Please help
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
From: Broken Arrow, OK (Tulsa)
Car: 1990 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350 L31 Vortec
Transmission: 700R4
Please help
Well. I have overlooked this for a while, but now its just getting on my nerves. My buddy witha 87 350 ho 330hp crate is having the same issue.
The car at start up will not want to stay alive. I have to hold the revs up a little and let it warm up for a bit before going anywhere or else is just wants to die. After it warms up it won't die, but in park or netral it will not idle steadily. It will rise and fall in RPM's and never find a happy median. Some say its the chip, but i have had 3 different chips in the car and it is not the chip. I have not yet gotton to it, but my buddy already replaced the IAC motor and adjusted it as well as the TPS. He also replaced his MAF parts. He called SDPC and they said "get this" they find the solution of drilling a small hole in the TB blade. If it doesn't work the first time. drill another small hole in the other blade. This doesn't make sense to me. For now. I have put a piece of rubber to not let the blades close to much. It makes it better in gear for a idle around 650-750, but then in park and neutral its about 1000-1200 rpm at idle. This also effects shifting and braking because when it wants to down shift the rpm's are higher and it when braking there is still partial throttle wanting to go.
Has anyone heard that for this you have to drill a hole? I am sure if that was the soltution it would be more known.
Let me know any suggestions. thanks.
The car at start up will not want to stay alive. I have to hold the revs up a little and let it warm up for a bit before going anywhere or else is just wants to die. After it warms up it won't die, but in park or netral it will not idle steadily. It will rise and fall in RPM's and never find a happy median. Some say its the chip, but i have had 3 different chips in the car and it is not the chip. I have not yet gotton to it, but my buddy already replaced the IAC motor and adjusted it as well as the TPS. He also replaced his MAF parts. He called SDPC and they said "get this" they find the solution of drilling a small hole in the TB blade. If it doesn't work the first time. drill another small hole in the other blade. This doesn't make sense to me. For now. I have put a piece of rubber to not let the blades close to much. It makes it better in gear for a idle around 650-750, but then in park and neutral its about 1000-1200 rpm at idle. This also effects shifting and braking because when it wants to down shift the rpm's are higher and it when braking there is still partial throttle wanting to go.
Has anyone heard that for this you have to drill a hole? I am sure if that was the soltution it would be more known.
Let me know any suggestions. thanks.
Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
From: Clarkston, Washington
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T56
I wouldn't drill a hole, just adjust your minimum idle with the screw above the throttle cable attachment on the TB. It'll have a plug over it if you haven't adjusted it before, so you'll have to pierce the plug with an awl or something sharp and pry it out. Do VERY SMALL adjustments. It's a work-around, but at least this work around won't permanantly damage your throttle blades.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
From: Broken Arrow, OK (Tulsa)
Car: 1990 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350 L31 Vortec
Transmission: 700R4
yea.. since mine wasn't punctured yet.. i put something onto that screw to open the blades more. I am going to puncture it and put it out just a bit.. should i reset the computer each time i think i got it in a good place? So it can relearn? I think it would be best to.
