No Heat or Air
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 146
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From: Oakbank, Manitoba,Canada
Car: 1992 RS (25 th Anniversary)
Engine: 350 Miniram XFI
Transmission: Pro-Built 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.73
No Heat or Air
I hope that someone can help. I have no heat or air in my car. I just replaced the blower motor with a new one, nothing. I replaced the relay with a new one too, nothing. The motor doesn't turn at speed. When I am driving I do get warm or cool air flowing out of the vents, but that's just the air flowing through the system. I'm going to check the electrical at work tomorrow. Could the resistor coils be shot? Has anybody had this problem? I need help.
Thanks
Thanks
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 146
Likes: 0
From: Oakbank, Manitoba,Canada
Car: 1992 RS (25 th Anniversary)
Engine: 350 Miniram XFI
Transmission: Pro-Built 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Nope, I got nothing happening. I think the fan switch might be burned out or a wire may be messed up in there. I'm going to check it out tomorrow.
If you get NO fan at all (not even on the highest setting)- I would check the fan itself (hook a 12V positive line from battery to it's power terminal to see if it spins), then look for broken wiring/bad fuse, then the switch. If the resistor pack was bad- you should still be able to get the fan to spin, but only on the "high" setting.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 146
Likes: 0
From: Oakbank, Manitoba,Canada
Car: 1992 RS (25 th Anniversary)
Engine: 350 Miniram XFI
Transmission: Pro-Built 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.73
I put in a new blower motor and a new fan relay, I still had no fan, I also checked the resistor coils and they were all good too. I used a multimeter and checked the circuit and wiring, I have power through the whole circuit, so I took the climate control panel out and tested the blower motor switch, it has power going to it, but the switch still doesn't activate the blower motor. So I figure it must be the switch itself, everything else has power and works. I get the new switch tomorrow. If that doesn't solve it then I'm lost.
The bonus to switch diagnosis is that you can test them by bypassing them or hooking up an ohmmeter possibly saving you having to buy a new switch and get stuck with it (dealers are pretty iffy about taking back electrical parts) if it's not the problem (certainly sounds like it is in this case).
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