ok i just made my first trip to the track with my 383 with a t-5 and street tires and 3.70 gears. the best time i pulled was 13.780 @ 106mph. how good is that??? i spun on the launch a little, and i was wondering if i should leave it in fourth all the way through the traps or should i hit fith?? i was shifting around 4500rpm. any other tips on gettin a better time? i was hoping to be about a whole second faster. it also needs to be dialed in it just has a tune good enough to drive around without backfiring.
engine details include
.480/.480 cam
edelbrock performer rpm intake/ 750 carb w/ 2"spacer
msd 6al box w/ 5500rpm rev chip
2.02/1.60 heads w/200cc intake
i have another question which is a little off subject but if i wanted to get my intake ported to match the heads do i have to take heads and intake to the shop or just intake??
engine details include
.480/.480 cam
edelbrock performer rpm intake/ 750 carb w/ 2"spacer
msd 6al box w/ 5500rpm rev chip
2.02/1.60 heads w/200cc intake
i have another question which is a little off subject but if i wanted to get my intake ported to match the heads do i have to take heads and intake to the shop or just intake??
Supreme Member
freestylzz
Supreme Member
close
Not good.
any suggestions?
Supreme Member
What brand heads and what cam? .480/.480 doesn't really tell you much.
its a melling cam .480/.480 and 230*/230* @.50 and 110 sep. and i dont know the brand of heads just the specs on them. which are 200cc intake/64cc comb. and 2.02/1.60 valves. and that they are aluminum
ttt
That cam is weak. That and shifting at 4500 is your problem. 383's love to breath so if your cutting its air off then your not going to get a good outcome.
can any1 recomend a good cam for this setup and a good shift point? and is there anyway to get this car into the 11's?? without spray?
also if i didnt change cam whats the max i could expect out of this motor if properly tuned??
also if i didnt change cam whats the max i could expect out of this motor if properly tuned??
Senior Member
lose the 2 inch carb spacer, make sure the tune is right on, you should be running in the 12 sec zone with that. If you drive it properly.
Senior Member
You should be shifting around 5600-5800 rpm with your combo. Whats really hurting you is the cam and the edelbrock intake manifold. Very restrictive, I don't know what tires your running but a good set of slicks work well. Whats your timeslip look like.
60' 2.257
330 6.040
1/8 9.079
1000 11.644
1/4 13.780
mph 106.02
what would be a good intake and cam?? i am just running old street tires right now. i am going to get a set of drag radials.
330 6.040
1/8 9.079
1000 11.644
1/4 13.780
mph 106.02
what would be a good intake and cam?? i am just running old street tires right now. i am going to get a set of drag radials.
Senior Member
Yeah that would really help your 60
i figured it would since my street tires spin alot. but i am also thinking about some major changes to this motor after i sneak through emissions somehow. and want to know what everyone else uses on their 383 to get alot of hp in terms of cam and intake since everyone is telling me my cam sucks.
Senior Member
yea, you're roughly a sec off your possible et. tune it, engines gotta be right or not at all! lookin at the mph, you have a lack of power, play wit it
106 mph would put him near 370-380 hp level i would think.
with the right chassis, you probably could run in the mid 12's or so.
with the right chassis, you probably could run in the mid 12's or so.
would that hp estimate be to the wheels??? i was thinking of taking it to a place that has a dyno to help dial it in but it might be pretty costly. i have a jet and rod kit for the carb but dont really know what to use. so it would probably be best to take it somewhere. but if i cant get the numbers i am looking for then what would be the best cam and intake to go with?? also i have stock 5.7 rods and clevite77 bearings so what is the max rpm i can get away with to better my times?
Flywheel power.
If I were you, get rid of the spacer. Get those drag radials to get your car consistent, and use the drag strip to dial it in. Try and find out more about the heads to make a more educated decision on choosing a cam. I'm running that cam in my 355. Your 383 can tolerate much more. Get the carb issue sorted out too.
Even if you don't change the cam, you should be shifting at a much highter rpm. Probably anywhere between 5500 and 6000 rpm. Again play around at the drags.
If I were you, get rid of the spacer. Get those drag radials to get your car consistent, and use the drag strip to dial it in. Try and find out more about the heads to make a more educated decision on choosing a cam. I'm running that cam in my 355. Your 383 can tolerate much more. Get the carb issue sorted out too.
