Another major fail happened last week. Took the car for a longer drive, where it died and left me stranded for about 30 minutes, but then restarted and was good. Got to my stop, popped the hood for 30 or more minutes while getting an estimate for a new top. That should have been plenty of time for everything to cool down and get me home all good, but instead the car died less than 5 minutes down the road and would not restart again. Had to get a trailer to pick it up and bring it home. I'm not sure how much I trusted the fuel pressure gauge, and did not get a chance to try a clear fuel tube yet. But I wonder two things: 1) is there an electric pump in the fuel tank of these L69 cars from 84 and if not, would installing one back there be a way to avoid the potential heat of the engine bay and reduce this issue?
The most consistent thing is that it only happens when the engine/engine bay get hot, and there is not enough air flow. If I can stay on the highway and never stop it would be fine, but stop and go traffic is what kills it.

 

Drive the car with the hood off. Or sell it then buy a much nicer 1989+ model TBI fuel injected Camaro.

TBI 3rd gens are simpler than a box of rocks, cheap and easy to repair, and as rock solid reliable as a granite surface plate.

 

1. No electric in-tank pump in an '84 L69
2. It could. But if it were ME, I'd want to prove, why it's dying so I'd know what the actual fix is going to be, rather the guessing.

When it wouldn't re-start at all, did you re-confirm that you had spark? Did it have a pump shot from the accel pump?

 

See above for all the things I've done so far. It still has spark as it will restart after cooling for 20 minutes or so, and sounds like it is choking for fuel. I put a fuel pressure gauge on it and when stomping on the gas, when cooler, the gauge would still go to 0 but the car would run fine, so I don't know how I could trust the readings to begin with. When the car is out and dead, I can still hear fuel being sprayed in the carb when the electric fuel pump is on and I move the throttle linkage. I didn't put a clear line on yet to see if there are any air bubbles in the fuel line.
Recap: Edelbrock intake, Edelbrock 650 cfm carb, new HEI dizzy, plugs, wires, mechanical fuel pump with insulator, Edelbrock electric fuel pump mounted in the inner fender well near the mechanical fuel pump.
Current thoughts for me: move fuel pump under the car close to the gas tank, put a switch on the radiator fan to keep it running when in heavy traffic; eventually I want to pull the engine and upgrade it/replace seals, and consider EFI at that time. Yes, I could LS swap it, but I like the idea of keeping the original 305 HO. It puts out 191hp/235 lb-ft at the wheels as it is, and I don't want or need a 400hp car.

 

Yeah?
I don't care what it says above....*I* would re-check my spark. AND the accel pump. You know why? B/c it won't start! When it won't start, 99.9% of the time, it's because something is missing; spark or fuel.

1. You could. It might help. Who knows?
2. Shouldn't need to do that...it's not an air cooled engine. Fix the actual problem.

The problem in this thread is: we -the folks trying to assist you, have very little fact with which to help you. Fuel pressure? Props to you, for rigging it up, but you've told us twice you don't trust it. (?) What's that mean? Why don't you trust a FP gauge to show you FP?? If it were ME, I'd grab another gauge....verify.
You say it has spark....I'm sure it did, when you checked it....once. When it's not starting check again! It's like a 30 second test.
You say you "hear" fuel spraying in to the carb w/throttle movement, when it won't start....WATCH it spray in! And do it when? When it won't start.

As a mechanic...and the boss of mechanics for 30+ years, I'm trying to give you good advice, . If it were me and my car, I'd want the most direct path to a bullet proof solution; I would diag the actual problem first...then make the appropriate plan to fix the actual issue. When it won't start at all....that is a GREAT time to do some real quick, basic diag.

 

I'll echo what Tom said above. Diagnose it while it is malfunctioning, actually LOOKING (not assuming) fuel and spark.

If it is a lack of fuel issue I would immediately diagnose you fuel pump setup. Without digging back through all the previous threads I'm suspicious the electric pump is overheating and seizing up/creating blockage, BUT DIAGNOSE FIRST.

If it is a lack of spark issue I would immediately diagnose/replace coil or ICM. Notorious for malfunctioning when hot, BUT DIAGNOSE FIRST.

 

"I'm trying to give you good advice"

Tom, Sofaking, and all the rest, I genuinely appreciate all the advice and apologize for the continuous questions and it seeming like I'm not following your recommendations. I'm doing the best I can with the very basic knowledge I have and the limited time that I get to work on the car. I also am trying to be cost conscious at the same time.

I am short and fat so can't see well into the carb, but will try and get higher up with a stool and possibly get a video of the carb in action when the car is dead
I have ordered a different fuel pressure gauge to see if that may work better. I will still route it the same way, where the line comes from the pump, up the cowl and onto the windshield where I can see the gauge, and then back down under the hood to the carb.

"electric pump is overheating and seizing up/creating blockage"

I installed the electric pump due to this happening on the mechanical pump, but the problem is still there. My assumption on potentially moving the pump is that it would be easier to push than pull fuel and that it would be away from engine bay heat. I also acknowledge that I have not had the chance to look for any air leaks in the fuel lines. I was told by one person that putting a clear fuel line on would allow me to see any air bubbles, but another person told me it can be common to see some air bubbles in a fuel line, so I am not sure which way to go.

Again, I am very thankful for all these responses and opinions, and I am truly sorry to those I've annoyed. (Find one thing and do it well.....)

David

Please tell me what is your preferred way to check for spark?

 

Clip it to a grounding source. Kinda need someone or some way to crank while watching it though.

 

Much easier to check if gas missing than to check if spark missing-get a can of either(starting fluid) or a spray bottle with gas and have that item ready next time you run the car enough to get it hot and stall out-when the next stall occurs,take off air cleaner lid and spray in plenty of gas and crank:if gas missing should start and run for a bit.If spark missing, car will just crank.Some L69 cars did have an auxiliary electric fuel pump in the tank-the original pump is a low pressure turbine pump without check valve that will free-flow gas through the pump when it is not running.a 12/83 build L 69 i looked at had this pump as did a 2/84 build-that last one also had a 1985 dated carb blower retrofit I have never had a vapor lock with any of my carb cars Chevy,Ford or Dodge

 

You should be able to position a spark plug, wire w/a "screwdriver" stuck in it and placed near ground, or tester like the one pictured above, in such a way that you can easily see it from in the car, under the rear/gap of the opened hood. spark w/HEI should jump 3/4 of an inch easy, which makes it real easy to see.

 

Tom it seems you need to repeat your very logical and simple advice 6,000 times.
I can’t even finish reading the thread I’ve lost interest.

 

Vanilla Ice:
"I can’t even finish reading the thread I’ve lost interest."

Thankfully there are literally hundreds of other threads to keep your attention.

I'm just trying to collaborate and listen. Wil this ever stop? Yo, I don't know
Sorry if this is killing your brain like a poisonous mushroom

 

Try harder. When you alienate those that can help the most you’re only hurting yourself.

 

It's alright. He's trying. That's the most important thing and I appreciate his situation/challenges.

 

You’re very patient. I did notice it wasn’t really the op that was going on and on about boiling gasoline.

just crazy to see first steps ignored for what looked like months talking about boiling gas.

good luck OP. Listen to old wise men that tell you basic steps. Not the ones spitting out random problems.