I was wondering what the vacuum solenoid was that is located on the passenger side of my exhaust manifold. Also, what is the specified torque for the header bolts? Or should I just tighten them up snug and then check for leaks?
Member
Hi Kevin. Not sure about the vac solenoid, but for header bolts, I normally just snug them up and check for leaks. Then after a day or two of driving, snug them up again and your done.

Supreme Member
You could always use some threadlock (NOT RED) to hold it in if you don't want to go through the hassle of re tightening them every now and then. I go from inside tubes outward to ensure they snug up evenly.
Hey Kevin,
I've used header lock bolts before. Pricey but worked great for me. I think they are between $40-60 CDN ? I used no specific torque although I imagine there is one written down somewhere in some manual ?
When I get headers next I'll be using them for sure reason is you keep tightening the header bolts sooner or later one gets in trouble - strips, breaks whatever. Some you can't get to without taking off other junk -- atleast on the cars with AIR.
The lock bolts do it once and put away the wrench. Sorry can't help with the solenoid. Oh yeah I had that setup on my '85 on the passenger side manifold it broke and I took it off drove for another 200ks no problems.
RP.
I've used header lock bolts before. Pricey but worked great for me. I think they are between $40-60 CDN ? I used no specific torque although I imagine there is one written down somewhere in some manual ?
When I get headers next I'll be using them for sure reason is you keep tightening the header bolts sooner or later one gets in trouble - strips, breaks whatever. Some you can't get to without taking off other junk -- atleast on the cars with AIR.
The lock bolts do it once and put away the wrench. Sorry can't help with the solenoid. Oh yeah I had that setup on my '85 on the passenger side manifold it broke and I took it off drove for another 200ks no problems.
RP.
I already have the header bolts, so I will just stick with those, for now. As for the solenoid, yeah, mine is broken and rusty too. I didn't even notice it before now. Can't be too important.
Supreme Member
yeah just tighten the header bolts as tight as you can and then recheck them every few days, depending on how much you drive, for the first while. if you dont you will have leaks and blow gaskets.
Member
Hey Kev, The heat riser valve is for heating the engine up in the winter. It's garbage. I've never seen one that still works. Mine didn't even have the vac lines attached. Just make sure the valve is in open position to let exhaust out...
Also check this out..https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=108733
Also check this out..https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=108733
Thanks for the info, guys. The heat riser actuator will be removed in the next couple of days, once I put the headers on.I am curious to know if it was closed or partially closed.
Say goodbye to those boat anchors and say hello to a less restrictive exhaust. Unleash the beast!! woohoo
Say goodbye to those boat anchors and say hello to a less restrictive exhaust. Unleash the beast!! woohoo

Dunno, never even been down the track. The last time at Sparta I was suppose to, but, well accidents happen.

Member
Oh yeah! I forgot about that. Are ya going to sparta on the 27th? You know, to see what she can do? If you pull 14's I'll probably keep my anchor for a while longer. I'm really interested to see.
I don't know if I can do Sparta. I had promised my wife that the last event was just that. It didn't work out for me, but a promise is a promise. As for 14's, hmmmm, I dunno, maybe with a cam that # might seem more realistic to me. I was hoping on 15's. I guess time will tell.
Member
Hey Kevin. If you use the regular header bolts, you'll want to check them after a few days. From the heat expanding everything and then cooling down again, they may feel abit loose.
