I had a 383 4 bolt K block built with forged eagle 4340 crank forged eagle 5.7 H beam 4340 rods J&E forged pistons running 8.5-1 comp with 64 cc trick flow twisted wedge heads (milled .050) 2.02 in. 1.6 ex. roller rockers ratio is 1.5 and roller cam with a lift of .510 in. .510 ex. 114* lobe seperation with in. duration 220 ex. duration 230 at .050 cloyes true hex adjust dbl roller fed by a TPI with edelbrock ported base edelbrock large runners ported plenum and 58mm TB with a paxton Sn 2000 running 5-7 Lbs of boost Walbro 255 LPH in tank pump and a MSD 6L doug thourly headers dumping into full duel 2-1/2" exhaust with X pipe and two stage delta flow Flowmasters in a 95 chevy truck 1500 2wd reg. cab short bed. What I am looking for is some help or referral to somebody that would know what other things I might need like injector size what FMU ratio will I need a boost timing retard box? who can burn a chip to run this? what kind of power am I looking at? all is built and ready to be installed as soon as I have time to remove the heads off current motor and install on new motor and figure out fuel and prom chip issues some of the injection pics can be seen on my website but this pic is about 1 year old and much has changed I will be updating to new pics very soon
Thanks
Kevin
you can post here or at my web site at; http://www.geocities.com/tpiecology/

funny, but i have somewhat the same setup in my 3rd gen, somehow i cannot answer the question though, for i still have the stock 1986305TPI prom, i have an ATI at about9-10psi. as for power, i would guess around 500flywheel HP with your parts you listed. What exactly are you asking? prom burning?? i wish i knew, HP? download DesktopDyno2000.... and for injector size, i have been running best on 30lbers, i suggest the same.

Paxton should be able to help you with the fuel needs, no? Also, check out www.fastchip.com They should be able to burn you a new prom for your set up. good luck

so you are running fine with stock prom and 30# injectors how are you on timing and are you using a FMU? if so what ratio? how is this combination on street and strip power?

the drivability of my car is OK, but definantly needs tunning, when cold it idles poor, and when warm it idles only when foot on gas. it drives fine, never backfires, never falls on its face, base timing is at 6*, and i always run atleast 93 octane fuel. i think the reason for poor idle is the fact that the computer "thinks" the injectors are still 19# but are actually 30#, wich causes it to run rich at idle, and under boost, the added compressed air somewhat makes up for it. i just bought a programmer though, so hopefully it will be much much more driveable/ idle quality.