305
Hooker headers 1 1/2
stock heads 9.5:1 comp
Roller tiped rockers
XE262 comp cam
Edelbrock performer rpm intake
Holley 750 double pumper carb
Accell hei distributor vac. advance with accell hei hi output coil
TH-350 with 3500 stall
3.73 posi

I hope i get some good numbers


thanks

 

About 311 hp at 5500 rpm and 342 lbs. of torque at 4000 rpm

 

welp...seems pretty good....now need some heads...and ill be screaming...thanks

 

According to Desktop Dyno 2000, which is by no means an accurate measure of power, your setup creates approx.....

303HP at 5500 rpms and 333 Ft Lbs TQ at 4000 rpms

These are flywheel numbers.

My question to you is... why in the world are you using a 3500 stall with that small cam?? The XE262 and even the XE268 are small enough for the stock converters. The XE274 only requires a 2200 stall and the XE284 only requires a 2800 stall. Even the largest flat tappet hydraulic Xtreme Energy cam only requires a 3300 stall.

Personal opinion, you're only hurting yourself with that big stall converter. You only need that stall if you're using a large cam... and a large cam in a 305 would only hurt you more than help you. Not only that, the 750cfm carb on a 305 is a bit overboard. Now if you had a larger cam and that carb on a 383 or 400 with that 3500 stall and a better set of heads then you'd have a good combination. Why waste all that money for less than 300HP at the wheels when you could throw all that stuff into a 350 or 400 with a better set of heads and make more power. Just my .02

 

welp...i agree....i bought this car less than a week ago..and i was wondering what numbers its running....I bought the car with these parts in it...another question....would it be worth getting the L36 heads and then getting Performer RPM Vortec intake??...

 

i mean L31 vortec heads

 

Hey could someone run my combo through the desktop dyno- see sig for engine let's see how accurate it is, I got 506 hp somerwere between 6000 and 6500 and I don't rember the torque (I can't find the dyno slip) this was at the flywheel and by the way my comp ratio is between 10.5-11:1.

 

DABE .... any heads would be better than what you have now. I wouldn't recommend switching to vortec just because of the simple fact that you have a good intake now. Get something with 1.94/1.50 valves and port it out. That's about the best you're going to do with a 305. You can't use 2.02/1.60 valves because they're too big for the size of the bore on a 305 and the stock size is something like 1.74/1.50. Personally, my first step would be to get a 350, bore it .030 over and use the cam, intake and carb you have now and get a set of aftermarket heads with 2.02/1.60 valves (which you can use with a 350) and about a 190cc intake runner. Then upgrade the cam in the future to a bigger cam and a roller one.

84 Z-28 350 .... I'll get back to you in about a half hour after my shower.

 

ok...you got me thinking....keep my setup...and throw the L98 Heads on it....i dont want to spend a whole lot of money....im only 17 and have a low paying job So i think the L98s would be good....get them ported and polished.....then put my roller tips on it...then maybe a 335 stroker kit??($599).....let me know what you think

Thanks to all for you advise

Dave

 

L98 heads would be a good choice as long as they don't have 2.02/1.60 valves. I'm not sure what they have.

The 335 stroker is a bad idea in my opinion. You're probably looking at $700-$800 for that with the kit and machine shop work because the block has to be clearanced for the crank. You can get a 350 block, have a machine shop bore it and go through it thoroughly and get a good 350 kit all for less than $400-$500 and you can reuse the cam, intake and carb you have now. A 350 bored .030 over is 355.1 cubic inches compared to 334.x cubic inches. You get more cubes, more power, and spend less money and then you even have the block already if you decide to make it a 383 stroker later on.

 

here are the specs for the L98s

Valve Diameter I/E: 1.940"/1.500"
Chamber CC: 58cc
Intake Port CC: 163cc
Spark Plug Type: Angled
Spark Plug Size: 14mm
Spark Plug Reach: 0.750"
Spark Plug Part #: RC12YC
Valve Spring Diameter: 1.250"
Max. Lift: 0.500"

This head was used in 1987-91 Corvettes with TPI. They have a standard carbureted intake bolt pattern and centerbolt valve covers. Ideal for use in street rods and fresh water boats. Must use self aligning rocker arms. Priced per head.

http://www.sdpc2000.com/ wants 469.25 a head...is that good??

How much HP and TQ could i have if i put these heads on my existing motor??

I had 303HP at 5500 rpms and 333 Ft Lbs TQ at 4000 rpms

run it thru desktop dyno and let me know what you think....if you can, display the graphs....thanks

DABE

PS: i need to get a copy of desktop dyno

 

Desktop Dyno 2000 says 400hp at 5500 and 422 ft lbs at 4000 rpms.

Looks like the Desktop Dyno is off by a bit. I hope that's true because if it is then I'm pushing 400hp at the flywheel easy.

 

I only show a couple HP gain and about 8 TQ gain but I think you'll get more than that. Like I said earlier, Desktop Dyno is not by any means an accurate measure of your engines performance.

Also, the price seems a bit high but I think those are aluminum too if I'm not mistaken. I still think the 350 would be a better deal but then again I'm a big fan of more cubes. If you went with a 350 you could get Sportsman II heads for $350 each through Jegs. They're CNC ported with 2.02/1.60 valves and a 200cc intake runner. My friend has a set on his 360 and it makes a world of difference.

 

yeah that's off a bit, dose it have varibals for timing and fuel mixture 'cause I'm pushing 50* advance at cirtan points during the power curve. it took me awhile to relize that the more fuel and the more advance I gave it the more power it would have.

 

No, it doesn't have variables for timing and fuel curve. That's one problem with Desktop Dyno, too many variables that it doesn't account for.

Timing is good but there's only so much you can give the engine before you get knock and then you might as well not have any advance because the computer will retard the timing. But if you can get away with the timing then yeah, you'll get more power.

 

Yeah my car is wierd with timing, I can max the computer out and it keeps pullin harder and I get no knock at all but I have to back it off because of drivabilty problems (surging, poping through the throttel bores (not good) and poping out the exauast)