Everything went together well yesterday. Got everything finished up about 4 in the morning. This engine is really going to kick some stuff! The throttle snaps open almost instantaneously with the slightest touch of the pedal and the engine snarls wickedly when you give it gas. I'd have to say it sounds 10x's more wicked than my old SR/190/219 combo.

I did have a couple of problems during the install including putting the wrong flexplate on the engine. The main problem I'm having is that the oil pan is leaking at the front of the pan. I'll look at it or have my mechanic friend look at it hopefully tomorrow, I hope it's just the bolts need to be tightened. The other problem I have is that the tach isn't working. I have a MSD digital 6 ignition maybe the tach connect is different cause of the MSD? Can someone help me about hooking up the tach? Another quesion I have is how do I disable the ECM when I want to set the base timing when you run an MSD ignition? I disconnected the brown EST wire, but nothing happened. The computer was still advancing the timing. The base ended being 12 deg adv. w/ the ECM adding timing and my total timing at 3k was 30 degs. according to my timing light. Maybe LETHAL rewired some stuff, but I'm confused??? If anyone can help with these two problems, please do so.

 

What distributor/module are you using? MSD modules seem to not let you disconnect the computer with the EST connector. Actually I would never run an MSD distributor on that car again. I went through three of them and about nine of thier modules. I think it is the.500 shaft that they use. I don't know. If you have a stock distributor and module in there it will work fine. As far as the tach goes, I didn't mess with the stock tach. Every thing "WAS" hooked up right. I followed MSD's instructions to the T. I think I left the instructions in the back of the car. All of the wireing and splicing is confusing. That is why I alwayse had the MSD instructions in there. For the shift light to work you do have to connect the small green wire to the dual white hook up on the main harness. The timing I have in the prom is 24* add the initial of 12* and you should have 36* total by 2,600 at WOT. If the EST is not working you should have like 22*-26* at idle and in the 40*'s at 3,000. There is no way to check total timing with a timing light on these cars. You can't duplicate WOT with out really doing it. There is no mechanicle or vacuum advance the computer does all of that. That is why you only set the initial advance. I liked 12* best on the combo I was running. I will look up the timing table tonight and varify what I put in there. Keep me updated. Any questions shoot me an E-mail.

 

Thanks for the reply, Brett. Right now I'm still waiting on my friend to check and see where the oil leak is coming from, I think it's the pan. I also noticed that a valve cover bolt is broken off in the head. My machine shop missed this and I can't believe it. I'll probably have an issure there, but I'm going to try to get it out somehow.

I'm still running the igniton components and everything else like that the way I bought the car. I just want to know how and where the stock tach hooks up. Do you know what the colors of the wires are? I thought I hooked everything back up, but maybe there are some exposed wires. I just want to know where to start, since it's so cold outside. Let me know, Later.

Joe

 

I will have to try to find you some instructions and mail them to you. But if the car starts I would say you have got it hooked up right. I think the tack wire is a white wire. It should all be there in the coil to distributor harness and another connector that goes to the main harness and the distributor. There is a direct connection to the Dig 6 but I didn't use it. It is for an aftermarket tach. Just dig around in there and see if any thing is loose. Like I said earlier the only reason the EST would not work for me was if the module was bad or after market. The stock one will work correctly. Check that first. If the harness wireing is not hooked up correctly that could be a problem also. I just never ran into that one. Where is there a broken bolt in the head? Did that happen on dissasembly? That could cause an oil leak if the cover doesn't seal all the way. Let me know what you find.

 

Thanks. You didn't know about the valve cover?? There's orange RTV on both valve covers in the bolt hole that would correspond to the broken bolt. It looks like both valve covers were used on the head with the broken bolt at some point. It looks like somebody knew about the problem.

