Alright, ladies and gentlemen, I have 92Z28 looks like it came stock with a tune port 305, the tuned port has been removed and some type of a small block has been installed. I was told that it was a 383/700 R4 The front chin spoiler has about 4 cracks in it. The rear bumper cover has one crack in it. The interior is not mint, but it is not terrible at all. Of course, the dashpad is cracked.

They put an aftermarket external fuel pump on it, w/ a carburetor on it. It will run, and idle seems to run pretty good. It does not have any exhaust orders, just open headers. None of the wiring appears cut as far as I can see. The the windshield is cracked. The rear trunk hatch motor is not operational. Seem to have very little rust that I can tell. All the air conditioning stuff is there except for the compressor and the hoses.
We got hood blisters. It is a 25th anniversary heritage edition. Ttops made out of plastic.Where do I begin? Please give me some ideas....

1. Check the casting number and see what type of motor this is?
2. How can I ensure that this is a 383 stroker?
3. Has anybody know a reputable paint shop anywhere near johnston county , north carolina , zip code 27524
4. I know I need to measure the ttops , but if they are thirty inch , can I just replace them with glass ttops
5 it looks like they unbolted the metal fuel lines so that they could put their aftermarket, pump down beside them. So all I should have to do is hook up the fuel lines again to connect an in tank pump, correct?
6. Am I correct in thinking that the chin spoiler and the rear bumper cover are going to need replacing or can they be repaired?
7. Left foglight is an excellent condition , right foglight is broken (i have replacement in barn)
8. What'll be the best budget stereo system to put in this.I would like to have 12in. subs , and an amplifier
9. Do I need to discuss replacing the entire weather stripping package on the car?Especially for the ttops or will the paint shop automatically , do it
10. It has 2.73 gears in it. I just located a GT4, G80 ($175) rear end that I am going to try to pick up tomorrow. Is there anything in particular I need to know to try to test it before I leave the junkyard?

Not trying to make the same mistakes I made on my 1st one. I want to do this one right!!!!

Goals:
Non-leaking stops
Straight, clean , body and paint
Clean interior w/fourth gen or better seats
Nice hitting stereo (still need a place to put ttops)
If the sbc doesn't work out I have a 6.0ls w/862 (I'll throw 54-453-11 cam/springs/ls7 lifters/ and muscle car oil pan/perf oil pump/ 103k miles, carb intake) 750 carb
Use the 700r4 until it quits
Gt4/g80 combo
And just get a 3200 stall

I was going to put motor in my colorado, but if this sbc is no good or no fun, ill drop it in this car when the paint is finished.

All is temporary ultimately im saving for a L8p/6l80 and want a disc brake rear maybe 3.90 gears w/Lsd

I DONT RACE!!! What do yall think? I know its a lot. Pics and videos coming.

Oh is a 3200 stall, 3.73 gears and 3.06 1st gear in the tranny overkill?
Because it sounds fun to me.....

 

 

1. Casting number will only tell you the block bore; specifically, whether 305 or 350, if it's a 1-pc RMS block. 350 bore will be casting # 683 or 880.
2. Only ways to know for sure are to identify the crank, or measure the stroke directly. 350 & 305 stroke is 3.48"; 383 is usually 3.75". Piston part # might tell you, butt only if it's one unique to the longer stroke, since it's entirely possible to build a 383 using stock 350 pistons.
5. Depends on how everything else is run. Maybe, if you're lucky. Without seeing it I can't guess. Somehow though, I'd be inclined to expect a land mine in there somewhere. I'd be real surprised if it was that eeeeezzzy. Could be, of course; just, that's not how that sort of thing usually works.
10. Hard to say. If it has drum or Delco-Moraine (cast iron) discs, dead no. If it has drums and that's what your car now has, meh. If it has PBR (aluminum) discs, you just hit the jackpot. G80 is the generic RPO for "posi"; if it's really gear code GT4, it's a 10-bolt, which means it's an Auburn POS; if it has very many miles on it, like over 100k, it's probably wore out. Likewise, the axles are probably destroyed, so they'll need replacing. Once you get to that point, you could do all the same stuff to your existing rear if the other is drums, and put in the gears you really want, without buying the other. In case you can't tell I think that's a detour wherein you depart from the path to chase after shiny things out in the weeds somewhere, unless in the instance that it has the PBRs, which is REAL unlikely, since AFAIK there were no GT4 rears in these cars after the L69 was discontinued, therefore can't possibly be the combo of GT4 and 89-92 brakes.

