Lookin to check if there’s any foreseeable problems with the parts list below for a stock bottom end and stock oil pan 88 L98?
I’ve got a leaky oil pan gasket that I wanna replace, while I’ve got the whole front suspension torn apart I’m going to remove the k member to sandblast and powder coat it, Now would be the perfect time to go ahead and fix on that leaky oil pan gasket and if I’m removing the oil pan just as cheap insurance I’m also replacing the oil pump and related parts. So do you see any issues with parts listed below? Is there anything else I should consider?


For some reason Amazon Is saying that this gasket kit doesn’t work but Felpro’s website says it does, certainly wouldn’t be the first time that Amazon doesn’t know what they’re talking about.

Has anyone used these before?

 

I don't know, I don't do business with Amazon. How many miles are on the engine?
Oil pumps RARELY go bad, so why fix what isn't broken?...

 

Doesn’t really matter where parts are coming from, these are just taken from Amazon as a reference.
Body’s got 138,000, engine came out of an 88 with at the time of engine swap had approximately 80,000 15-20 years ago.
Car’s been sitting in the garage for 12-15 years, I know the oil pump is currently good because I’ve primed the motor multiple times in the past 6 months, and have had the motor running for short stints here and there, been working a lot on this car past year and a half to two years to get it back up and running, so every opportunity to replace critical parts that I’m expecting to fail because they’ve been sitting around for so long I’ve been replacing them, And it will be my luck that once I get this car on the road something like the oil pump is going to fail. Again if I’ve got the oil pan off to replace the oil pan gasket I’m going to replace the oil pump.

 

It's not likely that the oil pump will fail. Unless you're gonna rebuild the engine, I'd leave well enough alone...

 

M55 is the std pressure version. will do about 35 - 40 psi hot cruise in a motor with new stock bearing clearances.

M55A is the one to get. It's the replacement for the ones in motors used in "sporty" cars like ours, Vettes, MC SS, etc.

Or, get the Mr Gasket relief spring, and put it in the M55. That more or less turns it into the A.

Otherwise, should be fine.

As cheeeeeeep as all those parts are, I see no reason NOT to change them, even though it's very true that the existing ones are most likely just fine. The things that fail most often about oil pumps are, the plastic sleeve that the E drive rod fixes, and the screen plugging up, and the relief valve hanging up on debris. Needless to say it's ALOT easier to unbolt old and rebolt totally new, than to take the old apart and repair or replace those things.

 

replace the pump if you want to. no big deal. but the only thing I see with your listed items is the pickup retaining bracket. I'd much rather braze or weld the pickup tube in place at the pump.
You can mock everything up and then carefully take the pump back out and have it brazed.

I say 'brazed' because it is a steel tube and cast iron pump housing. Yes, many many people have just welded the tube to the housing. However cast iron welds are brittle and can have problems.
So, I personally TIG Silicon Bronze to do that instead of weld. but an alternate method would be to make a tab that bolts to under one of the pump housing cover bolts and then welds to the tube. that way you can MIG it (away from the engine), not weld to the cast iron, and could also remove the pick up from the housing if you ever wanted to for some reason. Just a thought.

example of a Canton pickup. you can see the tab w/ the bolt hole.