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High Idle after superram install

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Old Oct 6, 2003 | 10:53 AM
  #1  
Larry Dunlap's Avatar
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From: Katy, Texas
Car: '91 Formula
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH350 built
Axle/Gears: 3.73
High Idle after superram install

Finaly got the PITA superram intake installed, base, runners and plenum. I already had a 52mm TB. Installed 24 lb injectors as well. Two things

One - the idle is quite high, like 1200rpm. The idle adjustment screw is all the way out. Is there any way to adjust this? Is this bad, other than wasting gas? I only take the car out on weekends to race or cruise anyway so gas mileage is not a huge concern. What about inspection?

Two - it seems to run a little hotter. Noticing just the temperature under the hood, and in traffic it runs a mark or two higher on the stock dash temp gauge. Again, not a big deal for a non daily driver, just wondering why. Have 180 thermo and fans are set to go on a 180degrees
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Old Oct 6, 2003 | 11:03 AM
  #2  
kevinc's Avatar
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Car: 1982 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Troubleshoot for a vacuum leak, high idle is a typical symptom.
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Old Oct 6, 2003 | 11:04 AM
  #3  
Larry Dunlap's Avatar
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From: Katy, Texas
Car: '91 Formula
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH350 built
Axle/Gears: 3.73
OK, wouldn't I have a check engine light though? Most likely leaking at plenum lid to plenum I assume
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Old Oct 6, 2003 | 11:32 AM
  #4  
1bad91Z's Avatar
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From: Houston Area
Car: Faster
Engine: Than
Transmission: You!
Vaccum leaks wont always set codes. It could 3 things or a combination of the 3.

1 - vaccum leaks (anywhere on intake or throttle body)
2 - TPS sensor needs adjustment
3 - base timing is off


The last two are easy to track down and fix. It's the intake thats the pain in the butt to find the leaks.

Also, Accel had quality control issues with their Super-ram lids and they offered free replacement with a smooth billet lid for customers with warped (leaky) lids. You may want to call them.
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Old Oct 6, 2003 | 12:51 PM
  #5  
Larry Dunlap's Avatar
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From: Katy, Texas
Car: '91 Formula
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH350 built
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Thanks, Yeah, the TPS and timing are the same as before the install, so its got to be a leak. Crap!. Most likely its the plenum lid. Thats the easiest to do first. Then start down to the plenum to runners, runners to base, base to motor. Hope I don't have to go that far. I was quite careful on everything except the plenum lid. The lid had one bolt that was stripped so I RTVd it, also only put RTV on gasket to plenum, not gasket to lid. Im going to pull off the lid and helicoil the stripped bolt, then RTV the crap out of it and put it back on, then pray that solves it. I sure don't want to take this other stuff back off again.
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Old Oct 8, 2003 | 07:56 AM
  #6  
Larry Dunlap's Avatar
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From: Katy, Texas
Car: '91 Formula
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH350 built
Axle/Gears: 3.73
I redid the plenum lid and it helped a little, down from 1200 rpm to about 1000rpm. One of the plenum lid bolts was stripped, originally I RTVd it. This time I helicoiled it and then put thread sealer on all bolts. I think I figured out the problem though. When I put on the plenum to the runners, I put RTV down, then placed the plenum on. Then I got some bolts started but not tightened and had to leave for few hours. Then came back and put the rest of the bolts and tightened them all. I think the RTV probably dried before the plenum was completely seated, then when tightened the RTV held it up in places where there was no RTV. I purchased a new gasket set yesterday from LPE and when it gets here Im going to pull the plenum off, redo the gasket, put RTV and tighten the all at once. I don't think the problem is in the base or runners. I tightened the base with a torque wrench and proper sequencing. All runner bolts were tight, however I did reuse the runner to base gaskets, they looked good though. Anyway, IM waiting til i get the gaskets and a Fuel pressure gauge and AFP regulator to put them on while the plenum is off. I bought some carb cleaner but havent tried it yet. If this doesn't work, I will.
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