Okay...I have a GM Goodwrench 350 with 72cc heads, 1.94/1.6 valves. The hydralic cam has a weak .390/.410" lift and 195/202 duration. I'm assuming the cam has to go. 8.5 CR and LM1 block w/ 4 bolt main caps. The mods are an Edelbrock 600 cfm carb, Edelbrock performer intake, and a Mallory distributer will be in next week I hope. Behind it is a built turbo 350 tranny with 5500 rpm shifts and a 2500 rpm conv. leading to a stock, open, 2.73 rear.

What engine mods are going to get me where I want (mid-high 13's)? I have a very low budget and have never done engine internals. I want to get the SLP posi unit with some 3.42's which should help a great deal. This car is also a daily driver so nothing too extreme.

I appreciate any help or expiriances,
Matt

 

The cam definatly, maybe 1.6 RR while your at it. You can get the heads milled a bit so you can bump the compression up a bit. A carb spacer is iffy. For some reason, they work magic on some engines but hurt others. I have seen as much as a 20 hp increase with a spacer. Port the heads while you've got them off. Headers will help alot with the cam.

 

I got the same motor as you. I went with 3:73s which is way out of the power band of the cam. That's why I'm getting a new one, see sign. With the cam and intake I should be right at 14.0 .

 

Right there. The jump from 2:73's to 3:42 will probably make you let loose in your pants its that dramatic!

I dident look at your sig long enough but I'll assume you already have an automatic. Stick with the 700r4 unless its toasted and a TH350 is your only savoir $$$$. The 700r4 has great gear selection. This wide range of gears alonge with a real rear end ratio is perfect! I would hold off on the tranny if possible. Me personally I just installed a 700r4 replacing a TH350 and I would never go back!!
If you want to get the most out of your car then the cam and carb should be upgradded. Cam selection is really up to you. Melling makes great cams MTC-1 and MTC-2 are two cams that provide great power and wont suck that much more gas than a stock cam. The MTC-1 is a considered a truck rv cam but it makes plenty of power uptop! @.50 204int 214exh. The MTC-2 is somthing around 208int 218exh, more of a highperf job, but nothing radical. The carb is a bit small, a 700cfm carb would be better suited for your 13 sec goal.

SSC

 

I already have the Turbo-350 and just had it rebuilt with new pumps and stronger clutches so changing trannys would be pointless. I've also heard that the 350's outperform in drag racing the 700 becouse of the closer 1-2 gears. In fact in a Super Chevy I have an '83 or '82 Camaro that is built for racing switched his 700 for a 350 and he said it was the best mod he did, gaining 4 thenths.

Now costs, I have a great speed shop a few minutes away that specializes in head porting (they built the eninge for that charger in The Fast & Furious). How much should I expect to spend if I have them clean up my heads? Should I give my intake so they can match it to the heads too? What about giving them my car so they can dyno it and tune it? How much does that usually cost?

As far as cams, how are the Crane Blazer cams, there low price is very attractive and they are hydralic. Would a 284/294 dur. - .465/.488" lift cam be too radical for my application? That's not too much lift for my stock heads is it? Also I've never done valetrain work, how much would it cost for the shop to put on those RRs? I'll probubly upgrade rods while I'm at it too.

Thanks for the replies :rockon: ,
Matt

 

Roller rockers won't make a big difference on this engine. The cam you've selected seems like it is well matched to the stall and 3.42 gears.

Be careful how much you spend on the heads. Spending $400 on port work, plus what you could sell them for, is adding up to a pair of good aluminum heads.

The 700R4 is another example of GM's emissions control bs. Like in the 6 speed where you are forced to shift from 1st to 4th (which dramatically drops the engine revs) the ratio change from 1st to 2nd in the 700R4 is also power robbing. It is possible to get a steeper 2nd gear installed to overcome this. This is the reason that the 350 is not available with a 5 speed... not because of too much torque. More revs = more fuel = more pollution.

 

NITROUS!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ahhhhhhhhhhhh yeah baby!! 100 shot or so w/ a good posi is good for 1.5 seconds!!!

 

do NOT buy a Crane Blazer... In fact i recommend you stay AWAY from crane alltogether.
I have a crane blazer in my car, 224/234 @ .050, .466/.488 Lift LCA@114

I HATE IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:nono: :nono: :nono:
Ill make the reason short:
#1: ANTI PUMP UP LIFTERS = Loss of Lopiness + Idle Problems = Car idling at 1000 RPMS but sounding stock as hell. NOT TO MENTION I LOST OVER 75 HORSEPOWER from my old cam, a performer RPM 234/244 @ .050 .488/.512 Lift LCA @ 110

Crane SUX Ive got less than 300 Miles on the cam And im removing it in less than 1 week and buying a comp cam with real lifters.

 

Anyone else had this problem. How about the Comp Cam (Magnum) 270H/.470" lift or 280H/.480" lift? I'm not much for Nitrous. I'm a kinda "All engine, All the time" guy. I tried to call the speed shop but they closed at 5 o'clock. I'll try and get an estimate tommarow.

Thanks for your help and keep 'em comming,
Matt

 

oh yea comp magnums are nice as hell. you will find the 280H pretty rough idle. My friend has one. You choose 270H is more mild, alot more apparently. the 280H would make hella power from around 1500 RPMS up he would dump the clutch about 2K with drag radials it would light em up the car would fishtail and he was gone. Till my turbo spooled that is, then i waved goodbye.

 

I'm not doubting you LottaBalls, but how did a spacer give 20hp, and/or how was that measured? That's pretty unbelievable..

 

Damn, is that myth still floating around? Its cuz of the torque, really it is. The T5 is rated for 310 ft/lbs of torque. The 350 makes 350 ft/lbs. Too much. GM wont warranty that, so no T5 with a 350. Got it?

Now that is out of the way, a friend of mine has one of those engines. His is TPI with Edelbrock headers, 3.73 gears, and on 18" street tires, he recently went 15.12 @ ~90 MPH at 1200' altitude. Thats 14's at sea level and better traction. He's planning on changing the cam for sure.
You need better gears and a posi unit to start with, before you touch the engine. Do you have the stock 84 rear end? If so, the SLP posi unit wont fit. You have 26 spline axles, and the SLP uses 28 spline axles. You can buy 28 spline axles from Moser, and drop them in just fine with the SLP posi. Or you can swap rear ends from another thirdgen (or even 4th gen).

Good luck!

 

I don't know if I have the stock rear, there are no tags, but I doubt someone would swamp in a open rear if they were doing a swamp. Axles are pretty expensive, so would I be better off going with a differant posi unit that usues 26 spline axles? How hard is it to replace axles or swamp the rear. Again, this is all going to be done on a budget, so I really need the "best bang for the buck."

Thanks again,
Matt

 

Okay...I've narrowed my options down. I'm going with the:
Crane Magnum Cam - $160 with lifters and lube
Mac exhaust and Cat - $400
Hedman Headers and Y-pipe - $200
Heads and Intake ported - $200?
Misc. gaskets and stuff - $100

Then comes the rear...

I could...
#1 - get a rear from another thirgen at the junkyard with posi ($100) and put 3.42's ($150) in there = $250
#2 - buy a posi unit from Richmond or someone ($350) and gears ($150) for $300
#3 - get a spool ($150) and gears ($150) for $300

Which one should I go with? Do you think I'll hit 13's after this?

Ahggg...there goes my savings account!'

-Matt

 

Since changing gears or posi units is a complicated process that requires special tools and knowledge, I'd recommend getting a complete rear end and swapping it. Thats easy enough.