i know you guys are tired of hearing about this, but my bird still wont start. when its cold, its fine, i starts right up but will stall when i come to stop sign or something. when shes warm, it wont fire. the engine turns over flawlessly, the injectors just aren't shooting fuel into the TB. the fuel pump and relay are good because i hear it kick on when i turn the key. what gives?

BTW, i pull a code 12- everything should be fine, right?

 

this may not even apply to you, but my car had a similar problem. I used to just pull the vats fuse and turn it over, if it wouldnt start id put it back in and try again and walla. another thing is maybe the gasket under the TB is rotten. Mine woulnt start for nothing untill we replaced the gasket and now not a problem at all. except the tranny. I dont know if that would cause it not to shoot gas but thats all i can tell ya. Good luck.

 

While the car is cold, pull the coil wire off the coil. Have someone
crank it over and note the spark jumping from the coil. Put it back
together and start it up. Run it till it dies then check the spark
again. If there is no spark or very little spark, replace the pickup
coil in the distributor. They tend to exhibit this symptom when
they are dying, when they get hot the signal degrades and the
spark will get weak and will not send a stong enough signal to
the ECM to fire the injectors. When you start it with the starting
fluid and keep the rpm's up the pickup will send a stronger signal,
when the rpm's drop the signal falls off and the ECM kills the
injectors.

 

Nasty,

Remember this from your other post?

"...injector pulses are timed and triggered by the distributor reference pulses. The engine has to be cranking to deliver starting fuel, and the ECM needs to know that. Check your electrical connections to the distributor to make sure they are clean and tight."

Part of this is important to the ECM since the reference pulses are used to time the injector pulses. The pulses are generated by the pickup coil/reluctor, as described by Swapmaster. (He described the operation very well.) You can test the pickup coil with an ohmmeter when cold, then hot. The resistance between the leads should be between 500-1,500 ohms, with infinite resistance to ground from either lead. You may also want to inspect the reluctor for cracks or excessive corrosion. While you're there you should check the connections to the HEI module. You should also test the resistance of the capacitor in the distributor base (if equipped). Capacitors can also be sensitive to temperature and break down when hot.

If this doesn't reveal anything definitive, you may be at the point where you'll need some more speciailized diagnostic equipment to determine if there are any reference pulses, and whether there are any injector pulses at all. An oscilloscope or 'noid tester may be helpful.

And just to remove all variables, it may be a good idea to change back to the stock EPROM while you diagnose this problem.

 

well Vader my friend, you've been a great supply of help and ideas. i just came in from the garage after i got it fixed. turns out you were right and it was something in the distrubutor, be it the pick up coil, or the ingnition thingy, i replaced the whole thing, and it works. thanx alot

 

What, no kudo's for me?
LOL!