Help! Putting TPI V-6 into MGB!!!
Help! Putting TPI V-6 into MGB!!!
Yes, I know it sounds ludicrous. Yes, I know it'll be a real pain. But it'll also be a blast to drive. I've got a '92 Firebird parts car that was hit in the side and totalled. The V-6 and Auto are still in excellent shape (approx 85K miles). I've also got a '75 MGB Roadster with crap for a drivetrain. I want to put the V-6 Auto in the little MG. Now, I know I'll have to pretty much make the motor mounts, driveshaft, trans crossmember, yada, yada, yada. I have no qualms with that. But, how do you get the injection system to work? Isn't it computer controlled? I can work on carb cars all day long, but I don't have much experience with Injection. What will I have to do to make the system work?
Thanks in advance......:hail:
Thanks in advance......:hail:
832,
You'll need to install all the engine sensors with the replacement engine and transmission. You'll also need to find a place to mount the ECM unit close enough to the engine to allow the wire harness to reach. The unit is in the passenger side foot well in your 'F' car. You should be able to exist without a cat converter, however, so the exhaust customization could actually be relatively simple.
There's very little doubt that you'll need heavier front springs on the little 'B', and probably a modified (turbo bulged) hood to clear the industion system.
You'll also need to have a higher pressure fuel pump to pressurize the fuel rail for the injectors. You could install an in-line pump to accomplish that. As long as the engine doesn't get heavy modifications, you should run just fine with the original ECM and PROM/CALPAK.
You'll need to install all the engine sensors with the replacement engine and transmission. You'll also need to find a place to mount the ECM unit close enough to the engine to allow the wire harness to reach. The unit is in the passenger side foot well in your 'F' car. You should be able to exist without a cat converter, however, so the exhaust customization could actually be relatively simple.
There's very little doubt that you'll need heavier front springs on the little 'B', and probably a modified (turbo bulged) hood to clear the industion system.
You'll also need to have a higher pressure fuel pump to pressurize the fuel rail for the injectors. You could install an in-line pump to accomplish that. As long as the engine doesn't get heavy modifications, you should run just fine with the original ECM and PROM/CALPAK.
Thanks Vader. That souns simple enough. I've just rebuilt the front end with new springs urethane bushings etc. so maybe the new springs will hold up. It already has an inline elec. fuel pump that someone put in when the original went bad, and the hood is crap any way, so it might be neat to put some kind of scoop or something on it. The ECM, what do I do, just make sure it has power and it'll tell the engine what to do?
Zman
Zman
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 3,197
Likes: 10
From: Manassas VA
Car: 04 GTO
Engine: LS1
Transmission: M12 T56
Yeah, it's really pretty basic really. You need a high pressure fuel pump for the injection (don't forget a relay to switch it), running a new feed and return line as well.
As for running the engine, thats easy. Your parts car uses what is known as a speed density ECM. This is desireable because it doesn't have the difficult to position (for a swap) and expensive MAF sensor. You should try and locate an aftermarket wiring harness so that you don't have to spend a lot of time trying to seperate the ECM and main wiring harness of the parts car. If not then you'll just have to spend some time working on it to make it come out nice. Thats about it, put the ECM somehwere it won't get wet.
The AIR stuff (emmisions, not AC) can all be deleted. The ECM shouldn't have any problem with it disconnected. That'll save you valuable space.
As for running the engine, thats easy. Your parts car uses what is known as a speed density ECM. This is desireable because it doesn't have the difficult to position (for a swap) and expensive MAF sensor. You should try and locate an aftermarket wiring harness so that you don't have to spend a lot of time trying to seperate the ECM and main wiring harness of the parts car. If not then you'll just have to spend some time working on it to make it come out nice. Thats about it, put the ECM somehwere it won't get wet.
The AIR stuff (emmisions, not AC) can all be deleted. The ECM shouldn't have any problem with it disconnected. That'll save you valuable space.
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