threads of the bolts when they were reinstalled
is it worth the money to get a scanner
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#100
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Re: Reinstalling quadrajet and as much Emissions as possible