As far as all the rest of that, EVERY PENNY you put toward anything that ISN'T whatever you "ultimately" intend to do, puts you ONE PENNY FURTHER AWAY from that other goal. I would not worry about the drive train AT ALL if you intend to put something else in it, beyond merely making sure it's safe (no fuel leaks etc.) and reliable enough to use however little you plan on. Under no circumstances whatsoever would I build another motor instead of just keeping my money in my pocket and letting my crotch itch.

AFAIK all 92s are "25th Anniv Heritage Edition". Nothing special about that compared to other 92s.

TPI only came on SBCs, so it came with "a SBC". A 383 is also usually a SBC. It's probably possible to make that displacement out of some other motor butt would be QUITE unusual to say the least.

 

Less than 200 I am willing tto try.... if this dont work ill run this till I get a fourthgen rear and stuff 3.90s in it with a good locker and disk brakes. Here's the info I got....

 

10066036 Small Block V8 350, 4-bolt, Goodwrench crate engine, 2-piece rear seal

 

 

Carb part number

 

That 86 rear is GARBAGE. It has the Delco-Moraine (cast-iron) discs and 26-spline axles. The Kiss Of Death. Keep your money in your pocket no matter how much "GT4" makes your crotch itch.

OK fine... the CHEEEEEEPEST POSSIBLE 350 you could get at the time... think of it as a 85-back phone company van fleet replacement mule motor, slammed into in a 92 car, probably because some high school kid gearheaded the original to its grave. Probably utterly GARBAGE heads and whatnot. Doesn't matter; It Is What It Is. We still don't have any way to guess at what crank is in it, therefore, whether it's a 350 or a 383. Doesn't matter in any case; you're saving your money for that newer stuff, so It Is What It Is, even if it's a 267. It Is What It Is and it doesn't matter any further.

Holley 4779 is a 750 CFM manual secondary carb if memory serves. Nice carb. :shrug: Nothing "wrong" with it by any means, certainly not to the point that you'd delay your ultimate gratification by messing with it. Drive and enjoy. It Is What It Is. Right?

Might wanna do something about that DEATH TRAP FIRE STARTER rubber fuel hose GARBAGE if you are gonna drive it in the meantime before you get the L8T or whatever it was you had in mind. That's not too $$$ and won't set your ultimate goal back by too terribly many paychecks. Butt you don't want to BURN THE CAR TO THE GROUND because that cheeeeeeeeep-azzzzzzz fuel hose split and spewed gasoline all over the headers. So THAT makes it worthwhile to take care of and spend some ¢¢ (not $$$) on.

 

Look at the harmonic damper. If it's counterweighted, it's a 383. If the OD is perfectly smooth/round, all the way around, then it's a 350.

 

Sofa, good to hear from you again. Taking advice seriously and will leave rear alone. I will put my effort into getting body, engine bay, in reliable safe condition. Thk u for teaching

 

This Camaro is a 1986 1985 Z28 with the L69 5.0L H.O. V8 engine and MK6 T5 close ratio 5 speed manual transmission with a 10 bolt rear with G80 limited slip, GT4 3.73 gear, and J65 4 wheel disc brakes. The janky Delco-Moraine rear discs. This was also a customer ordered car RPO code1AZ.

This car is rare being a 1986 L69 5.0L H.O. Z28. They made 74 of these for 1986 with 63 of them going to Canada for the Player's Challenge race series and the other 11 being sold to the general public.

8th digit in VIN is G for L69 and 10 digit is F for 1985.

You can see this car now has a drum brake rearend in it. Someone has robbed the rearend out of this car in the past. No telling what is in it now.

If this car actually is a 1986 model Z28 then it has the SPID label from another Z28. Car very well has had the center console swapped with the SPID label from that car still in it.

 

Daaaang wolf, good eye. U and sofa just stopped me from making a huge costly mistake. I'll be saving my money to buy real NEW parts that will actually help me get to my end goal. Thk both of you

 

No problem.

At first I thought you had found a rare 1986 L69 Camaro. Then looking at the SPID label noticed it is for a 1985 Camaro with CC1 T-tops and J65 4 wheel disc brakes which this Camaro has neither of those things being a hardtop with drum brakes.

