I've noticed that for the past few weeks my car has been running a little hot. On average my car runs at about 115 degrees celsius. That is just a few millimetres before the RED area.

Is this normal?

Is there anything that could be causing this?

 

When does it occur? If it only happens when your stopped it is likely your fan. If it happens all the time it could be your rad or a gunky coolant line somewhere. If its hot not because of your coolant system but because of your engine then thats a whole different problem. If it never goes red, just close it might be normal till you get a low temp thermo and ecm recalibrated. Those would be my guesses but I am sure others know more about cooling.

 

Check to make sure you still have the black plastic air dam under the rad. I remember from one of your other posts that someone said they scrapped the bottom of the car or something like that. Take a look under the car from the front and you should see a black piece of plastic that sticks down about 4" or so underneath the lower rad support. This air dam assists in providing enough air flow around the rad to keep it cool.

Hope this helps

 

Easy our cars are sensitive to the weather... as long as it isn't constantly hanging in the red, it's fine.

Besides.. your car should still be in tip top shape.. if you can't think of when it last had its rad flushed, better do one just to be sure it isn't plugged up anywhere...

 

When does it get hot..on idle or at high speeds?If its at 40mph or faster then check the air dam(KevinV's post)..If at idle then check to see if the fan turns on if it does check what temperature..When car is running squeeze the uppr rad hose feel for pressure.I would replace the thermostat if you havent done it in a while..(cheap insurance)..Get the rad cap checked and make sure it still holds pressure..Clean everything thats blocking the front of the rad/condenser....Check these and post what you find out..lol

Daz

 

Do everything the guys said in this thread plus...

Hey buddy I think you want to get onto this temp issue pretty quick I think it is a problem or will lead to one. Sorry Slade1 I disagree if it was a 350 no biggy but... the urgency has to do with the 305 heads unlike the 350 heads, they are very sensitive to overheating. Been there and done that before. The 305s that I have had typically run alot cooler that 350s.

I take it there are no obvious coolant leaks ? That you have thoroughly checked the engine bay ? No green puddles under the car ?

We have pretty much the same setup. Mine runs half-way between the lowest and middle (40-100) on the guage which is wayyyy to the left of the red area you speak of and it does this on one fan -- I have two. During really hot humid 32celcius days it runs a few notches hotter but never, ever goes past 100 or the 'middle part' of the temperature guage. In fact it never gets near it. At the last track day the temp hardly budged and we all know how hot that was. My '88 305 ran very cool, my '85 305 also ran very cool (even in Death Valley, CA... but that is another story altogether).

FYI: I replace the anti-freeze every year and run a 180degree stainless steel thermostat. Factory is 195degrees. I do my own flush IMHO I think the pressure ones help destroy the heater core. Better to do it yourself. The thermostat swap is a piece of cake I change it every year it is only $18. Make sure you double up on gaskets.

EasySpeed don't mess with 305s when they are running too hot. If you are consistently near the red you are running TOO HOT and need to get onto it.

adious,
RP.

 

lol I know what an airdam is and it isn't that, otherwise I wouldn't be hearing scrapes whenever I go over a bump hehe!

After reading palric's post I decided to make an appointment with the mechanic tomorrow. I'll put the 180 degree stainless thermo in and get everything checked. I was hoping I wouldn't have to make any more trips to the mechanic this year! Luckily this time I'll be driving, not getting towed.

 

Have you thought about tackling the coolant change and thermostat on your own ? A screwdriver and a 9/16s combo wrench is pretty much all you need. You don't really want to pay someone to do this do you ? Come on it doesn't get any easier. Mechanics are way, WAYYYYY too expensive. I could do this in 1/2 hour or less.

my .02cents woth,
RP.

 

my mechanic isn't expensive

half the time he charges me nothing

we've been going to him for 25 years....

he told me it'll take 30 minutes and won't be expensive.

 

No offense Easy, but tackle it yourself. Unless he is doing it completely for free, saving is money is saving money. And you learn as you go. I am no expert by any means, but I wouldn't know half of what I do today if I didn't try things on my own. It's a good learning experience and very self gratifying. There will be some things that are too big or hard to tackle, but a stat and coolant change you can handle I'm sure. Pick up a Hanes manual and away you go.

 

Glad to hear it. Sounds like a good deal.

Let us know if your temp comes down it should sit at just over 1/2 between 40 and 100 with a 180f t-stat.

adious,
RP.

 

I wouldn't mind doing it myself but lately I work alot (about 45-50 hours a week) and the time I have to myself I would much rather spend putting a sticker on my car (hehe) than reading a manual and tinkering with my engine, even though there is no doubt in my mind that it is a simple job.

 

Having an airdamn, and having a GOOD air damn are two different things. If what you say is true, then your air damn may be deflecting at highspeeds, thus not directing the air through your rad. Hitting the air damn all the time weakens it and it bends at high speeds.

I believe I had to take my TB off to get to my thermostat... I forget now... I recommend getting the GM gasket, it has a silicone trace in the gasket already, so it makes for a clean and easy job.

 

the best solution is to just dump all the ice from your beer cooler onto you engine it is cheap and enviromentaly freindly, as long as you recycle your beer in the toilet and not on the side of the road. Also when you return your empties you could get another sticker for the back window or mabe a nice set of louvers, I had mine dynoed at 35 rear wheel HP and if you get a white set add an extra 5HP. So in closin you will keep yer bay cool and your car lookin great while savin some cash.

 

If you're short on time then that's okay...Right now between the house and my job, time is a premium for me too....but I have a daily driver car so I can afford to have the IROC out of commission for a couple days at a time. I guess there's always time to learn stuff later right?