ok guys i dont know excatly how to do it what it does and sutff but i hear people saying they stroked their 350 to 383 what exactly is this...or can my 350 tpi go to 383??

 

When someone say they are turning their 350 into a 383 they are completly tearing down their engine, boreing it 0.030, and adding a new crank with a longer stroke. Besides adding the extra cubic inches it also gives you longer stroke. the longer stroke acts kinda like a breaker bar and gives you more torque. you can buy a stroker kit from any summit or jegs catalog. an all forged kit costs about 1500.

 

Rainman is right on the money there. The main reason why stroker motors are so popular these days is because of the extra torque you get from the longer stroke on the crank. And real street cars and owners want torque. Torque is what helps you win your street light to street light race. Plus you have the added benefit of going to a bigger cubic inch motor, but still retaining your stock block. So there is no need to modify your engine bay for a big block motor. And there is no question that a 383 stroker motor works!!

 

any added horse power??? how much torque are we talking here??


i wont be in the dark for long im taking an engine rebuilding class at college starting mondya

 

ya their will be an increase in hp as well :P

 

A TQ Pig is what it makes.

Your entire power band will be much fatter due to the extra TQ.

The big boost in power comes down low however you will still mnake more on the top as long as you got parts that will flow properly.

Owning a 383 myslef I would never have less

 

Dumb question!!!
How does this effect gas mileage? I checked with our local machine shop today to see what he would charge to freshen-up the bottom end of my block. I believe I got a good price at $275.00. His dad had helped me build it when I went through the tech school about 11 years ago. He mentioned that he could make a 383 for me if I wanted. After leaving I started thinking about it. I'm using the stock base & runners. I'll run a 58 cfm Holley and port plentum to match the new throttle body. Keeping this setup, will it be feasible to go to a 383 or will I have a problem with air flow. I'm also looking at the 23degree TrickFlow heads. Sounds like I need to invest in a PC dyno prog and do some testing.

 

By using the stock base and runners you are wasting your time, efforts, and money.......................................

 

That's what I was thinking. Not enough Air flow for something like that. If I went with a different Base & runner would that help and still on normal driving how does the 383 compare to the 350 as far as mileage goes?

 

haha it came up first day in my engine building class stroking.....now i get it you put a longer stroke on the piston creating more cc's of air and gas increasing hp and torque. how ever does our stroker kits include stuff like shorter connecting rods....i dont want to thrash my valves. or head. or piston because of it stroking too far off.

 

I'm planning on doing this to my TPI motor. I already know that I'll need a new intake manifold, heads, aftermarket plenum and runners, injectors, cam, valvetrain, pistons and rods - inshort, everything except the block. It won't be cheap, but it will be done right. All I hvae to figure out now is what sort of plenum and runners to use.

In terms of fuel economy, you may not notice much of a difference - the engine will have to do less work to move the car at the same speeds you were going before, and if you tune it right, you may get better, if you keep your happy foot under control. Romping it at every light is guaranteed to bring your MPG down.

Since HP is torque at a certain rpm, increasing your torque will do nothing but increase HP, too. But we all want torque, right? Build for torque and HP will fix itself.

 

With a 383 you have 2 different connecting rod options. There is the longer 6" rod, which allows you to have the rotating assembly internally balanced or there is the 5.7" rod, which is the stock rod length and requires you to externally balance the rotating assembly. The biggest difference is cost, the 6" rods means money out of pocket or you can reuse your 5.7" rod or buy a used set for rather cheap. Unless you are going all forged and then you have to buy rods no matter what.

I personally went with a set of 96 LT1 PM rods, because I got them for $10 and they are stronger than the rods used in the 3rd gen.

 

im going all forged..... now i have a place that will internally balance for 100....my question is is one better than the other\

and the longer rods will up compression even more correct??? what about valve clearence how tight are these things i am going to be putting in an extreme race cam