Maybe a guy robbed the center console out of the 85 Camaro because it was nicer then the one in his 86 Camaro. Guy might have also robbed the L69 dual snorkel air cleaner assembly from the 85 car too. I'd look at it to see if he did if this 86 Camaro at the salvage yard isn't too far out of your way. They aren't super rare but they are desirable. I'd love one for my Firebird.

 

Looking forward to seeing this Z spiffed up! I saw that a couple of your questions from the original post weren't answered, so

4. If those are regular T-Tops and not the Cars & Concept ones (likely factory since they're lexan), YES you can replace them with glass ones! I keep a set of both around for my '92, glass stays on 99.9% of the time. The latch system on factory t-top thirdgens was the same after '83 or so, whenever they moved from the hook style to the pin style, so you should be able to find a good set of glass tops relatively easily. Don't throw out the lexan tops, though, there's a fair number of people who want em! They actually seem to go for more on the aftermarket since they're harder to find, and a lotta people want that weight savings up high for racing and whatnot... I keep a set around on the off chance I can finally make it to an autocross event. They'll polish up pretty easy as well, but will get scratched up again on a street car pretty quick.

8. Honestly, if you just want a budget system, the Boss headunits are actually pretty decent for the price, as long as you just care about Bluetooth. I had one of the slightly older Boss CD/ BT units in my car for awhile (2018-2022 or so), only swapped it out because the CD player went bad. Put the thing into my roommate's Corolla, still goin strong! For subs.... well, the only way I can reckon you can get a set of 12s and keep the trunk empty is to fold down your rear bench and set a box on it. I've been running a dual 12 box on my rear bench for 5-6 years or so at this point, bench is doing just fine, but you do obviously sacrifice the rear seats. I have a few friends who run little 8" subs that go under the driver and/ or pass seat, but they live out of state so I can't really say for certain how they compare to the dual 12s as far as "thump".

On the topic of budget though, honestly, Walmart might be able to hook you up. The 2x12 box I run is an older "Illuminite" or w/e bandpass box from Dual, originally sold at Walmart. I bought em used off of a friend around 2021, and I have NOT treated them nicely, but they're still holding up quite well to this day. I think that 2x12 box goes for about $150 new.... for a subwoofer amp, honestly any cheap old single channel amp with an RMS that can match your subs RMS will do just fine. When I got the box from my friend, it had a Pyle Chopper """1400W""" amp (more like 600W RMS). It finally bit the dust in 2024, ended up replacing it with an Alpine 600W and really couldn't tell ya the difference in sound quality. The subs hit hard on both amps, the Pyle was totally more than adequate, though it did tend to overheat.... I can send pictures of my box setup after work today if you wanted to see how they fit on the rear bench. Subs are facing the trunk, and the amp is screwed into the back of the box, next to a 2 farad Boss capacitor. Capacitor is probably a good call for a thirdgen, I only ended up with one because it came with the box when I bought it from my friend. Lights still dim slightly on hard bass hits, would probably be much worse without the cap.

As for an amp to power your other speakers, you may be able to get away with just using the power from the headunit. While not exactly budget, I ran Apline Type R 6x9s in the sail panels, and Infinity 4x6s of some sort in the dash off of the Boss headunit (which I eventually replaced with an Alpine CD/ BT unit when the CD player went out), and it kept up pretty alright with the subs. I eventually installed one of those little Alpine 4 channel "power pack" amps, 200W RMS total, 50W per channel, and gained some clarity and volume (as expected), but honestly not as much as I would have thought. Still glad I got it, but you can probably get away with just running off the headunit if you get some half-decent speakers. Check out Crutchfield for your stereo stuff, they're based out of Virginia and have pretty quick East Coast shipping and helpful staff, good prices too. They'll be able to put you on some decent budget 6x9s, honestly I wouldn't worry all too much about the 4x6s LOL. I went from the factory 4x6s (fine until they blew), then onto a set from Crunch ($30 for the pair), then to a NOS set of Alpine Type S speakers (they haven't made 4x6s in years, but you can get em usually p cheap on eBay), and finally onto the Infinitys (about $100 for the pair). The Infinitys were noticably better than anything before, but still not really too noteworthy; thus is the reality of the 4x6. The Infinitys are pretty clear though, the center tweeters are great, but don't expect anything out of the "woofer" on any 4x6 you decide on; you'll have subs and the 6x9s anyways. I think some folks on here have converted the 4x6s to regular circular tweeters, might be worth looking into.


