converting a/c to "new" type
converting a/c to "new" type
does anyone know where I can find info or a tech article that tells how to change a/c over to the "new" (13? R ) type..I have an '86 with 305 LG4, 4BBL Q-jet, 700R. Also, what is the approx. cost?
A mechanic recommended a brand new a/c system in it and said he'd do it for about $700
A mechanic recommended a brand new a/c system in it and said he'd do it for about $700
a retrofit kit for R12 to 134a costs about 35 bucks at Autozone. from my understanding, its extremely simple to do, but it would be a good idea to have a pro evacuate whatever R12 you have left in the system. as for the mechanic's advice, if your a/c is still working, i WOULD NOT REPLACE IT. there may be a tech article on the homepage for thirdgen.org, also
2 years ago I converted form r12 to r134-a. Any shop will tell you you need to rip the whole system apart and replace all the seals, but they are just trying to get your cash. I have done this on 3 different cars, and all still have ice cold a/c years later. (I live in florida where I run my a/c 10 months a year) All you need to do is take the car to a shop and have them put a vacuum on your system, not just evacuate it. (It is tough to find a place willing to do it) Then get a R134-A conversion kit from the auto parts store, attach the fittings, add coolent and oil, and you are good to go. You just cannot use as much 134 as is recomended for the r12, there was a little conversion chart in my kit.
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 564
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From: Cathlamet, Washington
Car: 87 Formula
Engine: 327
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Check your receiver drier to see if its R134 compatible(usually says on the sticker) if not you need to change it. You should try to get at least 1/2 the original oil out of the system. Usually quite a bit is in the reciever drier but its hard to get out to measure, and you can get some more out of the compressor if you take it off. You only need to replace the o-rings on anything you have taken apart. If the fitting hasnt been disturbed and doesnt show any signs of leaking leave it alone. I'd also recommend replacing the orifice tube, it's cheap but makes a big difference in cooling. Especially if its plugging up. When you have the whole system back together, then you have to find some way to pull a 30" vacuum on it for 45 minutes. Take it to a shop if you can find one. This removes any moisture and air in the system. Moisture and the refrigerant oil make acid. Then fill the system with 80% of the original total system fill. R134 leaks easier than R12 but its so much cheaper it doesnt really matter.
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