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failing emissions...please help

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Old Feb 23, 2002 | 04:25 PM
  #1  
SLOW91TA305's Avatar
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From: Chicago
failing emissions...please help

hey...i searched through the old archives but was unable to find any useful info...

I just failed my 6th emissions test in chicago.
my Hydrocarbons were 1.62...needs to be 0.80

This is a 91 TA 305 with TPI.

I recently replaced the cat, plugs, pcv valve, oxygen sensor, and cleaned out my TPI intake of all the carbon deposites. My HC used to be 12.80.

Unfortunatly I'm unable to get the number any lower.

I ran injector cleaner through it...My EGR valve seems to be good. I didnt take it off, but the vacume seems to open and close when I squeeze it.

I also ran the computer diagnostic. No codes. Everything with the ecm seems to be good.

Here are my emission results and chart. They look like crap with my browser but you should be able to see it if you save it to your harddrive to view it and enlarge.

I would appreciate any help anyone has to offer. Any sites with emissions troubleshooting would be helpful also.

http://home.attbi.com/~aaronsox/emissions.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~aaronsox/chart.jpg
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Old Feb 23, 2002 | 06:30 PM
  #2  
FstBrd6point3's Avatar
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From: Middleburry, CT, USA
my brother failed for that in his T-bird, kick yer timing back, maybe even retard it, ince the computer electronicly advances it and run a 195 degree thermostat, since everyhting else is new that is bout all ya have left I would guess. . . . you could always try and run some kind of alcohol mix if all else fails. . . and I dunno bout where you are (chicago right?), but in CT if you spend 400 or more on emsissions and you still fail you get a vaiver from the DMV, just need to have a licensed shop sign off. good luck dude
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Old Feb 23, 2002 | 06:43 PM
  #3  
SLOW91TA305's Avatar
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From: Chicago
Thanks...Since I did the work myself...I still have $250 left to go.

I heard about retarding the timing from someone else. I never did that before. How far back should I go? Can I tell by the sound of the engine if its enough? Also, which way is retarted? Clockwise or counter clockwise?

One more question. Whats the ideal temp for my car? Ideal for emissions that is.
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Old Feb 23, 2002 | 09:21 PM
  #4  
SLOW91TA305's Avatar
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From: Chicago
here is some more info if anyone wants to help me...

I ran my scan tool and here are some results

TPS was 0.58 Volts at closed throttle
BLM was 113
Coolent Temp changed from 180 to 230 degrees F
IAC was 031 at idle
The injector pulse width was 1.7ms at idle
Loop status was closed
MAP volts were 1.70V at idle
MAP was 12 IHG at idle
MAT was 140 degrees F
The Spark Adv bounced between 11 - 19 degrees at idle but jumped to 30 degrees when I rev'd the engine

I read somewhere that when the BLM (Block Learn) is over 138 the engine is running lean and if its under 118...its rich. Well mine was 113. So is this an ECM problem or a problem with a sensor?

Thanks...hopes this helps someone.
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Old Feb 23, 2002 | 11:10 PM
  #5  
RedFirebird's Avatar
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From: San Rafael, CA
Car: 1988 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 5.7L TPI (L98)
Transmission: 700RJunk
A blm of 113 means the ECM is subtracting fuel to acheive the ideal a/f mixture ie rich. You are in fact running rich and the computer knows that and is trying to do something about, so i'd think all the sensors and computer are ok, except for that MAP sensor (?). that 12 inHg at idle shown by MAP sensor means either a)the MAP sensor is bad or b)you have a bad vacuum leak. You should be pulling 20 inches of vacuum at idle. I don't know much about speed density systems but that MAP sensor is a very important sensor (like the MAF sensor is with the earlier maf systems). Assuming you don't have a vacuum leak, if its getting a reading of 12inHg at idle, the computer thinks there is more air flowing through the manifold than there actually is and would cause a rich mixture. The computer can compensate to an extent but it doesn't help. I'm no expert, just my .02.

Last edited by RedFirebird; Feb 23, 2002 at 11:15 PM.
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