who's done an up grade in brakes? witch kit did you go with and what was the cost?

It seems that i am using up my brakes a lot faster now (post engine mod) they are starting to warp and one caliper is strarting to stick so its time for an up grade

so i just wanted to see what other people were using. but it must work with stock 16 inch wheels

Hey trigger GTA is the newmotor broken in yet ? I am waiting to hear how big your smile is on the first WOT run...

I've found that the brake thing can be insanely expensive if you go to the large rotors and 4 piston calipers, etc. I've also found that the replacement OEM style rotors with drill and cross cut have come down in price quite abit. My plan was to use these with hi-tech pads and braided lines to improve the braking and avoid the cost of BAER, Brembo, etc.

My stock rotors are 10.5 up front. I figure that with cut & drilled 10.5s, the right pads and braided lines I ought to see a reasonable increase in braking power and at a reasonable price. The rotors, pads and lines can be bought through any UAP shop. I priced out the lines at $150, the rotors at $290 and the pads at $65. The labour is all mine.

Waddya think ?

RP.

ask nate how the break in is going We painted a parking lot rubber last week.

its running real good. however i will need more power soon!!

i need more than just pads and rotors. i have a caliper that is dragging. so it need to be repalced. that means an up grade is in order. i dont like to replace parts with just stock if i can improve the car performance. I have looked a Baer but thier prices are out of this world. there has to be something just as good for less. but i want a kit. i dont want to convert to 1le. its way to much fabricating and will take to much time.

Palric, before you spend the money on the drilled and slotted rotors, you may want to read this.

http://www.baer.com/faq.shtm

As for the steel lines, you won't see any improvement over a new high qaulity set of rubber lines. The steel lines only show stopping distance improvements over older, mushy lines.

Those guys have kooool stuff. Wish I had the coin for it !

I have heard pros and cons on slotting and drilling. The Baer guys are obviously someone to listen to. Maybe I just need a GM rotor (I have to replace mine soon) ? My lines are worse than old -- they sat without use for 3 years so I figured I'd do an upgrade to braid when I replace them and the fluid.

Are you coming to the GB weekend ?

RP.

palric, I would say Trigger's break in period is coming to an end... after the nice donuts he made after mine... I'd say he's closing in.

Slotted rotors are a good investment, because the slots expell the gasses created during hard braking, thus allowing greater brake pad contact to the rotor.

Check e-bay... I've seen slotted rotors for 3rd gens there before. I believe there are more company's that make slotted rotors for us.

The gases occur during all types of braking. The slots and holes are only needed when you are "outgassing" the rotor and pad. This is when the gasses cannot be evacuated from in between the pad and rotor fast enough. A thirdgen would not be capable of "outgassing" it's rotors. The rotor or the pad would light off first. Trans Am and NASCAR teams don't even use slotted rotors.

Palric, if you still want a set, get the GM Durastop Performance rotors. They aren't cheap but they have a warranty and you will be able to get them locally. I wouldn't put a set of drilled E-bay rotors on my car but that's just me. I wouldn't even consider them unless the drilled holes are chamfered and/or stress relieved. I won't deny how cool those things look, but to me, the gain(or lack of) does not justify the cost.

I sure hope to but I have a big project to finish before the gathering

I hear that on the drilling and cutting. The new is worse for those with drilled and/or cut rotors -- they are a one shot deal in other words they cannot be turned no matter how much meat is on them. So once they warp (and most will eventually) they are garbage.

I have been checking out the GM units and they DO come with more meat and stronger venting. Besides, one report I read the guys braking got worse with drilled because he was unable to increase braking pressure so it worked out he had (effectively) less rotor or swept area to brake with once the drilled units were installed against factory calipers. Now that would really P*SS me off. Nothing like spending $$$ for negative gain eh ?

I had an Acura for years and was forced to use expensive hi-perf pads, got used to them, liked them and have installed them on my Firebird already. The rotors need replacing and I'll do that soon enough with GM Durastop. I've had lines go bad before so without question am going to braided just so it will never be an issue in the future -- the peace of mind is worth the $$$ to me.

Trigger GTA -- the trick brakes are really cooool in IMHO. But here is a nasty thought -- why don't you take the $2k it will cost to BAER or Brembo the car and do a T-56 swap instead ? That way you can use the gears to help slow you down.... (ha, ha)...

adious,
RP.

You might wanna consider KVR rotors and pads...you can get them from www.fasttoys.net. Or upgrade to 1LE stuff.

1le is out of the question. but i checked out the web site you posted. is the price listed in canadian or us. i cant find anything to say?

NEVER MINED

The prices are in USD but the bonus to fasttoys is that because he's located in Winnepeg, you don't get charge brokerage fees! Big bonus!

just got done my brakes, well the rear ones anyways. Pulled off the driver side tire and wanted to check the brakes, took the caliper off and the thing was siezed. So i went and picked up new ones with nice3 performance pads and rotors. The front pads i bought were the wrong ones. Should of checked them before i took the tire and caliper off hehehehe but any ways im hittin the csack.