Ok after searching for 1 hour I understand everyones frustration with all of the code 33 problems but I did not find an answer for myself. I used the GM manual to test everything....

Jumped "G" to 12v and did not get a light from maf harness "E"
so
Disconnected maf power relay.....got a light form the org wires (340) but did not get a light from the tan/wht wire (120).
Now what? I checked the ground to the relay and it worked. Unfortunately my manual stops here so I don't know what to check next? By the way....87 TPI GTA, I do have alot of porting, cam, headers, etc. but I think it is a wiring prob.
Thanks,
Tyler

 

Update...

Ok the tan/wht wire problem is fixed so I cleared the computer and went for a drive. After about 10 minutes of the car running extremely rich (black smoke) the ses came on and it was a code 33 again. So....
Maf is getting power....

Test light to 12 volts I jump to maf harness terminals "A" & "B" and light comes on for both....

Ignition on, probe maf harness terminal "D" and get 12 volts and I am not supposed to. ...

I disconnected the maf sensor burn-off relay and repeated the test. Still get 12 volts....

The manual says to "Repair short to voltage in ckt 994 from relay to maf sensor or faulty maf power relay"

I replaced the power relay twice and that did nothing, how do I check for a short to voltage in ckt 994. I am not quite sure what I am looking for here? I switched gages a long time ago and ditched the oil pressure sending unit behind the manifold on top of the engine could this be the problem?
Thanks for the help and sorry for another one of these posts,
Tyler

 

If you did a search you probably already read this but I'll point it to you anyway. Read this: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...light=maf+code

I had the same problem a couple of years ago and found this to be the only solution to my code 33. I was running a 383 with a pretty mild cam and Accel intake with SLP runners. I didn't have the code 33. As soon as I put the 58mm throttle body on I couldn't drive around the block without getting it. Put the stock 48mm TB back on and it was gone. Put the 58mm back on and the code 33 was back. The only solution was exactly as described in the thread above. Have a PROM burned with the 'MAF High Diagnostic (Error 33) Threshold' value raised from the factory 45 gm/sec to 55 gm/sec.

Although the thread above says he raised it to 255 which is fine to get rid of it altogether, I only went to 55 and my problem was solved.

I was helped in solving this because I was running scanning software daily, didn't have the problem until I changed the TB, and could duplicate the cause of it, or make it go away. Without the proper diagnostic tools I'd would have been as lost as last years Easter eggs.

I'm NOT saying this is the ONLY solution, or even that you don't have another problem, I'm just passing on information that solved the code 33 for me.

Good luck and hope this helps!

 

damn, i never thought of the tb! i put a 58mm on there and then like a week later the light came on. when it says high voltage, what causes "high voltage" is it more air moving through the maf, and it causes a problem cause the comp thinks there shouldnt be that much air moving through it? to me that makes sense.

 

Check out the link that was posted. I had this dreaded code 33 problem and couldn't fix it. Does the car run any different when the code pops up. My car would hesitate right before the light would come on then run horrible. If you have the same symptoms then check out the link that was already posted. I had to burn a new chip. good luck..

 

Yes I have read the link and I am planning on working on it more Monday. I will get back with all of you about what I find. Thanks for the help,
Tyler