Hi everyone. I have a 1989 Camaro rs 5.0 vin code E. Today the vehicle was driven on a highway around 70 mph amd i got a check engine light. Car felt like it was running fine so i tgought i would wait till i got home to check. Once we hit the offramp and i hit the brakes the car shutoff. I tried to restart the vehicle but it would not crank. According to my volt gauge, 8 volts. I thought my battery was dead. Called AAA and explained to them that my volt gauge was indicating a dead battery. They tried to jump start it. Would not start. They inspected the battery and the battery was pushing 12 volts. My gauge was telling me otherwise but the car would not even crank. Felt like the starter died. They towed me to the nearest street. After 30 minutes the car started like normal. I got it towed back home just in case. I inspected the grounds and they look fine. I checked the service engine light before the car would start and I got another code 32. But when the tow truck operator dropped off my car. I was able to park it back on my driveway and the service engine light is now off. I can't seem to figure out these symptoms combined with an intermittent code 32. Any hints on what to check would be well appreciated.

 

I had something similar happen with my old Camaro, and it drove me nuts for weeks. Code 32 usually points to the EGR system, but combined with stalling and weird voltage readings, it could also be grounding issues or a flaky connection at the starter/alternator. Sometimes the gauge isn’t telling the full truth. I’d suggest double-checking the battery cables (especially the grounds to the block) and maybe running a scan with something like FIXD just to confirm if more codes are hiding. These intermittent stalls are often electrical gremlins, so patience and chasing wires really pays off.

 

I did some testing and determined that my evap lines were clogged. Primarily the solid one that runs underneath the vehicle. Cleared it with some compressed air and brake clean. Also while testing i think my egr solenoid is dead. Which is weird since I replaced it back in 2019 when I got another code 32. With the solenoid off the vehicle I cannot get air to go through. Thought it was clogged since I think these solenoids are always open but close when energized. So I tested with a multimeter and I'm getting some resistance. Also I tried to use jumper wires and manually energize the solenoid but heard not audible click. Ordered a new solenoid today and I'll keep yall updated.

Ps not sure if my electrical woes are a factor as to why the solenoid died prematurely. Maybe engine heat?

 

That's not what batteries DO. They don't "push".

Can't really help you with the code 32; that's above my pay grade. However all that may be, sounds to me like you have 2 COMPLETELY SEPARATE problems going on at the same time. Deal with them one at a time.

Butt: if the batt has 12.x volts on its terminals, butt the "gauge" says 8V, odds are, there's a bad connection between the batt terminal and the "car". Most likely, one of the cables. Check both the pos cable all the way from the batt to the starter, and the neg cable from the batt to the block, and MAKE SURE there's no corrosion, nothing loose, etc. There should be 12.x volts between the Big Post on the starter where the batt cable goes, and the block, when the starter is trying to turn the engine over. Work on the batt/cables part of the system until that condition is achieved. Then, the car should start, or at least it should CRANK properly, and you can go to work on the code 32, whatever that is in a TBI system (which I have no knowledge of whatsoever).

 

Code 32 egr error is usually a failed egr solenoid.

 

that's really good advice. Thank you. I replaced the egr solenoid and it's behaving like it should. I'm in socal and I'm gonna wait for the heat to die down a bit so I can go under to measure the voltage near the solenoid. The battery gauge seems to be behaving but im not trusting it till i verify. I know it's a stretch but is there a complete list of how many and where are the different ground points there are? So far the negative is a 2 gauge wire i have bolted onto the back in a compressor bypass pulley with a secondary ground onto the fender. I've heard they actually went onto the block but I haven't seen a clear picture of this. And a single ground strap on the back of the passenger side cylinder head to the firewall. I also have a ground strap near the gas tank.