ALSO, forgot you mentioned your hatch motor; unlucky for us, the 92 uses a special hatch pull-down that only came in 91.5-92 thirdgens. It's a good design, just not easy to find parts for. You can get new plastic worm gears for the motor, but if your motor itself is bad, you'll need to gamble on a used unit off eBay or the junkyard. Also, be careful with the key release cable if you pull it out, the screw strips out easy since the pulldown housing is plastic. Might also be worth checking on your wiring, depending on what transmission your car came with.... in a factory automatic car, there's a hatch release safety that only lets you pop the trunk with the button while in park. In a factory manual car, the hatch safety is tied to the parking brake instead. Might be worth checking to see if your hatch will pop with the parking brake on before you go tearing into anything...

 

End goal: my 14yo nephew is ecstatic, but I told him give me about 1yr.

https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/19435523.html
W/ 6l80 (possible 8hp70 w/adapter and controller)
3.90 gear posi
Dakota digital cluster
18" 8.5f/10.5r with 315s
​​​​​​working fog lights
ttops non-leaking
High rise spoiler
black widow exhaust
12in woofers
lowered just a tad
2in cowl hood
Fresh paint
Maybe sequential taillights and flush door handles

Sweeeeeet!

 

Thx (LL), I appreciate the feedback back. Keep it coming. I can even take criticism. But facts, honesty, experiences all help contribute and shape wisdom. And im looking to use wisdom on the build. Always wanted a powerful ttop with foglights. No racing just a windows rattling cruiser with bbc torque down low while being a small block. I love a 400sbc. ...

Will I need a stall for this setup?
Can I use a 4thgen rear to stuff the 3.90 into? B/c in want disc brakes and hopefully bigger axles (i think 31 spline)

Sorry about all the questions, I just dont want to buy twice

 

No worries! I can't help much with motor stuff since I live in V6 land, but as for the rear....

4thgen rears will be more or less identical to what you have in your '92 right now, apart from brakes and width (and maybe carrier). Late thirdgens (either 90 or 91 through 92) got the 28 spline rear axles like 4thgens, so a 4thgen carrier could swap right in (I did this with a torsen out of a 2002, factory shims from the '02 even got the lash right in my rear). If the 3.90 gearset you have is made for a GM 7.5/ 7.625 rear, it will bolt right into a 4thgen rear, or your current rear as well. You WILL need to keep in mind the series of carrier you have, though... a series 2 (2.73 and numerically lower) diff carrier will not work with series 3 (3.23 and numerically higher) gears; the placement of the differential carrier's ring gear mount are slightly different between the two, but the rear ends that house them are the same.

For a budget, it indeed might make more sense for you to just buy a complete 4thgen rear axle, but do note that they are 28 spline just like your rear, not 31. 31 spline axles do exist on the aftermarket, but not from factory (except maybe in a rare case with a Firehawk or something, though my Torsen came out of a Firehawk and was 28 spline as well). The 4thgen rear disc swap is also possible on a thirdgen rear, and I did it a couple years back following the guide right here on TGO. Unfortunately, seems like the pictures have been lost to time now, but I've been thinking about making a new writeup to replace it. Took a fair amount of pictures during the swap and was able to avoid removing the drum backing plate nut by just chopping the top of the flange off with the backing plate still on! The tops of the flanges have to be cut anyways, just gotta watch the brake lines anyways, I digress; this swap is indeed possible, and honestly not too hard, but it might be a bit trickier to justify the price nowadays, unless you have a good junkyard near you. I spent around $200 on the rear brake swap in total, including new rotors/ pads/ caliper seals, but an entire axle probably wouldn't be too far off of that in cost if you shop around. The Torsen I picked up was actually from a Marketplace listing for an entire rear axle out of that '02 Firehawk; he wanted $125 for the entire axle (brakes included, which I unfortunately already had on hand), but I offered $100 for the Torsen since I didn't have a way to transport an entire axle at the time, drove 2 hours north and pulled it myself. Of course, with a 4thgen rear you also have to keep in mind that it'll be about 2" wider per side, so you may have some wheel poke in the back; not a huge deal though, plenty of folks here have run 'em with good results visually.

