Cam selection for mostly stock block???
Cam selection for mostly stock block???
I need help selcting a cam for a mostly stock engine. I've done the search yet only come up with cams for super mod engine combos. I'm looking to just up the horse power on my daily driver and am not looking to pull 10 second quarter times pulling out of the toll booths on the way to work. I just want a better pull feeling from the motor when I mash the pedal.
I plan on rebuilding the engine (fist time ever) next year. My plan is to clean everything and refresh it with new gaskets, piston, rods, and the such... but I want to up the anti on the cam yet reuse my stock heads... of course I'll be porting them out a bit and putting on new rockers and springs. Not to mention a few other free mods I plan on doing.
Headers will also be in the works to match my flowmaster set up along with some new cats.
Once again, I'm not looking for certain times at the track, just a more responsive feel from the motor under WOT...
Any help you people can give me or suggestion to add to my plan would be greatly appreciated. Thanks...
I plan on rebuilding the engine (fist time ever) next year. My plan is to clean everything and refresh it with new gaskets, piston, rods, and the such... but I want to up the anti on the cam yet reuse my stock heads... of course I'll be porting them out a bit and putting on new rockers and springs. Not to mention a few other free mods I plan on doing.
Headers will also be in the works to match my flowmaster set up along with some new cats.
Once again, I'm not looking for certain times at the track, just a more responsive feel from the motor under WOT...
Any help you people can give me or suggestion to add to my plan would be greatly appreciated. Thanks...
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 12,100
Likes: 127
From: SALEM, NH
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: LC9
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.89 9"
I think you need to sit down and think more about what you really want to do. If you're gonna break down the motor that much, take part selection very seriously.
There is no real reason to replace the rods and crank unless you're gonna go with 500+ hp application. Stock rods are pretty strong for street use, unless you go up hills at 200rpm.
Anyway, You should aim for around a 350hp build.
Thats a good street build, and heck, ya might
even keep up with a 4th gen or two.
212-230 duration, 465-502 lift. Anywhere in there.
I run a 224/230 @ .502/.510 - Which works OK
with the stock prom, but idles better around
750.
If you're never gonna go blown/nitrous, might as well as go with some 9.5:1 pistons (match to your
head CC).
-- Joe
There is no real reason to replace the rods and crank unless you're gonna go with 500+ hp application. Stock rods are pretty strong for street use, unless you go up hills at 200rpm.
Anyway, You should aim for around a 350hp build.
Thats a good street build, and heck, ya might
even keep up with a 4th gen or two.
212-230 duration, 465-502 lift. Anywhere in there.
I run a 224/230 @ .502/.510 - Which works OK
with the stock prom, but idles better around
750.
If you're never gonna go blown/nitrous, might as well as go with some 9.5:1 pistons (match to your
head CC).
-- Joe
you might wanna check out Competition Cams, they have so many different grinds for every application. If you are running a roller cam their Xtreme Energy series is the best.....If yo don't know where to find them, well, go to SummitRacing.Com
this cam works well in 305s that have flat tappet hydrolic cams, it worth about 30hp with no other changes and still passes emission testing too.
http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/D...1=Display+Card
here this might help also
http://www.ws6transam.org/ported.html
http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/D...1=Display+Card
here this might help also
http://www.ws6transam.org/ported.html
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