Idle jumps, won't kick down
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Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 162
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Car: 1983 Z-28
Engine: 305 LG4
Transmission: 5-speed
Idle jumps, won't kick down
'83 LG4, all stock, E4ME carb has been rebuilt...
This issue is driving me nuts! From a cold start, idle is approx. 750 rpm. After running for almost exactly 3 min., idle jumps to approx. 1500 and WILL NOT kick down for several minutes. (If I shut 'er down when idle is this high, I get a lot of dieseling.)
I have an Actron Scantool OBD1, and no codes are thrown. Seems most parameters stay constant. Then again I don't know what I should look for that might give me a clue as to what the problem is...
Thanks for any ideas, and Happy New Year!
Best,
Bubba
This issue is driving me nuts! From a cold start, idle is approx. 750 rpm. After running for almost exactly 3 min., idle jumps to approx. 1500 and WILL NOT kick down for several minutes. (If I shut 'er down when idle is this high, I get a lot of dieseling.)
I have an Actron Scantool OBD1, and no codes are thrown. Seems most parameters stay constant. Then again I don't know what I should look for that might give me a clue as to what the problem is...
Thanks for any ideas, and Happy New Year!
Best,
Bubba
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,871
Likes: 2,430
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: Idle jumps, won't kick down
Idle Stop Solenoid
It kicks out when the engine RPM is above 1400 or so, then when it comes down below that, drops out. It's supposed to act sort of like a "dashpot" to bring the idle down gently, for emissions reasons. Especially on stick shift cars, the slamming shut of the throttles between gears, causes a huge belch of HC and CO. It's also the AC kicker.
Energize it (alligator clip lead works great) and adjust it for about 1100 RPM idle by turning the hex head on the plunger. It's REAL stiff, like a locknut. May take a few tries to get it to work smoothly. You'll probably find that when it does the "dashpot" thing the best, it has a little too much "authority" for the AC, and will hold the idle up around 900 or so with the compressor on. It'll take some fiddling to find the best compromise.
Last edited by sofakingdom; Jan 1, 2022 at 01:11 PM.
Thread Starter
Member

Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 162
Likes: 2
Car: 1983 Z-28
Engine: 305 LG4
Transmission: 5-speed
Re: Idle jumps, won't kick down
[QUOTE=sofakingdom;6452449]^^^ This ^^^
It kicks out when the engine RPM is above 1400 or so, then when it comes down below that, drops out. It's supposed to act sort of like a "dashpot" to bring the idle down gently, for emissions reasons. Especially on stick shift cars, the slamming shut of the throttles between gears, causes a huge belch of HC and CO. It's also the AC kicker.
Energize it (alligator clip lead works great) and adjust it for about 1100 RPM idle by turning the hex head on the plunger. It's REAL stiff, like a locknut. May take a few tries to get it to work smoothly. You'll probably find that when it does the "dashpot" thing the best, it has a little too much "authority" for the AC, and will hold the idle up around 900 or so with the compressor on. It'll take some fiddling to find the best compromise.[/QUOT]
Thank you! As usual, golden advice. One question- Should I adjust the plunger to 1100 rpm when engine is warm?
Thanks again!
It kicks out when the engine RPM is above 1400 or so, then when it comes down below that, drops out. It's supposed to act sort of like a "dashpot" to bring the idle down gently, for emissions reasons. Especially on stick shift cars, the slamming shut of the throttles between gears, causes a huge belch of HC and CO. It's also the AC kicker.
Energize it (alligator clip lead works great) and adjust it for about 1100 RPM idle by turning the hex head on the plunger. It's REAL stiff, like a locknut. May take a few tries to get it to work smoothly. You'll probably find that when it does the "dashpot" thing the best, it has a little too much "authority" for the AC, and will hold the idle up around 900 or so with the compressor on. It'll take some fiddling to find the best compromise.[/QUOT]
Thank you! As usual, golden advice. One question- Should I adjust the plunger to 1100 rpm when engine is warm?
Thanks again!
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