Alright, so I got two questions:
I have a 1984 Camaro Z/28 HO, Vin G
1. In between parts coming in, I was figuring out the A/C system. A/C comes out the defroster. Great, that's normal, being the default setting. I know the vent selector uses a engine vacuum. So my question is, how many A/C vacuum lines do I have? and can I tee off one of my vacuum lines that is going to vacuum switch for the TCC lock-up?
2. This one is a little more tricky. I replaced my L69 with a carbed L31 Vortec. Since I have the L31, the cam lobe isn't there to use a mechanical fuel pump. I am wanting to replace the mechanical fuel pump and in-tank pump with one of those Edelbrock 7psi fuel pumps you get from Autozone. I dropped the tank, took out the fuel sending unit, took off the fuel pump, replaced it with a line of 3/8 fuel pipe and a sock, put it back in the tank, and the tank is back in the car. I put the Edelbrock fuel pump in-line with the fuel supply line below the tank. Would I be able to wire the Edelbrock fuel pump with the wires that went to the original in-tank fuel pump? If I wired it to ignition, it would run the whole time if I'm at the drive-in and I only need the radio or something like that. The ecu harness is no where to be seen because the previous owner was trying to fix the car on his own. Is there a way to make the fuel pump run for a few seconds and then shut off like it did stock? or is a switch the most simple solution? And do I need a fuel pressure regulator? Sorry if I might be asking a lot. I might have been more than two questions.

Thank you for bearing with me. I also attached the wiring diagram.

 

I would look to see it the stock ECM is still there. It's in the pass side dash. The fuel pump wires in the early cars was part of the tail light harness and came from the driver side. It's different in later years. Either way I would use the stock ecm if possible to power a relay for the new pump. I would use a 30 amp relay and 10 or 12 gauge tire. You also need the pump to flow enough fuel and not be pushing too hard. A return style regulator is needed. It would be ideal to have a 3/8 feed and return to keep the pump cooler. Your car has a 5/16(?) return. This may at may not be an issue. I had an external Edelbrock pump for a few years and it slowly got louder and eventually died. I didn't have enough fuel return and the pump ran hot(I was also using EFI) The fuel cools the pump and does a better job when it's in the tank. Enough flow through the pump w minimal resistance should help you out, thats where a good return style reg comes in. That pump slowly getting louder under the rear seat got old! Now I have an in tank pump. It's quieter but pulling the tanks sucks as you know.

 

The above advice is good.

I would not run an electric pump without a fuel return. They do not hold up well under those conditions. You can wire in your own electric pump setup if you wish. I ran one for years with a hot wire run through a pressure switch plumbed into the oil galley, which meant the fuel pump only was energized when the engine was running and oil pressure was above ~5psi. I also had another wire and relay that activated only when the starter was cranking. The idea here was that the fuel pump was activated by the starter and began priming as soon as starter was used, as an intermittent power source until oil pressure was above 5psi. I don't think the starter circuit was really necessary though with the carburetor and I ended up removing it to simplify.

I abandoned all the above when i went back to a mechanical pump.

You might not need a regulator since you are running a carb. Try a fuel line t-fitting after the pump and plumb it back through whatever return line setup you have. If that works good start eliminating your rubber lines and replace them with steel. Rubber is a fuel leak fire hazard.

 

I've looked underneath the passenger side dash. There is no ecu. And even worse, the harness looks like its been hacked out.