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Old Jun 19, 2004 | 04:04 PM
  #1  
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lets strip down that engine bay

i want some room and weight reduction in that engine bay, i have 88 350tpi with A/C. i have alraedy removed the entire A.I.R. system, pipes, pump, and diverter, and swaped in headers. I hate the clutter and weight, so i wanna strip this bay down while still retaining a daily driver. I have no emission checks to worry about either. so what can go, i have my eye on the evap canister by the air filter, can that go?
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Old Jun 19, 2004 | 09:01 PM
  #2  
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From: Nazareth, PA
Car: 87 GTA
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
I just did exactly what your doing, except I ditched the AC too. The canister you're talking about I kept. I'm not a big fan of gas fumes. I moved it underneath the driver side fender. Just like the vacuum canister on the driver side. Check it out, it's a good place for it.
Attached Thumbnails lets strip down that engine bay-headers1.jpg  
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Old Jun 30, 2004 | 05:15 PM
  #3  
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From: Smithfield, VA
Car: 85 Tojan
Engine: ZZ4
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9", 3.50
that is a beautiful steering pump. where did you get it and the bracket? are you running serpintine with a manual tensioner? Thanks, Josh
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Old Jun 30, 2004 | 09:45 PM
  #4  
87GTA Runner's Avatar
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From: Nazareth, PA
Car: 87 GTA
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
I got the pump from Summit. If you would decide to get it, I could give you a tip to make it work with your stock pressure line. I am running a serp belt, but two seperate ones. Pwr steering to crank and crank to alt and water pump. It is a March setup.
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Old Jun 30, 2004 | 09:49 PM
  #5  
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From: Smithfield, VA
Car: 85 Tojan
Engine: ZZ4
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9", 3.50
how much did the march setup cost?
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Old Jun 30, 2004 | 09:54 PM
  #6  
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From: Nazareth, PA
Car: 87 GTA
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
The whole March setup with all brackets and pulleys and the chrome pump was like $600. Again if you think you might get one, let me know, I have a tip for you on which one to get.
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Old Jun 30, 2004 | 10:00 PM
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From: illinois, home of liberals, D'oh!
Car: 89 Formula L98 power
Engine: '96 subaru, opposed 4banger
Transmission: TH700R4, subaru 4WD
Axle/Gears: 3.27, just works
check this out:
Attached Thumbnails lets strip down that engine bay-iroc-under-hood-small.jpg  
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Old Jun 30, 2004 | 10:02 PM
  #8  
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From: illinois, home of liberals, D'oh!
Car: 89 Formula L98 power
Engine: '96 subaru, opposed 4banger
Transmission: TH700R4, subaru 4WD
Axle/Gears: 3.27, just works
no more a/c or powersteering; and alot less weight!!!
Attached Thumbnails lets strip down that engine bay-iroc-under-hood-small2.jpg  
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Old Jun 30, 2004 | 10:05 PM
  #9  
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From: illinois, home of liberals, D'oh!
Car: 89 Formula L98 power
Engine: '96 subaru, opposed 4banger
Transmission: TH700R4, subaru 4WD
Axle/Gears: 3.27, just works
it used to look like this
Attached Thumbnails lets strip down that engine bay-iroc-before.jpg  
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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 12:17 AM
  #10  
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From: parishville NY upstate
Car: 86 IROC-Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42s/posi/disc
NO MORE POWER STEERING !!! yikes man i want a clean engine bay too but i would never take my power steering out of my car these are heavy *** cars and if u have ever tried to steer on of these down the road after the engine has stalled out at 60mph around a corner it sucks *** i dont know why any one would want to remove the power steering on one of these cars for a meesily like maybe a 5lb reduction... but to each his own i guess lol.
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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 01:56 AM
  #11  
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From: Tucson - MdFormula350 = Post uberWhore
Car: Sexy
Engine: Stock
Transmission: Slipping


This is my daily driver. I removed the A/C and the windshield washer reservoir. Before I added the nitrous and MSD setup that whole side of the car was empty. I left the charcoal canister because it's really not in the way of anything.
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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 02:09 PM
  #12  
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From: illinois, home of liberals, D'oh!
Car: 89 Formula L98 power
Engine: '96 subaru, opposed 4banger
Transmission: TH700R4, subaru 4WD
Axle/Gears: 3.27, just works
Originally posted by z28monster
NO MORE POWER STEERING !!! yikes man i want a clean engine bay too but i would never take my power steering out of my car these are heavy *** cars and if u have ever tried to steer on of these down the road after the engine has stalled out at 60mph around a corner it sucks *** i dont know why any one would want to remove the power steering on one of these cars for a meesily like maybe a 5lb reduction... but to each his own i guess lol.

