Z28 Sitting for ~10 Years. Where do I start?
06-01-2022, 05:12 PM
#1
Z28 Sitting for ~10 Years. Where do I start?
Hey y'all! I'm new to these forums. I have a 92' Z28 that's been sitting for about 10 years and I think its about time for me to get it running again. First and foremost I want to get the engine running again, mines got the 5.7L V8 in it. I'll worry about all the other stuff like cosmetics and what not later. Can anyone tell me where to start on reviving the engine? Maybe a checklist on what I should do. See I'm a younger guy and I don't exactly know what I'm doing when it comes to the engine / mechanical part of cars. I've been trying to do some research on videos and googling things to see what other people have done and what I should do but I haven't really been able to find any specifics. I'll continue to do research and see what I can find but I feel like I need some sort of lead to go on. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks!
06-01-2022, 05:45 PM
#2
Supreme Member
Re: Z28 Sitting for ~10 Years. Where do I start?
Watch some Vice Grip Garage, like the recent one with the GTO where he actually cares about the motor. Here's some general things to do before turning the key:
If all that checks out, you've got one more decision to make. Technically you should pop the valve covers off, and whack every valve to make sure they aren't sticky / binding. If you think they aren't stuck, then turn the key to ON and listen for the fuel pump. You should also have a security light come on and off, and the SES light should illuminate.
It's best to have another person with eyes on the engine while you're cranking. If it fires and something is seized (my air pump was), they can tell you to shut it off far faster than you alone can make that decision. Ideally, let it run for a minute or two, then change the oil.
- Remove old gas from tank, put in 5 gal fresh with the highest octane you can get. Lucas fuel conditioner or similar won't hurt but isn't necessary.
- Turn the engine over by hand. The correct way to do this is by removing the crank pulley and installing an adapter on the harmonic balancer. The other way is to put a socket on the crank bolt and hope you don't twist it off. Feel for binding, don't force it.
- Remove spark plugs, squirt some penetrating oil and/or atf into the holes.
- Blow out / vacuum loose debris from engine bay so nothing catches on fire.
- Inspect all wires for mouse damage.
- Inspect all hoses for cracks, bubbling, etc. Be gentle, they are probably in poor shape.
- When hooking up the battery, check for smoke or noises. Maybe don't leave it hooked up while you're not around until you trust it.
- Check oil for condition and viscosity.
- Check trans fluid.
- Check radiator coolant level and color.
- Open the throttle, make sure it doesn't stick.
- Inspect air filters, discard if gross, you can run it without filters for testing just fine.
If all that checks out, you've got one more decision to make. Technically you should pop the valve covers off, and whack every valve to make sure they aren't sticky / binding. If you think they aren't stuck, then turn the key to ON and listen for the fuel pump. You should also have a security light come on and off, and the SES light should illuminate.
It's best to have another person with eyes on the engine while you're cranking. If it fires and something is seized (my air pump was), they can tell you to shut it off far faster than you alone can make that decision. Ideally, let it run for a minute or two, then change the oil.
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tomasu46 (06-01-2022)
06-01-2022, 09:26 PM
#3
Re: Z28 Sitting for ~10 Years. Where do I start?
I agree with Komet's points, except I would advise using the LOWEST octane fuel you can get. It is more volatile, which is exactly why it has a greater tendency to pre-ignite or detonate. It can more easily dissolve and re-suspend any varnish or deposited in the system so the fuel filter can capture it.
Top off fluids, test run run it to test for function, and if everything is satisfactory run it to normal operating temperature. THEN change fluids as Komet advised.
Don't overlook the brake fluid, which tends to accumulate water over time.
As for mechanical problems ten years may be enough to create stuck valves, scaly cylinder walls, and leaked-out lifters. I know that 40 years of storage certainly can. I am currently in the process of resurrecting twenty-some antique tractors, the latest of which haven't been run since 2003, and some that haven't run since 1973.
Stuck valves can happen:
Some are so stuck that they break rocker arms:
That should only underscore the advice to check for any mechanical anomalies on startup.
It's not all gloom and doom, however. I also grabbed a 1948 ****** that hadn't run since 1973. It needed fuel, a carb flush-out and drain, the points cleaned, and a battery. It fired off with 40 pounds of oil pressure like it had been parked the night before, and ran as smoothly as any 4-cylinder ever.
.
Top off fluids, test run run it to test for function, and if everything is satisfactory run it to normal operating temperature. THEN change fluids as Komet advised.
Don't overlook the brake fluid, which tends to accumulate water over time.
As for mechanical problems ten years may be enough to create stuck valves, scaly cylinder walls, and leaked-out lifters. I know that 40 years of storage certainly can. I am currently in the process of resurrecting twenty-some antique tractors, the latest of which haven't been run since 2003, and some that haven't run since 1973.
Stuck valves can happen:
Some are so stuck that they break rocker arms:
That should only underscore the advice to check for any mechanical anomalies on startup.
It's not all gloom and doom, however. I also grabbed a 1948 ****** that hadn't run since 1973. It needed fuel, a carb flush-out and drain, the points cleaned, and a battery. It fired off with 40 pounds of oil pressure like it had been parked the night before, and ran as smoothly as any 4-cylinder ever.
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tomasu46 (06-01-2022)
06-01-2022, 09:30 PM
#4
Re: Z28 Sitting for ~10 Years. Where do I start?
And don't be afraid to mix the fresh fuel with some 2-stroke oil at about 50:1. It can provide a bit more cylinder and valve lubrication which can be a real benefit on an old, stagnant engine.
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tomasu46 (06-01-2022)
06-01-2022, 10:24 PM
#5
Re: Z28 Sitting for ~10 Years. Where do I start?