One last note: also keep in mind that not all 4thgen brakes are the same. 93-97 got pretty much the same thing that they put on the rear disc thirdgens, but 98-02 (EVERY 98-02, even V6 cars) got slightly newer style PBR brakes. The 98-02 brakes are what most folks mean when they talk 4thgen brakes, and you'll often see it referred to as the "LS1 disc swap". Bit of a misnomer, since they came on the 98-02 3.8 V6 cars as well, but they are indeed different from the 93-97 brakes. ALSO, since you have a '92, the brake line sizes will all be the same between what you have now, and what came on any 4thgen. GM had switched to metric for all the brake lines by 89 or 90, so you shouldn't have to touch any of your hardlines whether you swap axles or just the brakes 4thgen brake booster and master cyl will bolt right in as well, running mine off the stock hardlines and stock prop valve and all (with the "spring upgrade"... don't have the part number on hand, but there's an old trick where you can buy some springs meant for a Nerf gun and throw one in your prop valve to improve the balance... can't recall if it sends more pressure to the back or visa-versa, did that spring swap nearly a decade ago)

 

Thx for the info buddy. If I decide to use the fourth gig rear the 2 inch wide with width on each side will allow me to use Corvette rims and I think I can do the 8.5 in the front and 10.5 in the bag 9 dimension, like you said the proportionate valve spring trick I used one time before, but it was a long time ago and I have disk brakes and better stopping power. And as long as twenty eight splint axles will hold the power to that engines looking to put out and I am not looking to race , they should hold up , maybe I won't need thirty one splint

 

I'm excited maybe too excited. Hahahahahahaha

 

Yeah man, new builds are always exciting! Hoping for smooth sailing on your build, can't wait to see how it turns out!

Also just noticed that your sig mentions a 4thgen rear/ the prop valve spring for your '91, sounds like I'm preaching to the choir the 28 spline axles should hold up just fine if you aren't planning on launching the thing hard at a drag strip. If you're braking 28 spline axles, it'd probably be time to start looking into somethin beefier than a 10 bolt anyways

 

Did you look at the damper yet?

 

The damper won't necessarily tell if it's a 383. Specifically, it "could be" a 383, butt still "identify" as a 350 by that method. Butt I seriously doubt it.

In the old daze, the damper would identify it. All 383s HAD TO BE externally balanced back then, which of course includes the damper. In 2026 I'm pretty sure that AT LEAST HALF of all 383s are built with internal balance. The difference is, the original stock 400 used rods that were shorter than stock 350 rods (5.565" vs 5.700" nominal), and the pistons had the same compression height; thus, the sum of half the stroke plus the rod length, is the same in both motors. I'm guessing the reason for the pistons being the same CH, is that GM didn't want to compromise the ring package in any way (thinner rings, pack em closer together, move em upwards toward the piston crown, let the oil ring overlap the pin, etc.) in the 400 compared to the 350, therefore the pin has to be in the same place, so they were left with no choice butt to shorten the rods, which then, since adequate internal counterweights won't fit under the shorter rods, required external balance. With longer rods however, there CAN be enough room for adequate CWs, thus allowing a longer stroke without external balance. All that has to change is, some one or more of the above ring attributes (or some other), to allow the pin to move up higher in the piston. Most modern 383 packages are like this, especially for 1-pc RMS motors. Ext bal 383s are a vanishing breed these days.

OTOH, the cheeeeeeeeeepest thing that GM could sell in a box that said "engine" on the side (not necessarily even "new engine") and nobody would go to jail for fraud, is a SERIOUSLY UNLIKELY candidate for being turned into a 383. Not that it can't, or never has been, or ANY SUCH; only, it's SERIOUSLY UNLIKELY that somebody would buy that cheeeeeeeeeeepout POS they could get, and then hot-rod it that way, which would require a COMPLETE $$$internally balanced rotating assy$$$, which then would destroy THE ONLY good thing about that POS motor (the warranty), which (not to say that this would keep it from happening) would be a significant breach of common sense in several different ways.

Butt all that aside, It Is What It Is, remember? Doesn't make a damn bit of difference WHAT it is, since all it is, is the dumb motive force pushing the body around to the paint shop and in & out of the garage and whatnot, while you're saving up for your 6.2L swap. At this point it could be a 230 CID I-6 or an Iron Puke or the "LT-1" out of a 70 "Z/28", and it wouldn't matter if it got all that other done for you. Doesn't matter what it is. It Is What It Is, whatever that randomly happens to be; no more, no less, no matter.

 

Yep...it's not proof (if the damper is ROUND)...but it takes...IDK....20 seconds? to look at it? ...and if it ain't ROUND...then 100% chance, it's a 383.

