I was told that Stroker Motors usually don't last too long and was wondering if this was true? And if not, does anyone know of any dynos on a 335 stroker motor with the TPI? Any information will help.

 

I think Chevy High Performance did a build up with the 335 stroker kit and they claimed 95HP on a carb and 115 on a TPI car. You can get the kit from http://www.enginekits.com I think they even have a link to the article.

As far as the stroker thing I wouldn't believe it. There are at least one user on the board here that has been running with that 335 kit for awhile now.

I don't think that what you heard or read about stroker motors is true.

 

I've got a 335 stroker with basically stock TPI. You can check out most of my mods on my webpage. I haven't dynoed it yet since the motor isn't fully broken in, but the car will be on the road in a few weeks...so I'm gonna rack up some miles and take it to the dyno.

As for what I think it will pull...honestly I don't know. I've only talked to one other guy before with a 335 and it was a completely different combo. He had AFR heads, a mild cam, T56, a few other mods and was running 12.7 @ 112mph I beleive on a 2.2 60 foot.

My guess is I'll have around 230rwhp and 300rwtq, maybe more ...maybe less, who knows. Only time will tell.

Stroker motors do put more stress on the cylinder walls, but I beleive if everything is machined correctly...the clearances are all similar, that it will last just as long as most performance motors. Just my opinion though.

 

If everything is built correctly with good parts and machining, a stroker motor will last as well as anything else when you put some spirited driving into it. Look at the 396 stroker GMHTP mag has in the 93 'bird. THey put about 50,000 hard miles on it and when they rebuilt it, it had much more left in it.

So far I have about 5000 miles on my 383 and it will last for years to come.

Anyone who tells you strokers don't last is probably had one that was of poor quality and then of course it won't last long.

I actually looked into a 335 a few years ago. In the end I went with the 383 because I had it from a previous project. If not for that, I would probably have the 335. Good luck...

 

Stroker motors will hold up just fine. Other than a little extra side loading on the pistons & bores, there's no difference.

BUT... I would think long and hard about stroking a 305. You can build a 350 for less money, wind up with a much better bore size, better bore to stroke ratio, and get more power and torque at all rpms... for less money. The only thing a 335 gets you is an empty wallet and satisfaction of knowing you made moderate amounts of power with a sh*tty bore size.

 

I don't know about that. Willie made a good point when something similar was said on the Motor Swap board.

Sure you have to pay for machining and the stroker kit. I don't know what all the machine work will cost, but the kit is not much more than a regular kit to rebuild a 350. Certainly on par with a 383 kit. I can't imagine that it would cost more to machine a 305 than a 350?!

But if you have a 305 you already own it. You don't have to pay for a 350 block. You also don't have to worry about shipping if you buy it somewhere you can't pick it up. Or you may have to incure shipping charges if you don't have a truck or a means to go pick it up either.

I agree that the 350 is the way to go in the long run if you have goals beyond 400HP. But not being out the cost of en engine block saves a little bit of coin.

 

Easy. Factor in the cost of the stroker kit (Don't forget, you need custom pistons for this swap) and it comes up higher than what it costs to buy a 350 block & crank.

From Enginekits.com:
$600.

You can pick up a 350 block for a hundred bucks, and I think I paid $125 for my 10/10 crank. It would have been around the same cost to get my stock 350 crank turned. Even if you get a full 350 long block with the crank and heads, you are looking at $600 or less. No matter how you slice it, the 335 costs as much or more, and you get less.

The machine work for the 305 and 350 costs the same, but since either would need it, that winds up as a wash.

Now, let's consider that every 305 on the planet has heads that are restrictive and use tiny valves. What do you think those heads are going to do on a 335? They're going to be a major restriction. So, to make any power at all, you're going to need heads. Granted most 350 heads are crap too, but most are better than 305 heads. You could do a head swap, but hey... that's just more work and more expense necessary to play "catch up" with the 335.

No matter how you look at it, the 335 costs more than the 350 and absolutely will not ever provide equal results when all other criteria are equal.

 

Machining for a stroked 305 will ABSOLUTELY cost more than a basic re-work on a standard 350. Strokers need cylinder walls and pan rails notched. And depending on the roads in the 'kit', you might need a small base circle cam too, adding to the cost.

