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Which parts should I get?

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Old Mar 22, 2002 | 12:51 AM
  #1  
Confuzed1's Avatar
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From: GO PACK GO
Car: 83Z28 HO
Engine: Magnacharged Dart Little M 408
Transmission: G Force 5 speed
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" w/Detroit Trutrac
Which parts should I get?

Well, I am trying to decide what else I am going to do with this car. I would kinda like to get a set of T.E.S. headers to fit my 4-bolt flange on my CAT, or a set of the Pacesetters from JC of Whitney(if they have a Y-pipe with a four bolt flange).

I am also looking for a decent shifter for the T-5. I have heard good and bad between the Ripper and Pro-5.0. I know B&M makes the "Ripper", but I haven't seen the Pro 5.0 advertised anywhere. But I hear it's a nice shifter also....

Looking to get it painted...the first estimate I got was 3,000 bucks to take out any dings, applt sealing primer, and a base coat/clear coat of charcoal gray with silver ground effects. That's quite a chunk of change for a car that's only worth around 2,000 tops in excellent condition. Should I look around for something cheaper? What's good and bad about MAACO? Just hunting for some opinions.

:lala:

Last edited by Confuzed1; Mar 22, 2002 at 12:53 AM.
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Old Mar 22, 2002 | 10:58 AM
  #2  
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C-1,

I can't help you with the headers or shifter, since some of that is just personal preference.

About the painting, however, I know that Maaco can do a bargain-basement paint service (just a little better than the old Earl Schieb $19.95 special), or can turn out some really nice work. Obviously, you'll pay more for the really nice work, but most of the cost of painting a car is in the preparation. If you can perform a lot of the prep work yourself, you can save yourself a lot of cash. If you provide the paint, you may save a few more dollars and get exactly what you want. Just make sure the painter knows exactly what you have and has all the instructions, or you could be disappointed.

Call the shop manager and ask about your options. You might be surprised about the cost if you don't mind doing most of the wetsanding before you drop the car off. And being in a hurry will cost you as well. If they can use the job as a fill-in between other jobs, you might stand to save a little more, but you could be without the car for a week. It doesn't cost anything to ask.

Last edited by Vader; Mar 22, 2002 at 11:05 AM.
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Old Mar 22, 2002 | 11:41 AM
  #3  
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Don't get JC Whitney headers unless you don't mind a leaky, noisy, unreliable exhaust system.

I have the TES #6874 in my car, with Jet-Hot coating. I really like them. People say the SLPs are better, but they are also more $$$.

I have the Hurst Comp Plus, have had it there for over 250,000 miles. It has been excellent. I made a bushing to put the stock leather **** back on, so it's a very "stealthy" piece.
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Old Mar 23, 2002 | 12:44 AM
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From: GO PACK GO
Car: 83Z28 HO
Engine: Magnacharged Dart Little M 408
Transmission: G Force 5 speed
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" w/Detroit Trutrac
VADER:

I know there is definatley a cost savings if I do all the prep work myself. But me and BONDO don't see eye-to-eye. I have done some already though. The body overall is in decent shape..no major dents, just "dings" here and there. I replaced a door that was creased.

I also ended up sanding the whole car to bare metal because the original paint was basically gone, with huge areas where the clear coat flaked off. Right now, it's a ******* mobile with spray can primer. The primer's just there till I can get it in a shop. I think I'll check with MACCO and see what can be done. How long they keep the car is not a big issue either, I could do without for a month. It's not my ride to work...I drive my S-10 for that.


RB83,

I seem to have read alot of posts lately basically saying that TES were built cheaply and didn't perform well, but I always thought thet were decent. I'll most likely end up getting a set. Is that the right # for headers with a Y-pipe for a 4-bolt CAT??

I'm not running the exhaust manifold AIR tubes, because I refuse to pay 104 bucks for a new air management valve. I do have the pump hooked up to the convertor though.

I'll check out the Hurst shifters. I'm not interested in a "stealthy" shift **** myself. I'll most likely get a big honkin aluminum T-handle for it. You know...matches the primer
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