Holy crap. I wasn't expecting anything this thorough. I'll make sure to go over everything you said and hope it all goes smoothly. I need to do some research on turning the engine over by hand as well as some of the other things you said. I'll make sure to check out Vice Grip Garage sometime tonight or tomorrow. You've been an incredible help. I plan on clearing out an area to start working on the car tomorrow. Again, thanks for the advice!
06-01-2022, 10:30 PM
#6
Re: Z28 Sitting for ~10 Years. Where do I start?
I agree with Komet's points, except I would advise using the LOWEST octane fuel you can get. It is more volatile, which is exactly why it has a greater tendency to pre-ignite or detonate. It can more easily dissolve and re-suspend any varnish or deposited in the system so the fuel filter can capture it.
Top off fluids, test run run it to test for function, and if everything is satisfactory run it to normal operating temperature. THEN change fluids as Komet advised.
Don't overlook the brake fluid, which tends to accumulate water over time.
As for mechanical problems ten years may be enough to create stuck valves, scaly cylinder walls, and leaked-out lifters. I know that 40 years of storage certainly can. I am currently in the process of resurrecting twenty-some antique tractors, the latest of which haven't been run since 2003, and some that haven't run since 1973.
Stuck valves can happen:
Some are so stuck that they break rocker arms:
That should only underscore the advice to check for any mechanical anomalies on startup.
It's not all gloom and doom, however. I also grabbed a 1948 ****** that hadn't run since 1973. It needed fuel, a carb flush-out and drain, the points cleaned, and a battery. It fired off with 40 pounds of oil pressure like it had been parked the night before, and ran as smoothly as any 4-cylinder ever.
.
Top off fluids, test run run it to test for function, and if everything is satisfactory run it to normal operating temperature. THEN change fluids as Komet advised.
Don't overlook the brake fluid, which tends to accumulate water over time.
As for mechanical problems ten years may be enough to create stuck valves, scaly cylinder walls, and leaked-out lifters. I know that 40 years of storage certainly can. I am currently in the process of resurrecting twenty-some antique tractors, the latest of which haven't been run since 2003, and some that haven't run since 1973.
Stuck valves can happen:
Some are so stuck that they break rocker arms:
That should only underscore the advice to check for any mechanical anomalies on startup.
It's not all gloom and doom, however. I also grabbed a 1948 ****** that hadn't run since 1973. It needed fuel, a carb flush-out and drain, the points cleaned, and a battery. It fired off with 40 pounds of oil pressure like it had been parked the night before, and ran as smoothly as any 4-cylinder ever.
.
06-01-2022, 10:44 PM
#7
Member
Re: Z28 Sitting for ~10 Years. Where do I start?
My dad had a 90 silverado with a 350 that he let sit for about 13 years. I got it and drained the tank and went ahead and replaced the fuel pump while I was there. Put a new battery on it and it started right up like it had been running all year. I would bet that yours will be very similar to that especially if you did the bulk of what everyone has suggested already.
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06-01-2022, 10:57 PM
#8
Re: Z28 Sitting for ~10 Years. Where do I start?
My dad had a 90 silverado with a 350 that he let sit for about 13 years. I got it and drained the tank and went ahead and replaced the fuel pump while I was there. Put a new battery on it and it started right up like it had been running all year. I would bet that yours will be very similar to that especially if you did the bulk of what everyone has suggested already.
06-01-2022, 11:05 PM
#9
Member
Re: Z28 Sitting for ~10 Years. Where do I start?
The fuel pump plug was the reason that it was parked. It wasn't the plug that is on the outside of the tank, it was the one just under the mounting plate inside of the tank. I ended up soldering the wires and eliminated the connector completely. Should be easy to check for that with a simple ohm meter by checking for continuity from the outside plug to the pump itself.
06-01-2022, 11:12 PM
#10
Supreme Member
Re: Z28 Sitting for ~10 Years. Where do I start?
Vader makes a good point about the low octane, I'd go with that. A little 2 stroke oil in the gas would be good too. My 350 sat for 11 years outside and it didn't have any stuck valves. It may have been turned over occasionally during that time though. It essentially "fired right up" after I fixed what the PO couldn't, but there's a big difference between getting it running, and getting it running right. My intake gaskets were cooked (spraying coolant, very exciting), egr valve was toast, 3 injectors were dead, etc. The small block 350 is one of the stoutest engines of all time though, if yours was in a garage, it'll come back around.
06-01-2022, 11:22 PM
#11
Re: Z28 Sitting for ~10 Years. Where do I start?
Vader makes a good point about the low octane, I'd go with that. A little 2 stroke oil in the gas would be good too. My 350 sat for 11 years outside and it didn't have any stuck valves. It may have been turned over occasionally during that time though. It essentially "fired right up" after I fixed what the PO couldn't, but there's a big difference between getting it running, and getting it running right. My intake gaskets were cooked (spraying coolant, very exciting), egr valve was toast, 3 injectors were dead, etc. The small block 350 is one of the stoutest engines of all time though, if yours was in a garage, it'll come back around.
06-02-2022, 06:42 AM
#12
Re: Z28 Sitting for ~10 Years. Where do I start?
The 2-cycle oil and clean fuel can't do the injectors any harm. I would try to run what is installed for a while before jumping in and changing any unless one has failed electrically. I'll spare you the long story, but I've been seasonally storing several injected engines for 20+ years and religiously add fuel stabilizer and 2-stroke oil to the fuel to preserve injectors, and haven't had problems. Prior to that I was changing sticky/streaming injectors in 2-3 year increments.
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