hey guys i love my car its a 1986 305 tpi, from what i read on yout site it seems to be one of 26, any way i need so direction, well to start of i have minor mods done, i have a custom cold air intake modified mas, borla cat back, 8mm copper spark plug wires, 4+ bosch plats, plished runners, stage i shift kit, and i believe thats it. any suggestions u guys can make would be greatly appriciated. what i am thinking of doing is this, full borla exhaust headers down, (what are good headers) nets i was looking in to syamise runners, and porting the plenium, then i was looking in to a stage 2 thermomaster chip with a 160 degree thermostat. tell me what u think and thnx again .
Eric

 

Headers....SLP

nick

 

Headers... not slp

 

Headers, slp

Jon

 

Headers.... not slp


1: you drive a 305, you need headers that are 1 5/8ths, the only time SLP should be an option is when you NEED 1 3/4's
2: Slp are by far the most expensive, with the least support/help, and they dont return calls
3: the coating company SLP uses is absolute CHIT.

 

slp!

 

so which is it slp or not, and if so is there any specific size i should get?

 

If you have cash to blindly throw around and you get slp, at least get the 1 5/8ths and DONT GET THEM COATED, if you want ceramic send it to jethot, slps coating is a joke.

 

Headman coated headers = $305 1 5/8"prim 3" collectors

 

Finally

 

I'm with ya tpi-roc! :rockon:

 

You get what you pay for, I put cheap headers on my old 85 TA and was not happy with them.

I only paid $399 for my SLP's in march, if I had not gotten the SLP's, I would have opted for MAC headers.

Nick

 

SLP's.

They are Stainless. Reason Enough.

 

Ahem, I run slp, just so we can negate any posters here posting in favor of them who've never seen a set in their life.


SLP is becoming a more and more difficult company to deal with should you need to contact someone there, however they have the market for 2 reasons on our cars
1.) Shortie 1 3/4 headers
2.) stainless


The stainless is a pretty low grade, and if you're thinking for a moment that its a polished stainless your mistaken, the only pluss is the fight against rust.

If you go to the exhaust board and read the posts about fitment Issues, they're almost always slps, while the edelbrock and headmans go in for the most part easier.

If you have a 305 you dont want to run 1 3/4, so that takes out one of the plusses, if you absolutely must have stainless over all other things (getting them to fit) then by all means, spend 2 pay checks on slp's...

 

Id Rather Spend 2 Paychecks now On SLP's Than spend a paycheck every 5 Years replacing my Rusted out Edlebrocks.

Besides, its not only about Material and the ability to have 1-3/4 Shorties.

Design plays into Flow charactoristics Alot, too.

Tell ya what, You send me your crappy SLP's and Ill send you some wonderful Edlebrocks. Deal ?

 

And I will Add, as far as not wanting 1.75" On a 305, Who Here plans to Run a 305 forever ?

Id Rather Suffer the minute torque Loss Untill I get my hypothetical 350 build done, than Buy a set of 1-5/8 now and a second set of 1-3/4 Later.

All the While enjoying the increased Power over my Stock Manifolds.


Do it Once, Do it Right, Or Do it Again.

 

*****?

 

Very Cute.

I highly doubt him, Or Tim Burgess, are running 1-5/8" Headers On either of their 305s.

And I would also be willing to Wager They are both Running SLP's, if not Hooker LT's ( whole nother ballpark )

 

Oh noooooooooo Hooker lt's aren't stainless, whatever shall we do


Oh I know... make power.

 

That, And Loose Ground Clearance, and Give up Smog Legality.

 

By all means enjoy your slp's


I know I didn't.

 

Like I said, Ill trade

 

Whatever headers you buy, get them uncoated and have them shipped directly to Jet Hot.

Stay away from Edelbrock!!!!!!!!!

I would go with SLPs if I were still in the 3rd gen game.

 

He lives in New Jersey, thats a smog state. You certainly arent getting smog legal coated headers for $305.

SLP's are a great header, but they have their problems too. If you dont like them, the Hooker 1 5/8" smog legal headers are my second choice. Just stay away from Edelcrock!

 

smog.......bwahahahahaha i geuss u guys haven't read my other posts, i am takin out the smogs and putting in straights but i geuss then i will go for slp, unless u guys thing hooker is better. i am gonna have fun with this 305 until it dies, and from what i have heard that takes a while. right now i am bargining with a guy to get his 88 or 89 gta for 1000 he wants 3000 right now, so i will wait for my 350,

 

Oh Geez...

Rip Those Smogs out! thats the Root of all your problems!

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Bort62
[B]Id Rather Spend 2 Paychecks now On SLP's Than spend a paycheck every 5 Years replacing my Rusted out Edlebrocks.







I've had my Edlebrocks since 1992 and only had to replace the Y-pipe 2 months ago.BTW they aren't coated just sprayed w/1200 degree paint.
BD3

 

If you have cheap uncoated headers and blast and repaint them every other year, they should last a long time. Some folks have the same headers in their cars from over 15 years ago because they keep them up. Any header is better that the stock exhaust, so choose what you like as far as manufacturer and just be happy with them. We ain't runnin 10 seconds here, these are mostly street driven cars that do double duty at the track for fun, so you decide. I'd stay away from the 160* stat and run a 180. The 160 won't gain anything, and may actually hurt. Search these boards and you'll find a lot of good info on what works and what doesn't, and what is just based on opinion. Good luck.

 

BD3 that quote at the end of your post is freakin funny But aint it the truth tho!

sorry for the off topic but that was funny!

 

I have had my Edelbrock TES headers on my car for almost 4 years now, completely uncoated, not even painted. I drive the car almost daily. If you run the car for at least 20 minutes every time to get the headers hot and burn out all the condensadion in the exhaust you will have no issues for a long time with them. Edelbrock headers are made of high quality tubing. Even the headers i had on my other car that were cheap under a 100.00 ones did not rust out after 10 years. Just remember to get them hot every time you run the motor.

On a side note, Are the coated headers coated on the inside too? if not i see little value in doing this at all. The condensation as the pipes cool will rust them from the inside. You will get better thermodynamics from the inside coating as well as making the headers pretty much corrosion resistant.

Gonna have to agree with the buy them once senario, get the bigger 1 3/4 headers and move on. Once you start opening up the intake/ head airflow or adding a bigger displacement engine, you will be glad you did.

 

Yes they are coated on the inside


However the coating is sprayed on, so imagine trying to spray accuratly all the way through a header tube, there are undoubtedly bare spots.