Looking at that old dog of a motor, if it's a 383, 99% it's got an out of balance Damper on it. I'm not visualizing exotic balancing having been done to that thing.

 

If you use the "wayback machine" on archive.org you can usually find the photos:
https://web.archive.org/web/20161019...g/ls1reardisc/

 

I have not looked at the Damper yet, but I will look tomorrow.Gentlemen, thank you so much for all of your advice.I am going to put together a list of parts that I need and then i've already told my wife and my nephew that will probably be at least a year before i'm able to make a move , then again if I can get it done earlier this may be my christmas present. And I forgot I need to change my signature
keep it coming....
6.6 l8p/8hp70, 3.90 gear, ttop, Sounds good too.

 

Pretty sure that the OP was wondering if it's a 383. Before pulling the engine and then the pan to see what ya got....if it were ME...you can bet your azz that I would take a quick look a the damper.

IDK...I like to do as little work as possible, then sit back and enjoy a beverage in the time that I made for myself by being lazy.

 

So I noticed that you are interested in a L8P Gen V Small Block Chevy.
While I agree a modern Engine offers great benefits, I am hoping that you would consider a Gen IV or III Small Block Chevy instead.

When we designed the Gen III and IV Engines, GM put some effort into producing a decent product.
One of the best design features of these Engines is their Gasket Technology!
Really some of the best Gaskets created for an Engine. Comparatively they don't leak!
Honestly they are amazing compared to anything that the Gen I Small Block Chevy ever had.

Now the Gen V Engines, like the L8P; well...
They are simply JUNK!!!
(At least compared to the Gen IV and III Engines)
GM did not care about making a decent product this time... They just cared about it being as CHEAP as Possible!

And there are TONs of different examples why, that I could give you...
But the example that I am going to give you first...
Remember all those great sealing, excellent Gaskets that I mentioned?

Well for the Gen V Engines, GM threw away all those amazing gasket designs...
And replaced them ALL with a tube of RTV gasket maker!!!!!

 

I do have a 104k 6.0 and 862 heads begging for a 54-453-11 and I still think it would be killer with 3.90 and 6l80 3200 stall . But love the thought of being different

Come to think of it.I have another 6.0 LS engine with unknown mileage.That's just begging to be turning to a 408. And the extra stroke will still give me the torque want down low not to mention more than 400 cubic inches. I just need a decent machine shop near johnston county , north carolina. And I'll dump the money for the engine into getting the body painted.. now we're talkn a really BUDGET BUILD!!! i have the engine I have all of the bracketry.I even have the power steering pump that they don't have hooked up in the car , they just run the steering gear with nothing hooked to it. Not real smart. I have a carburetor the 750I even have a mechanical, or should I say hydraulic transmission, the 700 R4 that they were running with no TV cable hooked up again, not smart.\n The only thing I don't have is the 390 gears. And the radiator hooked up correctly once again , not smart , and it will definitely need some cooling fans on the radiator that actually have a fan shroud connected to it last but not least not smart

 

The only thing I would really need is a spark controller.\n Make sure all the gages work or after market gages, make sure the speedometer works, it probably doesn't.\n Back up for L80. To take the place of the seven hundred r , when it takes a dump 92 mention the gears in the bag and a stall and the camshaft kit with bow Springs, a new oil pump, and a carburetor intake.If I decide not to use the fuel injection.If I do decide to use the fuel injection , what holly system would you run?

 

Yup. Very true. He was indeed.

OTOH, it doesn't matter. It Is What It Is. Sure, we all like to "know" stuff; butt in the end, "knowing" things like that, is all about making decisions for the future. At some point it's like the people that want to look up the suffix code on their transplanted engine block to find out "what their engine came out of". Sure, we'd all like to "decode" block "codes" on random engines, butt what difference does it make on some random mid 70s 350 or the like? Does that cast iron "remember" somehow its former glory days as a 76 Malibu 350 2-bbl? Is that gonna change what cam you're gonna order to get rid of the "300HP 327" POS that some yutz put in it without raising its compression above 8:1? Does it change what heads will fit? Does it determine what exhaust system you need to hook up to it or what carb or FI system would be the best to use on it? NO. In this case however, since the OP has no intention whatsoever of using this engine for ANYTHING in the future, it doesn't matter. Since his avowed intent is to swap in something COMPLETELY else and using no part of it, IT DOESN'T MATTER. It's a chase after shiny things laying out there in the weeds somewhere well off the straight and narrow path leading to accomplishment. It's a useless distraction that provides him no benefit.