If you don't have a truck, how the hell are you going to get the 305 to the machine shop in the first place? So that part of your argument makes no sense.

If you need to get a 350 block shipped to you, then you are not looking very hard at all, or you live in africa or something. 350 blocks are everywhere, in every junkyard and machine shop in this country. And they are cheap too. I wouldn't pay more than $50-100 for a complete rebuildable 350.


In other words, there is simply no way that a 335 works out to costing even close to the same amount as an off the shelf 350. As for potential, the only guy in this thread with a 335 says it best. "goals of 230 rwhp and 300rwtq" Well, considering any bolt on L98 can beat those numbers, i fail to see the point to spending more on a stroked 305. Hell, even hot 305 can beat those numbers.

 

Well that information is most usefull on the machining of the 305. I now know why it would cost more to do. Besides the stroker kit itself.

I do have a truck. But not everyone does. Some people have to ship things around to get stuff done. Period.

As far as finding a 350 block. Yeah it is easy. Depending on what your are looking for. Before I buy a block I want to make sure all my accessories and emissions control equipment will work. I need one for my TPI setup. Older blocks won't work for this necessarily.

Am I wrong on that? I want a roller block not the flat tappet cam style. It is a preference of mine.

I can agree that HP for $$$ 305s cost more. The more I look into the more I can conclude that this is the case.

 

I have posted the same topic on here before and asked everyone what they thought and not to bring up the "build a 350 instead "but everyone did anyways.. No one really is very helpful on this topic.. Then I told them that I already have a a low 10sec 400(69-valiant), a low 12 sec 350(4th gen WS6) why not have a 12sec 305... I say if you wanna do it go for it, unless your looking for a 10sec car, buit it is nice to pull 11.5 at the track and tell everyone it's only a 305(335stroker), I ve seen a guy like that in fl at the track I was very impressed... Take it easy......

 

Sure. If you've got money to burn or a point to prove then why not?

For the rest of us that just want to go as fast as we can afford to go, you need to re-arrange priorities.

 

Of course he could always have a 400 instead of a 335 even, and nobody would still know the difference (assuming you snag a 2 freeze plug 400 block). Both guys i know with fast '334's actually were running 350s. They started telling people they were 334s as a joke, and then the joke stuck so they just held on to the 'sleeper' image of the easy lie.

Also used to be good friends with a guy running 110mph in a full weight 70 chevelle with 'just a mild/stock 350', idled smooth as a stocker and everything. What's a 420 in a 2 freeze plug 400 block among friends?

My point, i don't know. I guess it's that it's so easy to lie about what's in a SBC anyway, that only a schmuck believes what the other guy tells him anyway. If you want to be different, why not try to go fast with a NA V6 or iron duke.

DreamState, you truly are in one if you can afford to build 10 and 12 second cars, and then purposely handicap yourself for a little more challenge on your latest project. 99.9999% of the people reading here have the opposite goal where they want as much performance for as little $$$ as possible, they can't afford to waste the advantage of a bigger engine with much better head availability.

 

Don't put words in my mouth. I never said my goal was 230rwhp, thats pathetic. I'm just saying thats what it MIGHT pull on the dyno, maybe more...maybe less...who knows.

And I did the block clearancing myself. There's no need to send the block out to be clearanced, if you have basic mechanical knowledge. Just use your gut feeling on how much you want to "grind" out. I used a Dremel tool by the way.

Everything else you guys said is about right. I did a 335 stroker to be different and because I already had a 305. I don't want a 12 sec street car or anything, just something to have some fun with. Plus it was my first motor I built, so it was a fun opportunity.

Good luck to everyone.

 

An older block will work fine. I am using an 80 block as the foundation for my stroker. Everything fits fine externally. I did have to elongate a few holes on the accessory brackets, but that may be because of the heads as well. AFR does say in its installation guide that that may be necessary. I am using the retrofit roller lifters so that costs a little more. You will also need a different oil pan. Otherwise everything else should fit just fine...

 

I think for simplicity sake for my first engine swap I will try and find an L98 and do the rebuild on it with performance parts.

I am working on a deal right now for one. I won't pay to much for one right now though. This seems like a good deal. I wasn't looking to buy right now but why the hell not if I can get it cheap enough.

 

If you are getting a deal, jump on it.