fuel pump blown and dont wana drop the tank help
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 543
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From: long island
Car: 90 Formula, 02 ws6
Engine: 305 tpi, ls1
Transmission: 700r4, t-56
Axle/Gears: stock posi 2.73, 12 bolt with 4.11s
fuel pump blown and dont wana drop the tank help
i remember there being and artical on how to cut a hole over the fuel pump and getting it out that way but i cant seem to find it?
does anyone have the link to this?
and also what company make a direct replasment high volume pump for my 89
thanks
does anyone have the link to this?
and also what company make a direct replasment high volume pump for my 89
thanks
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 11
From: conway, s.c.
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Hey Jerflash,
Don't get me wrong on this, but have you checked the fuse in the engine compartment near the battery yet, And that looks too nice a bird to cutting holes in it if you don't have to.
Don't get me wrong on this, but have you checked the fuse in the engine compartment near the battery yet, And that looks too nice a bird to cutting holes in it if you don't have to.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 543
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From: long island
Car: 90 Formula, 02 ws6
Engine: 305 tpi, ls1
Transmission: 700r4, t-56
Axle/Gears: stock posi 2.73, 12 bolt with 4.11s
ya trickster the fuse is fine i have had the problem before
and i tried your lil take a hot lead to the g termanail on the a aldl and the pump does not go on
all i here is something clicking on and off which i guess is the fuel pump switch or am i wrong
so i think it is the fuel pump
so what do you think man
thanks or your help
oh and i took a volt meter to the back and put it on the hot lead of the fuel pump conector under the car and it has power
where is the fuel pump relay anyway even though its not bad i would like to change it also
and i tried your lil take a hot lead to the g termanail on the a aldl and the pump does not go on
all i here is something clicking on and off which i guess is the fuel pump switch or am i wrong
so i think it is the fuel pump
so what do you think man
thanks or your help
oh and i took a volt meter to the back and put it on the hot lead of the fuel pump conector under the car and it has power
where is the fuel pump relay anyway even though its not bad i would like to change it also
Last edited by jerflash; May 19, 2004 at 06:41 PM.
TGO Supporter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 11
From: conway, s.c.
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
The clicking you are hearing is the fuel pump relay located under the hood on the driver side firewall. If you put power to pin "G" on the ALDL and ground without the fuel pump running it is definitely shot. Bummer man, I was hoping you wouldn't have to go through all that hassle.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 543
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From: long island
Car: 90 Formula, 02 ws6
Engine: 305 tpi, ls1
Transmission: 700r4, t-56
Axle/Gears: stock posi 2.73, 12 bolt with 4.11s
the battery needs to be grouned out right?
if not what needs to be grouned?
if not what needs to be grouned?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 543
Likes: 0
From: long island
Car: 90 Formula, 02 ws6
Engine: 305 tpi, ls1
Transmission: 700r4, t-56
Axle/Gears: stock posi 2.73, 12 bolt with 4.11s
i just put a power source to the g and heard the clickin
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Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 543
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From: long island
Car: 90 Formula, 02 ws6
Engine: 305 tpi, ls1
Transmission: 700r4, t-56
Axle/Gears: stock posi 2.73, 12 bolt with 4.11s
ya i need a new pump this sucks
i will ahve to pick one up tommarow
my 2002 is broken also thats what really sucks
i will ahve to pick one up tommarow
my 2002 is broken also thats what really sucks
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,262
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From: Renton, WA
Car: 1985 Camaro, 1986 Trans Am
Engine: 5.0L carbed and 5.0L TPI
Transmission: TH700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 and 3.27 posi
I did that when the pump went out on my '85 Z. I REALLY didn't wanna drop the tank because there is alot of work involved and I didn't have a proper facility to work in. I want to go on record as saying that dropping the tank is the proper procedure when replacing the fuel pump. So anyway, I cut a hole through the sheet metal above the tank to access the pump. I used a dremel and cutoff wheel (or several). After the install, I epoxyd the piece I had cut out back into place and replaced the carpet over it. There was actually a little more involved to it, but not much. I would advise using extreme caution if you decide to go this route as there is a danger of f*cking up your car and yourself. For example; I was told to use a brass punch to rotate the retaining collar on the tank so as not to create a spark, but of course I just hit it with a hammer. Not smart. Always work safe around gasoline! We don't wanna come visit you in the burn ward! :nono:
Oh, and good luck, which ever route you take.