My favorite kind of work is the kind I don't do at all. I like that even better than the kind I can get other people to do for me. Sure, if I HAVE TO do some, I'd also like for it to be as little as possible, and eeeeeezy and painless and whatnot; butt if I don't HAVE TO, I'd just as soon NOT. Which is my point here: NOT ONLY is determining whether it's a 383 or not irrelevant to his future with the car, BUTT ALSO, anything he can tell from outside the engine, is INCONCLUSIVE, except in the unlikely case that the damper is for ext bal. Meanwhile, he's got the cheeeeeepest "new" engine he could possibly have, which somebody that bought that, is highly unlikely to have done anything to "improve"; that kind of buyer generally chooses such a motor for the warranty that comes with it (MUCH more comprehensive than a "rebuild" would usually have), and is typically looking to buy it, slap it in, and drive the car, not totally gut the block (thereby voiding the warranty s/he paid extra for) and replace its entire innards for "performance". Although of course, we have no way of knowing that there aren't 2 POs involved; one that bought & installed the motor and later sold the car or the motor on, and another that used THE BLOCK as a platform to build some whole other motor onto. We don't, for example, know what heads are on it, which would be another potential indication of later re-use. Butt in the end IMO the whole "383" bit sounds like typical used-car-seller drivel and diarrhea of the mouth, designed to ensnare and deceive.

So yeah, he could go ahead and look, and MAYBE he'd see something conclusive, butt whether it's a 383 or not doesn't change the goal of his project in any manner way shape form or fashion, and as such is just a waste of time and effort, diverting him from his actual project. If I was the betting kind (which you know I'm not) I'd be willing to bet that he'll find a neutral damper, which tells him nothing, anyway.

 

Damper is completely perfectly round

 

OK, so not an ext bal 383

Maybe an int bal 383

99.9999% likely it's the "Goodwrench" 350, unaltered; and all the "383" monkey spank from the seller is just that, monkey spank

 

• The damper is perfectly round• The water pump is not plugged on top, its rubber capped and leaking • the fuel line (plain rubber) comes from under the car runs beside the headers in front of the dri ers side head to a plastic fuel filter and then 2 short pieces of hose to the carb. • no coolant reservoir • hose barb from radiator to lost reservoir is uncapped• 700r4 TV cable not connected, (car was driven like this)• no power steering pump• steering gear not plugged (car was driven like this) • Carb has no air filter (driven open)• original fuel lines just left open • all original engine wiring stuffed beside passenger header• starter is hit and miss. Spins and then when it feels like it turns engine over• rad cooling fans have no shroud• cooling fans dont have switch, instead they operate off some sort of thermister rheostat 🤷‍♂️• Hatch pull down doesn't work This is just what I noticed in about 6min. LITERALLY

 

What i have on hand:

• (2) 6.0ls engines *1 unknown mileage. 1 with known 103k

• Set of 862 heads & set of 317 (stock springs)
All 6L brackets, accessories, intakes and bolts.

• 700r4 in car now 🤷‍♂️ car moves 🤷‍♂️, when it detonates then BUILT 700r4

• 600 holley vac sec. w/ elct choke and 750 holley w / 1in spacer on car



Going to use: **what am I missing?*
- 103k 6.0
- 54-453-11 cam w/ matching springs
- Oil pump, timing set, 862s thin gaskets
- Speed engineering long headers
- Muscle car oil pan
- Ict motor mount adaptor
- Dual plane carb intake
- 750 that is on car now
- Stock k member/tranny x member
- Front end alignment
- 3.90 gear posi - disc, fourthgen rear
- Black widow venom exhaust 2.5in tru dual, bow tie tips
- Aluminum rad, w/dual shrouded fans

I'm sure there's a lot that I am not listing (spark controller?) that I am going to use but I am getting tired. I've worked all day, but I should get the car up and running before thing before Christmas. And before I install anything, I'm first going to work on getting the car painted. Will the three inch cowl. After I get rid of th e rubber fuel hoses

 

Which 6.0L motors do you have? (LQ4 or LQ9) LQ4 has dish pistons, LQ9 flat-tops, both came w 317 heads. LQ9 w 862 heads will put the compression into the stratosphere. Even with LQ4 and those heads, the CR might be so high as to be untuneable with a carb. Thin gaskets are unnecessary. IMO the smallest heads to use would be 243/799, and even then, tuning it with a carb will be a mother, esp if the motor you use is a LQ9. LQ9 w 243 heads is basically an iron block LS2.