 

There should have been RTV in all of the bolt holes. The oil wants to creep up all the bolts and leak. There was a bolt in that hole when you got the car right? I would have fixed that if I knew about it. It would only take five minutes with a drill and an easy out. Just don't heat it up being aluminum and all. I too just had the heads off. I would have fixed it then if I knew it was broken. Those are also new valve covers. I haven't taken them off since I put them on there. I could have over tightend them and started to break it then but I don't think I did. You can blame me for that one if you want. But past all that. Did you figure out the tach? I can't find the instructions, I must have sent them with the car. Did you check the module to see if it was bad yet?

 

The valve cover isn't a problem right now, although it leaked so bad on the trip home that the whole passengers side exhaust pipe had a nice oily coating. It was really laughable that I never noticed it, but I was running on no sleep on the ride home. That may have had something to do with me not noticing the oil gauge until the engine was already gone. Oh, well. I haven't been back out to the garage yet. My friend supposedly looked at but I'll know tomorrow. Oh yeah a funny thing was installing the rev kit. It was a ****, but it wasn't crap with the engine out of the car. You just have to have some muscles and use them to compress the springs by way of some needle nosed pliers. I got about five in and my friend got the rest in in under 20 min. He's a pretty intuitive guy as well as being stronger than a ox.

 

That's why I said get the tool.

 

Uhhh....my point was that the rev kit was EASY to install. My "red-neck" buddy John wanted me to tell the "hillbilly" buddy I bought the car from that installing the rev kit was cake since everyone says you need the tool. LOL I was the one who thought it was kind of tough, but I made it sound like it was harder that it was. Really you guys made it sound impossible w/o the tool when in fact that's not the case. Another thing is that the valve cover is leaking like hell just like when I bought the car. You should have told me about this, man.

 

I am glad it was easy for you, or him. The valve cover didn't leak for me. But what ever man. I thought I fixed all the problems that the car had. I guess I was wrong about that. Besides, any problem that comes up you will assume was prexisting no matter what I say. That is cool. I guess I can't blame you. Mabey it is cursed, I don't know. It would be hard for me to be a hill billy being from San Francisco. But I do love those red necks. Well good luck with what ever else breaks.

 

Alright, I know you're worried about your "internet image" and everything, but I would have to call you a flat-out lier for saying you did not know about a valve cover leak that was so bad that it probably left a trail from Sanford NC to Louville KY. I tried to be nice but if all you want to do is be a smart a$$ and snicker about everything, I'll just go ahead with what I really think.

 

Nothing against you Joe but I think it's pretty common knowledge to check the car over well before buying & anything you find after that point you pretty much have accepted responsibility for. You'll always find things wrong with any car and some of them will be unknown to the seller simply because they did not check it over as carefully as you the buyer. It doesn't sound very serious to me and I'd just fix it and get on with the project.

You should be able to extract the bolt unless it's seized and in that case you may need to put some heat on it first or maybe even try tack welding another bolt on-to it so you can get a better grip. I'd try that before drilling & tapping, but even then there's not much pressure on a valve-cover bolt so an epoxied heli-coil should live just fine there.

 

305, I may have sounded a little harsh. But I have the right to be that way. The car didn't have any leaks when I first examined it and I was told that it didn't have any. It did and I was told there were nonein plain & simple. What do you call that? I just felt like I've been bs'd some and I don't like it. Try asking Lethal about the valve springs. He said he ordered and installed the Comp 950's before he sold the car. It's funny how after tearing the heads down I find solid rollers springs installed that are killing the lifters. But according to him these were the hyd. roller springs, he swore by it. I mean you don't just put springs on w/o checking them, unless you're an idiot. Point is the springs weren't what he said they were and I remember he said when I bought the car that he installed new springs because of valve-float problems. Now he's trying to say the springs on the motor were the 950's and that that's what he ordered. I saw them compared to my new 950's with my own eyes at the shop. Maybe he did order the 950's and got the wrong springs, but that's something that you don't f'cking guess on. It just so happens that one of those stiff solid roller springs was broken, I forgot to mention that. I don't know how that figured into the engine failure, but that's not important or maybe it is. Anyway believe what you want, the valve cover is the least of my worries, with all the **** that's went wrong with this car, yet it is something that would **** you off too. I wouldn't post this stuff, if I didn't feel it is necisarry for others who may do business w/others on this forum. People need to know this kind of $hit. And no matter what he says, I think Lethal knew there was a problem w/ this car because of the super low oil pressure, that's why he sold it. But opinions are like a-holes, and it's my own fault that I bought a lemon. This and other posts about this car and my incident are for educational purposes only. Guys and girls all I ask is that you learn from my stupid mistakes, yes this car was a bad purchase even with all the parts (big deal) and make sure you don't do the same.