Oh, and good luck, which ever route you take.
Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 379
Likes: 0
From: Shelbyville, IN
Car: 92' RS Camaro
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
I've dropped the tank before in a gravel driveway w/ ramps on teh front and jackstands under the rear. Its a PITA, but very doable. Granted now I would just take it to the garage (friends) and put it on the lift. But we're all young and stupid at one point or another. 
I'd say took a good day doing it that way. (And that was w/ no air tools)

I'd say took a good day doing it that way. (And that was w/ no air tools)
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 584
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From: TEXAS
Car: 88GTAnotchbac/91 -Z/66 Chevelle
Engine: All strokers
Transmission: Pro built 700r4's
fuel pump
Ive been down this road a few times.
The easiest way to do this is cutting the material over the center of the gas tank. I got a drill bit and slowly cut two small holes on each corner of the center piece over the tank I believe a 1/4 inch drill bit.
Then get a pair of tin snips and just cut your self two straight lines and then one across joining the two together(wear leather gloves) then pull the sheet metal back towards you as far as you can.
Then get a small tubing cutter and start cutting the lines bend them up a little so you can fit the cutter underneath the lines to rotate the cutters.
You can lightly tap the locking ring back out going counter clock wise with a small screw driver.
Replace the pump and strainer and o ring seal.
I used 3/8 fuel line to patch all of the cuts on the metal lines and double clamped each side.
Push the sheet metal back down a hammer will help, after I got mine forced back into place there was only a crack of space where I had cut it with the snips I just bondo'd it up so that possibly no exhaust fumes come back into the vehicle through the cracks or carpet.
The easiest way to do this is cutting the material over the center of the gas tank. I got a drill bit and slowly cut two small holes on each corner of the center piece over the tank I believe a 1/4 inch drill bit.
Then get a pair of tin snips and just cut your self two straight lines and then one across joining the two together(wear leather gloves) then pull the sheet metal back towards you as far as you can.
Then get a small tubing cutter and start cutting the lines bend them up a little so you can fit the cutter underneath the lines to rotate the cutters.
You can lightly tap the locking ring back out going counter clock wise with a small screw driver.
Replace the pump and strainer and o ring seal.
I used 3/8 fuel line to patch all of the cuts on the metal lines and double clamped each side.
Push the sheet metal back down a hammer will help, after I got mine forced back into place there was only a crack of space where I had cut it with the snips I just bondo'd it up so that possibly no exhaust fumes come back into the vehicle through the cracks or carpet.
Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 379
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From: Shelbyville, IN
Car: 92' RS Camaro
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
I agree it can be done that way. But why hack up the body even though it is a small part? For the time spent cutting the hole you could have the rear axle dropped. Then why your doing that why not put in some new Bushings/LCA's/Springs/Shocks?!?! Hit two birds w/ one stone if ya know what I mean.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 584
Likes: 0
From: TEXAS
Car: 88GTAnotchbac/91 -Z/66 Chevelle
Engine: All strokers
Transmission: Pro built 700r4's
tank drop
Originally posted by Chrome
I agree it can be done that way. But why hack up the body even though it is a small part? For the time spent cutting the hole you could have the rear axle dropped. Then why your doing that why not put in some new Bushings/LCA's/Springs/Shocks?!?! Hit two birds w/ one stone if ya know what I mean.
I agree it can be done that way. But why hack up the body even though it is a small part? For the time spent cutting the hole you could have the rear axle dropped. Then why your doing that why not put in some new Bushings/LCA's/Springs/Shocks?!?! Hit two birds w/ one stone if ya know what I mean.
Doing it from the top is maybe an hour job with no help no special tools and your guaranteed not to spill fuel
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 12,089
Likes: 125
From: SALEM, NH
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: LC9
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.89 9"
Took under 2 minutes to cut the hole (square actually) with the air chisel and a cutting bit.
Then, I gently cut the lines with a sawsall on low speed.
Then I removed the sender, replaced the pump, and put it back in.
Used seam sealer to put the lid back on over the tank..
-- Joe
Then, I gently cut the lines with a sawsall on low speed.
Then I removed the sender, replaced the pump, and put it back in.
Used seam sealer to put the lid back on over the tank..
-- Joe
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