Here were my first two reasons for putting a manual gear in the car. The power steering pump pulley was bent, and the bearings were howling when I bought the car last december, all the junk yards I went to had ****ty pumps, or the caps were missing so the internals were garbage. And I happened to find a 91-s10 4 cylinder 2wd and took the manual unit out in about 15 minutes and for only 12.50$ wouldn't you do the same?

So it was a direct bolt in, and it was cheap, not to mention the weight loss is alot more than 5 lbs my friend. Theres no more brackets, pump, lines, and the manual gear is shorter and lighter by about 10 lbs, than a power unit. This weight was also taken off the front of the car, which helps the launch.

Steering the car isn't hard, with a manual gear, you simply turn it more, I can parallel park the car just as good as I could before, it simply takes more turns of the wheel, my car weighs in at 3320 lbs with a 1/4 tank. MY car isn't that heavy, I've also removed all the a/c components except for the controls in the car, which also took out about 90 lbs.

Plus the added benefits of not having the extra weight in the car, and no parasitic drag on the motor, helps benefit the mileage, which also explains why I get 24 mpg around town, cruising and to and from work. I only have the one serpentine belt for the water pump and alt.
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Old Jul 2, 2004 | 02:07 PM
  #13  
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From: MA, USA
Car: 83 bird
Engine: 305/383
Transmission: WC T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Why are so many people worried about weight? I mean, if you are balancing the front/rear ratio to be perfect, that's one thing, but randomly removing things to make the car overall lighter makes as much sence as the rycers taking out their back seats to drag race!

From what I've seen and heard, 100 pounds = .1 for your ET. I think I rather have my AC and power steering! (Plus, despite what people have said, the A.I.R. pump doesn't rob HP.)

Sorry for the rant, I understand the want to get the clutter out of there, but if it's just for the lack of weight, save the trouble!
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Old Jul 2, 2004 | 04:14 PM
  #14  
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From: Elgin, IL
Car: 1997 Corvette
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.73 IRS
Is it possible to remove my AC and smog pumps, move the alternator from its bracket to the AC bracket, and use a shorter belt while leaving in the PS pump? What size belt would I need for this?

I took all my AC crap out the other night and am planning on taking out the smog pump stuff when I get the money to buy a AIR-less 3" hi-flo cat. Actually the more I think about it, I'll probably just wait until I get headers to remove the AIR stuff, and to get headers, I'm planning on waiting til I drop in the 355, which won't happen until at least the middle of this winter..so maybe its not a big deal
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Old Jul 6, 2004 | 07:48 PM
  #15  
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From: Clifton, NJ
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T-5... in need of slight rebuild
I think mine looks the cleanest!
Attached Thumbnails lets strip down that engine bay-send.jpg  
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Old Jul 6, 2004 | 10:17 PM
  #16  
Rick King's Avatar
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Car: 1987 TA
Engine: 350 stock/twecked
Transmission: 700r4
Hello
to save weight and have functional pices you can use alluminum(cant spell) heads, block and water pump. the results will be much better than the other options of removing parts exculuding the stock exaust.
just my 2 cents
later
rick king
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Old Jul 6, 2004 | 10:26 PM
  #17  
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Car: 2016 Camaro SS + 1986 Z28
aaron7, I'm with you. You better be pretty hardcore to be taking out parts simply to save weight. If you have a race car only, that's one thing, but on a daily driver?

...you'll grow outta that phase!
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Old Jul 6, 2004 | 10:28 PM
  #18  
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Originally posted by Rick King
Hello
to save weight and have functional pices you can use alluminum(cant spell) heads, block and water pump. the results will be much better than the other options of removing parts exculuding the stock exaust.
just my 2 cents
later
rick king
In theory that is great but alluminum heads cost about a grand (minimum) and require alot of work to install (unless you are building a motor) and have you priced or even tried to find an alluminum block?? Although i do not necessarily agree with removing your ac,ps, or airpump, it costs virtually nothing in time or money.
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Old Jul 7, 2004 | 02:51 AM
  #19  
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From: ready room
Car: NCC-1701-D (docked in AZ)
Engine: impulse drive
Transmission: fusion reactors
Axle/Gears: Rescued from the Borg by my crew
Originally posted by Abubaca
aaron7, I'm with you. You better be pretty hardcore to be taking out parts simply to save weight. If you have a race car only, that's one thing, but on a daily driver?