That cam - all the LSRs, really - is for square-port heads. It'll "work" somewhat "OK" with cathedral ports butt isn't ideal. Way too much exh duration. Cathedrals usually work their best w about 6 - 8° split between int & exh. 219° int duration is largely OK, a bit on the smallish side if anything, butt will add to the CR/detonation/spark-knock problem.

I'd suggest a stall. Since you have one in another car, you already know how much difference one of those can make.

 

Both Lq4

I HAD, a car. Super sweet a lot of fun. If I told yall that story some of u would laugh but so.e would cry. This time im the one going under my hood. That's why I said " i want to do it right this time."

This time im getting it right. Thx fellas

 

I forgot.I have some 243 heads, but they're completely bare.I don't know anything about them.I bought them off of ebay for our three hundred dollars years ago. I\nAlso, still have the truck intakes.Although to fit under a stockhol, I'm gonna have to use something like the LS3M intakes.\nBut if I put a cow hood on , I can use the truck intake even if it is ugly. Holdener uses the 454 cam i wanted to be a little smaller hoping it would be more streetable

 

Pretty sure the valves out of 317s will fit. They're still just stock valves, not very good or anything, butt might be an option.

A square-port intake doesn't fit cathedral ports worth a crap.

You'll be driving around with the hood on and closed, so NBD there.

Problem with the cam you picked, isn't the "size", so much as the split between intake and exhaust duration. The "size" - intake duration - is reasonable, maybe even slightly on the smallish side. What it is, is that it's gonna start opening the exh valve before the piston is much past halfway down, reducing cyl pressure (motive force) to ZERO while it could still be doing useful work. Since stock cathedral port heads aren't near as heavily biased toward int flow as rect ports are, they don't need the "crutch" of the extra exh duration, to allow effective cyl fill with fresh A/F mixture. All that will do for you is, reduce torque and power at all times by letting that much extra pressure unnecessarily out that COULD be producing power, make the headers get hotter and the exhaust louder, and make the engine use more fuel to do the same work.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/234219770513 Best price ive found so far: Richmond gear, yukon locker

 

Holy crap., ok i need someone who knows camshaft to spec one for me. The info is here and I dont race. I just want to pin my wife to the seat with ease when in 2nd gear and passing gear. U know, scare her and then have a little fun all while rumpity rump in idle. Breaking traction at 35mph doesn't hurt either

 

If you are serious about a 6L80 you do not want 390 gears . The 6L80 has a 4 to1 first gear , I went with 331 gears and that was borderline to much , 308 might be good.

 

If you are serious about a 6L80 you do not want 390 gears . The 6L80 has a 4 to1 first gear , I went with 331 gears and that was borderline to much , 308 might be good.

 

10-4 6l80 is a dream. I very well might be doing either built 700r4 or 4l60 just depends on whether going carb or not. 1st gear in those is 3.06. I forgot the formula for the math.

 

Speaking from some intensive facebook window shopping for the last 3+ months, just about every clapped out 3rd gen "has a 383" in it.

 

10-4 z85

 

And I didn't mean that as a slight on anyone or anything BTW, just want to clarify that! I wrote it out hastily while checkin the boards between meetings.

 

Yeah, the "383" thing is kinda the new "350"... "told me it was outta a Vette, gotta be a 350, runs too good to be a 305", lop-eared high school kid falls for the sucker line and buys it, posts on here, it turns out it's a 201 block or something... musta happened near a million times by now

 

Hahahahaha no worries. Ha, I actually fell for that one b4. Haahahhahahayeah its a 350 he wouldn't lie to me. That's why it has soooo much torque. Hahahah

 

Well, looks like it's getting ready to be A 6.0LS gen 3 motor I gotta figure out what cam I need to use other than that, it's gonna have 862 heads, a new oil pump, new timing set, ls7 lifters, I'm not touching the bottom end, I am absolutely positively not touching the bottom end. I have all of the bracketry. I have all of the accessories, I even have AC compressor for an ls and one for a 350 (I think). I just need to figure out how to get everything attached and how long this 700r4 will last IF they haven't blown it up already.

 

Do any of you agree with this? Or disagree?

https://www.google.com/search?q=What...e-gws-wiz-serp

Remember I want to be able to pin the wife in the seat at about 35-40mph. Hahaha