Please help before I kick the crap out of my 87 IROC!! * PART 2 *
Please help before I kick the crap out of my 87 IROC!! * PART 2 *
Ok, well it's not the battery because all my electronics are in perfect working condition. No dimming when i try to crank the engine. I even took my battery out and tested it on a neighbors car and it cranked for him.
The engine does not turn over at all. It is silent. I need some serious help.........
Please guide me to a new direction.
Thanks.
The engine does not turn over at all. It is silent. I need some serious help.........
Please guide me to a new direction.
Thanks.
There is a fuse that goes directly to your starter from the battery. The fuse is under the hood, just behind your battery. The fuse is clipped to the top of your passenger side fender. This was the problem in my car twice, and the symptoms were exatly as you explained.
Good luck
jake
Good luck
jake
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 575
Likes: 0
From: MI
Car: I
Engine: Taunt
Transmission: Mustangs
I read your old post. Here it is for anyone else interested: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=147176
I have a very similar car and mine did the same thing one day in my driveway after a carwash. I would suggest testing the starter itself, that's what caused this condition on my car. There is good news in this post. First, testing it is easy as he11. I got this method straight form a chiltons manual: get under your car and give the solinoid (small cylinder on the starters side) on the starter (lower passenger side of engine block) a few moderate to heavy taps with a hammer. Then try to start your car. If it turns over after doing this, you need a new starter. If this is the case there is even more good news. A new starter is only like 25 bucks if you trade in your old one. There is some bad news though. Getting the starter out and the new one in is a mindbending challenge simmialr to a rubix cube. Mine came out without too much fuss, but to get it back in I had to compress the front passenger side suspension a bit to get it through. If you end up having to change yours out you'll know what I am talking about when you start to 'dig in'.
Good Luck
I have a very similar car and mine did the same thing one day in my driveway after a carwash. I would suggest testing the starter itself, that's what caused this condition on my car. There is good news in this post. First, testing it is easy as he11. I got this method straight form a chiltons manual: get under your car and give the solinoid (small cylinder on the starters side) on the starter (lower passenger side of engine block) a few moderate to heavy taps with a hammer. Then try to start your car. If it turns over after doing this, you need a new starter. If this is the case there is even more good news. A new starter is only like 25 bucks if you trade in your old one. There is some bad news though. Getting the starter out and the new one in is a mindbending challenge simmialr to a rubix cube. Mine came out without too much fuss, but to get it back in I had to compress the front passenger side suspension a bit to get it through. If you end up having to change yours out you'll know what I am talking about when you start to 'dig in'.
Good Luck
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,954
Likes: 68
From: NC
Car: 1987 Iroc
Engine: 357 Single plane and a Ysi vortech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.50 9"
I say starter because I think the fuse he is talking about goes to the fuel pump.
Had the same thing happen on my car.
Chris
Had the same thing happen on my car.
Chris
Trending Topics
Hitting the starter with a hammer isn't just for getting frustrations out. The reason you have to tap the starter with a hammer is because something inside eventually develops a "flat spot". By tapping on the starter, you are actually moving parts inside just a tad to where it'll work again. It's only a temporary "fix" and could fail on you the next time try to start the car.
Just thought I'd throw in a few words to somewhat explain the hammer on the starter thing.
Just thought I'd throw in a few words to somewhat explain the hammer on the starter thing.
Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 476
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver, Canada
Car: 1992 Z28 1LE
Engine: 350
Transmission: T5
have you checked for spark? Maybe the ignition module has died on you. I've had very unfortunate luck with ignition modules (I can go through at least 3 in a year, and so I just replaced my distributor for an MSD one; hopefully it'll be the end of that). I say check for spark. That's where my money is at.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,823
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio, TX
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: L98 (350 TPI)
Transmission: MD8 (700 R4) + 3.42 LS1 Rear
it's either the starter, fusible link, neutral start switch or the ignition switch. more than likely it's the starter. do what the guys suggested above, tapping the starter. then try "jumping" the solenoid. since the battery tested ok do the following. get a piece of 12 guage wire and run it from where the "big nut"(large guage wire) is and jump it over the to the solenoid "little nut"(small guage wire). see what it does. if it does nothing then the starter is more than likely bad. if it cranks then the problem lies elsewhere. start looking at a fuseable link, neutral start switch, or ignition switch. report back with results. to help continue diagnosing the problem.
Last edited by mystikkal_69; Dec 4, 2002 at 10:49 PM.
can you please explain more about the neutral switch???
I have changed all of the above, distributor for an MSD one, ignition mod for an MSD one, wires, plugs............
I called the previous owner of the car and the starter is brand new. The engine only has 6000 miles on it. So what is this manual neutral switch???
Thanks.
I have changed all of the above, distributor for an MSD one, ignition mod for an MSD one, wires, plugs............
I called the previous owner of the car and the starter is brand new. The engine only has 6000 miles on it. So what is this manual neutral switch???
Thanks.
Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 476
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver, Canada
Car: 1992 Z28 1LE
Engine: 350
Transmission: T5
have you checked for spark and/or fuel? You probably have, but reading back through the posts you didn't mention if you did or not, and those are part of the basic troubleshooting procedures... even if you did change most/all of the ignition components.
The Neutral Safetey switch is located In the Center Console.
It will not let you start the car, Or Open the Hatch, Unless you are in Park or Neutral.
Its not likely this has failed. You need to Jumper the solenoid And see if the starter cranks before you get all involved in chasing other avenues.
KISS, Starters are notorious for going bad, fast. Its just the way it is with unskilled labor rebuilding Eletrical Components.
It will not let you start the car, Or Open the Hatch, Unless you are in Park or Neutral.
Its not likely this has failed. You need to Jumper the solenoid And see if the starter cranks before you get all involved in chasing other avenues.
KISS, Starters are notorious for going bad, fast. Its just the way it is with unskilled labor rebuilding Eletrical Components.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,823
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio, TX
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: L98 (350 TPI)
Transmission: MD8 (700 R4) + 3.42 LS1 Rear
Originally posted by Bort62
Its not likely this has failed. You need to Jumper the solenoid And see if the starter cranks before you get all involved in chasing other avenues.
KISS, Starters are notorious for going bad, fast. Its just the way it is with unskilled labor rebuilding Eletrical Components.
Its not likely this has failed. You need to Jumper the solenoid And see if the starter cranks before you get all involved in chasing other avenues.
KISS, Starters are notorious for going bad, fast. Its just the way it is with unskilled labor rebuilding Eletrical Components.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mustangman65_79
Body
3
Aug 11, 2015 03:17 PM









