Front End Knock
#1
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Location: Wichita, KS
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Car: 92' RS
Engine: LO3
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9-bolt
Front End Knock
I hear and feel a hard knock on the floor. It seems like its comming from the front, near the drivers side wheel. The faster I go the quicker the knocks become until I reach about 40MPH then it goes away. I already checked the lugs. I;m thinking suspension but have no idea what it could be.
This is on my 89 Grand Marquis~Can't wait till it stops snowing then I can get my reliable camaro to drive
This is on my 89 Grand Marquis~Can't wait till it stops snowing then I can get my reliable camaro to drive
#2
Shearn,
IIRC, the "Grandma Key" is the Merc version of the Ford "Drowned Clitoria", right?
Check the wheel bearings A.S.A.P! Also inspect the rotor for warpage and cracks (especially cracks). If you haven't repacked the bearing for 20,000 miles, you should be doing it anyway.
It's also possible that the caster angle is so far out that the front wheel is doing the "shopping cart thing" until there is sufficient road friction from the speed, where it would tend to load more and stabilize. If that's the case, you should check ALL front end components for wear. That constant wobble would tend to beat up the steering and suspension to the point of failure.
You really should repair this, even though it's only a Ford. We'd like to have you around to drive your "real" car later this year.
IIRC, the "Grandma Key" is the Merc version of the Ford "Drowned Clitoria", right?
Check the wheel bearings A.S.A.P! Also inspect the rotor for warpage and cracks (especially cracks). If you haven't repacked the bearing for 20,000 miles, you should be doing it anyway.
It's also possible that the caster angle is so far out that the front wheel is doing the "shopping cart thing" until there is sufficient road friction from the speed, where it would tend to load more and stabilize. If that's the case, you should check ALL front end components for wear. That constant wobble would tend to beat up the steering and suspension to the point of failure.
You really should repair this, even though it's only a Ford. We'd like to have you around to drive your "real" car later this year.
#3
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Car: 92' RS
Engine: LO3
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9-bolt
Well, I got under her and found that both tie rods are shot. The inner rod on the drivers side has about an inch of play . The passesnger side has about a half inch. Which is also causing the alignment to be off naturally. I can't imagine what would happen if the thing went going 70 down the highway.
Chris
Darn Fords, nothin but problems
(tie rods, shocks, fuel pump, door handles, stalling, radio, <- all malfunctioning in some way)
Chris
Darn Fords, nothin but problems
(tie rods, shocks, fuel pump, door handles, stalling, radio, <- all malfunctioning in some way)
#4
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Car: 92' RS
Engine: LO3
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9-bolt
Is a 'tie rod end' the same as a tie rod? I'm looking for replacement parts and only see the tie rod end.
#5
92,
At most parts houses, all you're going to get are the ends. You'll ahve to re-use your existing tie rod sleeves. Count the number of turns required to remove the failed end, and thread the replacement end into the sleeve the same nuber of turns. Remember that one is a right-hand thread and one is a left-hand thread on each side. The alignment should be as close to correct as it was before the damage occurred.
Incidentally, when you order tie rod ends, order a case of penetrating oil and a small can of anti-seize compound. After you use half of the case of penetrating oil to get the old sleeves loose, you'll figure out what to do with the anti-seize with no problem.
And don't stop there. Once the tie rods are repaired, you still need to check the rest of the steering and suspension for worn parts. Got grease?
At most parts houses, all you're going to get are the ends. You'll ahve to re-use your existing tie rod sleeves. Count the number of turns required to remove the failed end, and thread the replacement end into the sleeve the same nuber of turns. Remember that one is a right-hand thread and one is a left-hand thread on each side. The alignment should be as close to correct as it was before the damage occurred.
Incidentally, when you order tie rod ends, order a case of penetrating oil and a small can of anti-seize compound. After you use half of the case of penetrating oil to get the old sleeves loose, you'll figure out what to do with the anti-seize with no problem.
And don't stop there. Once the tie rods are repaired, you still need to check the rest of the steering and suspension for worn parts. Got grease?
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