very cool.

 

This is one of the coolest projects Ive ever seen... and I love to hang out on lateral-g.net and the caliber of projects there are incredible. Yours is quite amazing. I hope you can find a way to make it street legal.

 

That is WAY cool.

 

Are you going to move the front wheels inboard a little bit? Or are you going to do fender flares?

 

Its a stock car, the fenders are cut, the tires hang.

 

Hi Doug- Dean here(Vetruck)

Infernal- He need to leave the track width where it is at becasue the chassis geometry was built for that stance. If he tried to reduce wheel offset to fit the body, the tire footprint would not be correct for the chassis (to make a long story short).

Besides, it draws attention that way- people walk up and then discover its sitting on a full blown tube chassis and the next comment is WTF? Holly sh*t...

 

Dash - Mocked up the gauges, tried to put the tach in the "stock" position next to the speedo, hard to look through the wheel just sitting in the shop let alone at 100mph so set it up on the dash old school stock car style, Much better! I cant reach the dash sitting in the seat so a trans tunnel mounted switch box will have to be installed.

 

More of trunk with filter and vent hose, still need the check valve for the vent hose.

 

man you have an awsome ride....where you gonna race it, i want to see it in person...

 

Its built for track days at Mosport big track, maybe some day I'll tag along with Doug Phillips and race it competitively.

 

awesome. i love it.

 

Be sure to tell us if you are doing a Mosport Track Day. Sometimes I go to watch and I'd love to see a beast like that chasing down a BMW or Porsche!
David

 

I will...

 

Tough looking race car, a lot of work in your car for sure.
My buddy has a drum brake vintage Chevelle he races on the west coast at Vintage events, Sonoma and Monterey.
Looks like yours would turn better lap times.
http://huntington-cars.com/GrandNational.html

 

Im fully aware of that series and your buddies car. The drum brakes gotta be a little scary but its a cool series. Your buddy has a few cars doesnt he?

 

for you sir i have 2 words to describe this

f'ing awesome

 

From a guy with your line up of cars thats very high praise for sure. Thanks!

 

if i was close id offer to trade a drive in any of mine for a chance to drive urs when its done, if u can get the thing street legal i bet it will be a blast to drive on the road

 

so crazy!!!! i love it. ive been seeing a lot of similar build out there recently, a lot of guys taking old road race chassis and such and dropping cool bodies on em

 

Thanks - This idea has been in my head for well over 20yrs so everyone else is copying off me LOL

Heres the bullet, 434 inch, 700hp. dart block, "Pontiac" Nascar heads, 740 lift solid roller, pump gas.

 

Awesome!
Love the 69 Chevelles- was planning on building mine with a 396 and 4 speed- had everything, including a nice rust free body. Sold it when my hubby lost his job, and I didn't know how long it would be before he would return to work.
ARGH!!!

 

Keep diggin'.....I got started on this car 4 yrs ago but it has been in the works/thoughts since the late 80s

 

Missed you on the weekend. Great racing but unfortunately a few lost cars.

You could have done the Sunday lunch lapping.

Maybe see you in June.

 

Had too much going on Doug, wanted to but couldnt make it. How did you do?

 

Did well, won all three races. Personal best time of 1:31.4

Starter is failing, needs replacing. Severe vibration between 130 and 145 mph to figure out. Could just be wheel balance.

 

Was talking third gens with D Phillips and a cool guy named Victor who gave some some info on an LS1 swap in the Iroc at the Canadian Motorsport Expo (the one where Richard Petty dissed Danica) Got me thinking about the Camaro thought Id post some updates of the Chevelle on TGO. Its been awhile.

Found out the pan in the above pic wouldnt work as the Dart block is a "spread rail" design in the pan mating surfaces to accomodate the stroker crank. It also has the cam galley raised up in the block for the same reason. So I ended up having to get a special order roadrace wet sump pan from Moroso. And the headers were special order from Schoenfeld in Alabama. But theyre here now and after I get the trans back I can mount it and start plumbing/wiring the actual engine Im going to use instead of the mock up engine. Hours and hours on the web/phone sourcing those parts as neither of them are listed in their catalouges.

