Mistar millican
Mistar millican
John,
When you fill your old bolt holes on the LT1 intake with (are you still using JB weld?) Do you just fill them and thats that? Or do prep the hole? Do you drill half way down so in case the plug falls loose it can't fall through? What method do you use?
Also do you mill a flat spot around the distrib hole for the angled spacer or do you just RTV it and call it good?
RCR and any other pioneers have you found a "best" method to your madness?
When you fill your old bolt holes on the LT1 intake with (are you still using JB weld?) Do you just fill them and thats that? Or do prep the hole? Do you drill half way down so in case the plug falls loose it can't fall through? What method do you use?
Also do you mill a flat spot around the distrib hole for the angled spacer or do you just RTV it and call it good?
RCR and any other pioneers have you found a "best" method to your madness?
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 2,361
Likes: 1
From: Savannah, GA
Car: 1997 Jeep Wrangler
Engine: 4.0L
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 8.8 rear, 4.56 gears, 4:1 transfer
Yes, I still use JB Weld. I know it's limitations but this isn't one of them. I do not prep the holes unless you call a general de-grease prep. 
I fill them and that's it. I do use a die grinder with a 1" sanding pad after they're dry (next day) on the tops to smooth out the high spots and if you paint the intake you can't even see the JB Weld. I do one side at a time, prop one side with a scrap piece of wood and fill a side while the JB weld is level otherwise it'll run out before it sets and make a mess. Ask me how I know.
The plug can't/won't fall loose. Mine has been for a year now and looks like day one still. Besides where will it go? The cylinder head is below it.
I don't MILL a flat spot around the distributor hole, I use my trusty die grinder and smooth out the high spots before mounting the angled spacer. When the intake is all done and washed out throughly, then I RTV the spacer and block off plates and tighten them down for good.

I fill them and that's it. I do use a die grinder with a 1" sanding pad after they're dry (next day) on the tops to smooth out the high spots and if you paint the intake you can't even see the JB Weld. I do one side at a time, prop one side with a scrap piece of wood and fill a side while the JB weld is level otherwise it'll run out before it sets and make a mess. Ask me how I know.

The plug can't/won't fall loose. Mine has been for a year now and looks like day one still. Besides where will it go? The cylinder head is below it.

I don't MILL a flat spot around the distributor hole, I use my trusty die grinder and smooth out the high spots before mounting the angled spacer. When the intake is all done and washed out throughly, then I RTV the spacer and block off plates and tighten them down for good.
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,526
Likes: 0
From: Cleveland, OH
Car: '87 Camaro LT
Engine: 355 L98
Transmission: T56
thought i'd ask a question of john without starting a new post....
Is a stock TPI fuel pump enough to handle an LT1 intake with 24# injectors on an L98 with LT4 hot cam or should I go with a walbro? The pump in the tank now is for carbs so I'll need to drop the tank for whichever I choose anyway so maybe I should just spend the extra $50 and get a walbro? Will a TPI pump fit the hanger that's there now or is the carb pump different? Thanks.
Is a stock TPI fuel pump enough to handle an LT1 intake with 24# injectors on an L98 with LT4 hot cam or should I go with a walbro? The pump in the tank now is for carbs so I'll need to drop the tank for whichever I choose anyway so maybe I should just spend the extra $50 and get a walbro? Will a TPI pump fit the hanger that's there now or is the carb pump different? Thanks.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 2,361
Likes: 1
From: Savannah, GA
Car: 1997 Jeep Wrangler
Engine: 4.0L
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 8.8 rear, 4.56 gears, 4:1 transfer
Don't get a parts store fuel pump. Unless you want to spend money and get a AC Delco then my choice would be to get the Walbro. It's cheaper then the AC Delco and probably better too.
I would pay and extra $50 with these pumps because of the work involved changing them, it's not something you want to do every year.
Yes, the Walbro will be great with the LT1 intake.
I would pay and extra $50 with these pumps because of the work involved changing them, it's not something you want to do every year.
Yes, the Walbro will be great with the LT1 intake.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 851
Likes: 1
From: Shelby Twp., Mi., USA
Car: '84 Fiero ('01 GA interior)
Engine: '96 4.0 Aurora
Transmission: '96 4T80E
I roughed the holes a bit and cleaned them out before putting in the J-B Weld. I taped the holes underneath to keep the "weld" from running out. One side at a time would be a good idea, as I found out also
. As for any milling:sillylol: The die grinder was my mill. Also, I "welded" my spacer in also. No leaks here.
I recommend the Walbro 255l/hr pump. And this is the place to get it: http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/
. As for any milling:sillylol: The die grinder was my mill. Also, I "welded" my spacer in also. No leaks here.I recommend the Walbro 255l/hr pump. And this is the place to get it: http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




