Code 22 Errors, over a month of troubleshooting, no luck
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Joined: May 2002
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From: www.hrfbody.com
Car: www.hrfbody.com
Engine: www.hrfbody.com
Code 22 Errors, over a month of troubleshooting, no luck
I have been getting code 22 non stop. The car is undrivable at this point.
I've replaced the TPS sensor, and checked the voltage. I can't figure it out.
The car will idle just fine and smoothly, but when I try to drive it it bogs down so bad I A. can't go above 25mph or B. it stalls.
It makes a horrible noise like a blender going off inside the intake.
Its almost like the car doesn't know where the throttle is at and its dropping cyclinders maybe?
I've checked spark plugs wires, just but everything I can think of and I am so ready to give up and sell the car.
I've replaced the TPS sensor, and checked the voltage. I can't figure it out.
The car will idle just fine and smoothly, but when I try to drive it it bogs down so bad I A. can't go above 25mph or B. it stalls.
It makes a horrible noise like a blender going off inside the intake.
Its almost like the car doesn't know where the throttle is at and its dropping cyclinders maybe?
I've checked spark plugs wires, just but everything I can think of and I am so ready to give up and sell the car.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 649
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From: San Rafael, CA
Car: 1988 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 5.7L TPI (L98)
Transmission: 700RJunk
Did you check the wiring? One of the 3 wires connected to the TPS is supposed to have a constant 5 volts with the ignition on, one wire goes back to the ecm, and the other wire carries that 5 volts to other sensors. If its anything, its probably that wire going back to the ecm, because if those other wires were messed up, you'd issues with other sensors. You will need to the continuity between the harness connector and the corresponding pin at main connector to the ecm.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 726
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From: Atco, NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: th400
First things first, with the car off, with your DMM check the output wire on the plug(backprobing it) for a steady increase in voltage from around .5 of a volt to 4.5 volts. if it has no dead spots, the tps component is ok. if you are still getting the code, pull the computer down, and back probe the connection at the ECM while someone slowly opens the throttle, make sure you are getting the signal there. if you are not, you've got a broken wire.
Have you checked the catalytic converter, it sounds oddly like it's restricted, letting no air through. That too will cause popping in the manifold, poor acceleration, stumbling and stalling under power.
the simplest ways to check the Cat are these.
First bang on the bottom of it with a mallet, to see if you can hear it's internals banging around. if you hear what sounds like marbles or a broke dinner plate int here, it's bad.
If it passes that test. you need to jack that side of the car up, and take an oil based tire chalk marker. yellow prefferably, and with the car off and cold put a stripe longways a bout 6" long down from the inlet of the cat forward, and another one on the outlet of the cat about 6" long going back.
leave the car in the air. and fire it up. if your slick you'll have a buddy hold the throttle at about 2000rpm and stay under the car looking at the stripes.
If the rear stripe burns off first, and turns white or dissapears the cat works. if the front stripe burns off first the cat is bad.
an unrestriced working cat will be hotter by a hundred degrees or so on the outlet side, the rear stripe will burn off far sooner.
Have you checked the catalytic converter, it sounds oddly like it's restricted, letting no air through. That too will cause popping in the manifold, poor acceleration, stumbling and stalling under power.
the simplest ways to check the Cat are these.
First bang on the bottom of it with a mallet, to see if you can hear it's internals banging around. if you hear what sounds like marbles or a broke dinner plate int here, it's bad.
If it passes that test. you need to jack that side of the car up, and take an oil based tire chalk marker. yellow prefferably, and with the car off and cold put a stripe longways a bout 6" long down from the inlet of the cat forward, and another one on the outlet of the cat about 6" long going back.
leave the car in the air. and fire it up. if your slick you'll have a buddy hold the throttle at about 2000rpm and stay under the car looking at the stripes.
If the rear stripe burns off first, and turns white or dissapears the cat works. if the front stripe burns off first the cat is bad.
an unrestriced working cat will be hotter by a hundred degrees or so on the outlet side, the rear stripe will burn off far sooner.
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