 

After buying the battery box off a picture in a catalog and obsessing over placement I put it here and Im happy with it. Kind of central but over to the right to offset driver weight, protected and can still get the fuel cell out. And still room for a dry sump tank to the right like the set up in the second pic

 

In the previous pics the glass bumpers were just sitting there balanced on the car. After more head scratching I came up with this bumper/mount. Same done to the rear.

 

You winch a car like this up on the trailer. After three or four solutions I settled with this, works good, simple and super light.

 

Spoke to David from Va at length about the rear spoiler. He said "Six inches tall and 60 degree angle" I said Holy Sh it thats big! He said "You have to pin that rear end down solid or it will be so dog gone loose you wont be able to drive it".....OK fine thats what we'll do. Heres a mock up. Thats 6.75" so it will be a little shorter. And a pic of the one that came on it.

 

And the front spoiler....typically a car back in the day would have it narrower like in the first pic but the more air you can keep out from underneath the car like the last pic the faster you'll go. I widened it out as much as I could without losing the old school look.
Dale Sr's car in the last pic is a 1999 Monte Carlo Winston Cup car exactly what my car originally would have looked like in its racing days other than paint....if it had a front end on it. haha
Front spoilers are easy to make and easy to mount. I may have two or three different ones.

 

Did body work for two straight weeks....Im happy with it. Its not the greatest but its a Mercedes by stock car standards

 

Lightened the doors. Maybe only took a pound off per door but I wanted to do it those things are really heavy plus if I didnt part of me would hate myself.

 

Got my channel and new upper weatherstrip in. Was concerned because after shaving the drip rails the roof edge isnt stock anymore but the glass seals perfect and the door closes just like a stock Chevelle. No issues thumbs up!

 

This will be the quarter window treatment.(searched high and low for that solution) so the front windows will still operate and seal properly. Made from Lexan, they will not roll down on either side. I havnt decided yet but the drivers side will have a Naca duct like in the pic for the rearend cooler for sure and I might double up the drivers side and add one on the pass side to route cool air to the rear brakes. Ditching the glass window and crank mechanism saves 16lbs per side! I weighed it.

 

Bought some stock black rear door panels off Kijiji for $70, after unsticking the vinyl from the cardboard, trimming the cardboard to fit around the huge stock car wheel tubs and re gluing the vinyl to the cardboard I got them in and I like the way it turned out. The front and rear match.

 

Sent my old school Borg Warner Super T-10 4spd to a local old timer named "Merv" who does racing transmissions in the area. Ive had the thing for at least 10 yrs and never used it. I knew it was very good but i had him look it over, replace the front and rear seals and remove the vent/breather off the top of it and tap and thread in a barbed fitting so I can vent it to a little K&N breather up on the firewall or to a puke tank. I know from experience if you dont do this when you run them hard oil will come out of the vent run down the side of the trans and make smoke, bad smells and run the trans low on oil ....not good.

I asked David about the the strength of the T-10 he said he ran one with a cooler in his old Busch car that made 736hp for two full seasons before it finally let go. Eventually I will step up to a Jerico clutch less "dogbox" tranny but this will be good for now.

Oh the old timer said the trans was "in real good shape" and "is good to go now". Charged me $200

 

Got the accessories sorted out on the 700hp monster. It's a junk mock up alternator.

 

Ditched the fabbed valve covers as they wern't old school enough. Stll have to decide and drill for breathers. Carter Nascar fuel pump. "Nascar approved" 830 cfm carb. David knows these carbs well and says he will be very surprised if it isnt jetted almost perfect right out of the box. Took the alternator to my local rebuild shop. The trick lightweight,low drag "race" alternator that go for big $$ in the racing catalogs turned out to be the bone stock unit on an '89 Geo Tracker lol

 

Got engine in may have to dimple the right side header just a bit. Oil pan hags down 1/4 to 3/8" below engine cross member. David and I have been discussing a skid plate for under there so that would take care of that. Many Cup teams do this today. Hood lays right down flat on top of the carbon fiber air cleaner so no hood modifications required! Whew! Even though the headers are custom there is no real guarantee of fitment. All in all Im very pleased Ive been sweating this stuff for a couple of months, especially the hood.