 

Dude, you still got a low eleven second car even after your troubles and the money you spent for under $11,000. So quit you boo hooing. I think it has been determined that I couldn't have known about the engine problems. It just so happens that it blew up on you not me. The oil pressure was fine until you drove it. Plain and simple. That issue has been beaten to death. I told you I would keep the car if you didn't want to pay for it. Besides you were looking for an easy way to a fast car because you couldn't do it on your own. I drove the car you drove the car. If there were any oil leaks they would have been apparent by then. But there werent. I told you to look up the springs in the recipts. I orderd the right ones and received the right box. How many times have you received the right box and all and got the wrong part. They are both dual valve springs and have roughly the same dimensions. Plus all the supporting parts fit. The plane and simple facts is that you probably drove the car like an a$$hole for five or six hours and you pushed it too hard. I think our difference in car knowlege has been proven to be in my favor on this site. It is time to stop crying dry up the tears and suck it up. If you don't believe me or want to smear me and call me names that's cool I really don't care. It's called being a grown up. You should try it some time. I am done with you. I was going to try to get you money back from Speed-O-Motive but forget it. Find some one else to feel sorry for you.

 

here we go, getting banned again but camarojoe=whimpering pup
Buddy, STFU and move on

 

LOL, yeah, people on hear would love to do more business w/ a guy that lies on the net! As far as speedomotive, you never said anything about helping me out, you just said to send you some documentation. Yeah, so you could get the money you dishonest punk. The oil pressure was at 10lbs and stayed at 10lbs when I was riding in the car the first time. I can't believe your lying to cover your a$$. And you live up to your dishonesty by calling names and turning this thread into a flame war. Truth is the car is up and running better than the f'd pile of problems you sold me, lol. Another thing I like is your "hillbillyesque" wiring harness hack job, lol. No wonder it took so long to hook the tack, because of all that electric tape. Dude I'm the one that's done, you've done nothing to help even as much call, I'm the one doing all the long distance, but like I said, it was my mistake to buy your bag of problems. The people here will see the truth in this mess, and by the way good luck on the first gen, I hope it doesn't burn down like the last one.

 

I'm not going to post again here so you two lovers can get the last word and satisfy your big egos , but hopefully a mod will see it and close the thread first.

 

Damn Joe, I cant even imagine your anger/frustration!!!

However, let this be a lesson to EVERYONE OUT THERE!!! Buying a used performance motor or trans is very risky business!!! A good rule of thumb is that if the motor aint on a stand and you cant inspect, measure, and put your hands in it dont buy it, you just never can tell what tricks that bag is gonna hold!!! Not to mention that the seller didnt even build this motor so who the Hell really knows what was sitting under that hood.

10 psi of oil pressure under load, that is insanity, the only way I would have bought that car is if the seller cut the price in half. If it aint oiling it is gonna break, plain and simple, something is wrong!!!

Well it is hard to say what the truth is here, It isnt exactly apropriate to call out the seller as a lemon dealer or say that the buyer is the cause BC he gave it some gas and then it broke right away.

Whatever the case I can say with certainty that this fish stinks and someone isnt being honest here, just seems to be a far fetched idea that this is all coincidental.