Even if you don't change the cam, you should be shifting at a much highter rpm. Probably anywhere between 5500 and 6000 rpm. Again play around at the drags.
well i was told that the heads are supposed to flow as good as dart and brodix heads but they didnt have a name they were 700 bux for the pair with valves and springs. if i tear everything apart i will get them ported and polished since i will have to upgrade springs and to handle more lift. should i use the track to play with the carb jets and rods or just timing and air/ fuel ratio??? yeah i wasnt sure but i do think i may have lost a little power with the spacer. for some reason i thought it would help.
Supreme Member
1991CamaroRslow
Supreme Member
close
- Join DateOct 2005
- LocationCincinatti OH
- Posts:1,833
- iTrader Positive Feedback100
- iTrader Feedback Score(3)
- Car1991 L03 700r4 RS
- Engine1987 WS6 Trans AM Lb2
- TransmissionTh350 red neck Performance 3k stall
- Axle/Gears95 Mustang 8.8 built with 3.73s
- Likes:0
- Liked:0 Times in 0 Posts
This; 60' 2.257 coupled with the low shift points are your problem, before you do anything crazy get some sticky tires and shift higher. 106 was good enough to get me a 12.2 you should be able to gain some MPH with higher shifts and take a ton off with a decent sixty. You should be doing 1.7's, 1.6's.
Supreme Member
ya u def need to shift highter aroudn 5500 -5800 is prob better liek everyone is sayiong. Your power seems decent withthe motor.. any suspenion mods??? if not threres your problem. lower control amrs and stuff will make a world of differnace.
well what kind of suspension mods are important and what mods will make what kind of differences?? also what gear should i be in by the end of the 1/4 4 or 5???
With your 3.27 9bolt, you should be in 4rth.
For your suspension, first thing you should do is get a panhard bar, then get lower control arms in the rear (or box them). These should eliminate the wheel hop our cars are known for.
For your suspension, first thing you should do is get a panhard bar, then get lower control arms in the rear (or box them). These should eliminate the wheel hop our cars are known for.
i currently have 3: 70' s
You should still be in 4rth. Even with that ratio, you should be good until 120 mph or so in 4rth gear.
heres what i picked out and was wondering how everyone feels about the mickey thompson street radials and this lca and panhard bar kit
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=130257403270
my plan right now is get a good tune on it and get through emissions somehow then get the tires, lca's and panhard bar then go back to the track.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=130257403270
my plan right now is get a good tune on it and get through emissions somehow then get the tires, lca's and panhard bar then go back to the track.
Member
Quote:
also if i didnt change cam whats the max i could expect out of this motor if properly tuned??
what's the compression on your motor? Ditch the intake. What carb?Originally Posted by white85transam
can any1 recomend a good cam for this setup and a good shift point? and is there anyway to get this car into the 11's?? without spray? also if i didnt change cam whats the max i could expect out of this motor if properly tuned??
I pulled some all motor 11.60's with my 383 @ 11:1CR with the comp xe294 cam on a team g single plane intake with a lot left in the tune still...on 3.45 rear gears. I have 4.10's and the nitrous kit to put on the car yet.
i dont know the actual comp. but when i picked the pistons and heads it is supposed to be 11:1 and i have edelbrock performer 750 carb
Member
Quote:
a holley 750 dp would be a great carb to replace that one. I have a mighty demon 750 which I am VERY happy with.Originally Posted by white85transam
i dont know the actual comp. but when i picked the pistons and heads it is supposed to be 11:1 and i have edelbrock performer 750 carb what's the part number of the pistons? Did you have the block zero decked or anything? what head gasket thickness you running. when picking a cam a lot of info is needed.
my block is zero decked with a .045" head gasket and 64cc heads flat top pistons with 2 reliefs which had to be flycut. if you picked out pistons they normally say what kind of deck hieghth is required to obtain the desired CR.
What's wrong with the rpm intake on a street 383?
I think that's a great intake.
I think that's a great intake.
no the block wasnt zero decked and i dont remember the part numbers but i'm pretty sure it was just regular felco head gakskets for a 350
the pistons are hyperutectic and have 2 reliefs in them and were said to be 11:1 with 64cc heads and 9.5:1 on 72 cc heads
the pistons are hyperutectic and have 2 reliefs in them and were said to be 11:1 with 64cc heads and 9.5:1 on 72 cc heads
Member
Quote:
I think that's a great intake.
It depends on what you want out of an engine... He asked what cam for 11's that intake would be a mismatch more than likely. My 7532 Team G does excellent on the street with suprising low end torque...Originally Posted by Manic Z
What's wrong with the rpm intake on a street 383?I think that's a great intake.
so what cam would you recomend if i decide to make that leap???
I'd say step up the duration another 10-15 degrees @ .050
Member
It'd be hard to make a recommendation without knowing the compression ratio. But more duration and lift is obvious.