 

Fitting the twin 3.5" exhaust system. Looks like I will have to clearance the front edge of the mufflers to tuck it up the way I want it. The Monte Carlo body flared out below the window then went straight down. The Chevelle body bows back in towards the bottom so I'll have to cut off the ends of the tailpipes so they wont stick out. It came out of a Hooters Cup car. I asked David how much difference the mufflers will make he said "not much"

 

On to plumbing. After much deliberation Ive decided Left to right. Firewall mounted valve cover puke can. Ive been assured simply having breathers mounted in the valve cover will not work. With the G's this car will produce oil would be forced out the breather and on to the headers. Next power steering pump resovior. Oil cooler (obviously) mounted in front of the rad its 15x9x3" and a firewall mounted coolant recovery tank with a vent at the base of the windshield. Still messing with the exhaust btw but it's getting close.

 

Plumbing pretty much done. The coolant recovery tank needs the bracket repositioned and my neighbor who does alum welding is away so it is on hold. Came up with that spot for the oil filter mount, went through a half dozen different location scenarios. Settled on that spot it's not too vulnerable to rocks and s hit and it's out of the way of even the most ambitious future brake cooling hose set ups. You can see the cowl induction air intake starting to take shape.

 

I found when I dropped the engine in the oil pan sat below the front suspension cross member. If I ever had an off road excursion or even a run in with a speed bump I could clean the pan off the engine so I used some heavy washers as spacers on the solid motor mounts to raise the engine up . Plans call for a heavy plate steel skid plate to be fabbed and installed from the c member and fully underneath the oil pan

 

Came up with a location for the oil filter that would be accessible to service, out of the direct path of s hit thrown up by the tires and out of the way of future brake cooling ducts and made a bracket and installed the oil filter

 

Had been trying to figure out what to do with the inside of the roof for sometime. As it sat it was incredibly crude looking especially by the sail panels at the back, it looked like h ell. So I went to the local auto upholstery shop and picked up a big roll of foam backed headliner he had lying around from an 80s Chevy for $60. I glued the headliner directly to the inside bare metal of the roof with spray on adhesive. I made some rear sail panel covers out of heavy cardboard and covered them. The wrinkly bad looking stuff on the far side of the roll cage will be covered by the roll bar padding, you wont see it.You didnt know I was an upholsterer too did you? hahaha not!

The braces used to be the inside windshield braces from the race car. I fabbed up the mounts and installed them. As all the inside bracing from the roof was removed to make way for the roll cage I needed something to hold up the roof. Before the braces if you were to pound on the top of the roof with your hand you could put a permanent dent in it pretty easy and after all that work installing the new roof Im not going to let that happen. I like it looks pretty racy to me.

 

I wanted some way to check oil level so I got a twist lock racing dipstick from Moroso to go in the Moroso pan. This block has no provisions for a dipstick like a GM block so this is the only option. No instructions at all with this kit, nothing.. You get this plastic bag of hardware with all these little fittings and you have to figure out for yourself a combination of them that will work for you. I threw away the bracket that was supposed to hold the top of the dipstick tube to the valve cover and fabbed my own. Figured out I had to cut the tube to length and the dipstick to length to get it to work and a compression fitting holds the tube into the pan. Turned into an ordeal but I got it done and Im happy with it.

 

Got the cowl induction finished. Had to cut out the brace in the back of the hood for a hole and make up a "bracket" to hold a piece of screen on the top of the hood. Then make an extension on the back of the carbon fiber Cup air cleaner to match up with the hole and rivet it on and seal it. Went with hood props as opposed to a lift off hood as that offers one man operation.

 

Got the hood pins on and my cool rear licence plate that after at least a half dozen different ideas I finally settled on. That is a sticker over an old decorative licence plate that I had lying around. I had my buddy who owns a sign shop make it up for me the gray on the plate matches the gray on the bumper exactly. Some of the other colors/things I was going to do stuck out too much back there. I like this.

 

Fuel vent is in. This is where the "catch can" will go