Vader... can I speak to you on the phone???Anyone???
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 225
Likes: 1
From: St. Louis, MO
Car: Z06, WS6
Engine: LS6, LT1
Transmission: M6
Vader... can I speak to you on the phone???Anyone???
All i did was pulled the throttle body off... polished the top, replaced the gasket. Didn't adjust anything, I sprayed any water out of the connection befor connecting again. First I threw a 33... a minute later a 36, and the only time I touched the MAF was to remove it. Exhaust smells bad. Getting a 98 v tps setting in drive, 145 IAC. MAF gr/sec around 3000. I just tried leaving the house... drove for a few minutes then it kept trying to die, everytime I gave it gas, couldn't go any faster then 10 MPH, and if I gave it more gas, i heard a pop as if it's missing . It idles at 1500!!!. Threw no codes before I pulled the throttle body. I tried adjusting the tps and it did nothing. HELP HELP HELP.
I need to get back to college tomorrow.
If anyone can help...please call 309 925 3066... ask for Ryan.
I'd really really appreciate it.
I need to get back to college tomorrow.
If anyone can help...please call 309 925 3066... ask for Ryan.
I'd really really appreciate it.
Last edited by yellowiroc2; Mar 17, 2002 at 03:45 PM.
Yeah that sounds bad. Did you make sure the bolts are real tight on the throttle body? All THREE air lines going to it are in tact? The bellows on the MAF are secured well?
Spray some carb cleaner around the suspect area to see if you've got a vacuum leak, then search for it if you do. That's all I can think of that would give the code 33, besides a bad MAF sensor. Try disconnecting the MAF and driving with it. The car should run with it disconnected, and much better than you described. If it does run, start off cleaning the sensor and replacing the relays. If this doesn't work it may be a dead sensor.
Spray some carb cleaner around the suspect area to see if you've got a vacuum leak, then search for it if you do. That's all I can think of that would give the code 33, besides a bad MAF sensor. Try disconnecting the MAF and driving with it. The car should run with it disconnected, and much better than you described. If it does run, start off cleaning the sensor and replacing the relays. If this doesn't work it may be a dead sensor.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 225
Likes: 1
From: St. Louis, MO
Car: Z06, WS6
Engine: LS6, LT1
Transmission: M6
The car hardly runs at all without the MAF connected. Would something so simple as TPS make my car run like this. It tries to die everytime I touch the gas. I doubt I'll be able to make it to the chevy garage without towing.
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Posts: n/a
.98v TPS in drive? Thats a problem right there. Disconnect the TPS and see how it runs. If you got the TPS wet, it may have ruined it. They do not take well to water at all.
Oh, and if it is the TPS thats the problem, you can drive it for a bit with it disconnected but its gonna run a little funny until the ECM gets used to reading off the MAF only.
Oh, and if it is the TPS thats the problem, you can drive it for a bit with it disconnected but its gonna run a little funny until the ECM gets used to reading off the MAF only.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 225
Likes: 1
From: St. Louis, MO
Car: Z06, WS6
Engine: LS6, LT1
Transmission: M6
I messed with the TPS to get a .74 in drive. Still with symptoms....code 36 went away. I made it to the chevy garage 20 minutes away, but I have to keep the rpms below 2500 or else it'll start sputtering and won't drive like it was before I crossed the 2500 mark. WEIRD MAN!!! They're supposed to call back when they find out. Yea... I did get the TPS wet and probably the IAC but blew it all out with an air compressor before reinstalling. Pray for me it's not the MAF. I don't want o buy a junk one from Autozone nor do I feel like paying 250 for GMs.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 225
Likes: 1
From: St. Louis, MO
Car: Z06, WS6
Engine: LS6, LT1
Transmission: M6
They just called and said it was the TPS. I had checked it last night and when I opened up to wide open throttle, it would barely increase... sometimes decrease. They will charge 1.3 hours 62 an hour) to fix it, 20 for diagnosis and the sensor alone is 60 bucks not in stock. Should I have them do it just in case that isn't the problem. Wouldn't I have gotten a code 22?
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