...you'll grow outta that phase!
My car is both a daily driver and qtr mile car. Every pound counts. I can have a person in the passenger seat of my car who weighs 100-150#'s and notice a difference. Besides the weight making a difference to me, I also like to see my engine and be able to work on it easier. Where I live there is no emissions either. The setup I am running doesnt use it. I think we all have reasons to get rid of weight. I am from the old school. I like a clean engine bay that is clutter free. To each his own...
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Old Jul 7, 2004 | 01:44 PM
  #20  
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From: Elgin, IL
Car: 1997 Corvette
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.73 IRS
So far I've only taken about 20lbs out of my car by removing the A/C, but I still have the compressor in there. My guess is that it weighs a decent bit. It was a lot of work, and I'm still not done (gotta remove compressor, and fix heater box), but I don't mind. Its a free mod and didn't hurt anything since my A/C wasn't working anyways. Now I have more air rushing into my radiator and a nice little gap to get some cool air to my filter. Next step is to remove the AIR pump and AIR system, but That's not going to happen for a while, at least until I get a new AIR-less cat and headers, by which point I may just be better off waiting to do that until I drop the 355 in.

Anyways, the main reason I responded is because I can definitely feel a difference when someone else is in the car as well. The whole car feels different, whether its handling or straight-line driving. The girlfriend doesn't weigh more than 130lbs, yet I can still feel it when she's with me.

The way I look at it, less weight means a quicker car, a better handling car ('specially when the weight comes off the front), a quicker-stopping car, and more gas mileage. Granted, I've only taken 20lbs off so far, but there is more to take off. I'm not going to kill myself trying to remove more weight here and there either, but its nice to know that little things here and there add up, and they're free
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Old Jul 7, 2004 | 02:20 PM
  #21  
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From: illinois, home of liberals, D'oh!
Car: 89 Formula L98 power
Engine: '96 subaru, opposed 4banger
Transmission: TH700R4, subaru 4WD
Axle/Gears: 3.27, just works
When ever you can remove as much excess weight as possible your helping several things, especially if its off the nose of the car. It will help promote better and quicker weight transfer, help mileage, improve et; and when you take the extra accessories off the motor, it also frees up some power through less drag, which in turn also helps mileage. This is partially why I get 24 MPG, I have one belt and it turns the alternator and water pump, and its a serpentine, which has less drag on the pulleys than a v-belt, and has less of a chance of flying off. My car weighs in at 3320 lbs with my amps and subs out, which helps the et also.

One must also recognize that if you have a bunch of **** in your car that you don't use and its in the way, then get rid of it. Like my back seat, its just there, and is hardly ever used, thats another 20 lbs, off the car, which would take my iroc to the weight of 3300 lbs, not bad at all.

The a/c components weigh in at about 90 lbs when they are all removed(compressor, lines, condensor, receiver dryer, a/c/ heater box.

Check this out its an 87 iroc-z with, well you can see what it has, lol, and not to mention its not that cluttered.
Attached Thumbnails lets strip down that engine bay-cs3.jpg  
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Old Jul 7, 2004 | 07:13 PM
  #22  
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From: Severn, MD.
Car: '88 T/A and '90 T/A
Engine: LB9/383
Transmission: T5/700R4

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Old Jul 7, 2004 | 07:15 PM
  #23  
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From: Severn, MD.
Car: '88 T/A and '90 T/A
Engine: LB9/383
Transmission: T5/700R4
That is with no AIR, EGR, or A/C. A lot of cleaning up has been done since those pics though.
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Old Jul 8, 2004 | 12:43 AM
  #24  
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Here's mine, i hated all the clutter under the hood, i just removed the heater control valve and that big ugly hose coming out of the passenger valve cover (i replaced it with a breather) this weekend.

Last edited by MNformula350; Jul 15, 2004 at 02:44 AM.
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Old Jul 8, 2004 | 08:38 AM
  #25  
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by cronsformula350
When ever you can remove as much excess weight as possible your helping several things, especially if its off the nose of the car......
**picture of motor with large roots blower on it**






lmao, i donno why, but that struck me as funny... you have a large heavy blower on the nose, and you're talking about weight loss.... lol
i bet theres more nose weight there then stock with the blower on there.
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Old Jul 8, 2004 | 11:28 AM
  #26  
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From: Elgin, IL
Car: 1997 Corvette
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.73 IRS
Yeah, but that's to add power. If all of the stuff that was removed to remove weight did nothing for performance (or even *COULD* hurt it), then it still ended up helping him. The front of his car is probably somewhat close to stock, but that's a lot lighter than it'd be if he had the blower and everything else that was on there.
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Old Jul 8, 2004 | 02:10 PM
  #27  
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From: illinois, home of liberals, D'oh!
Car: 89 Formula L98 power
Engine: '96 subaru, opposed 4banger
Transmission: TH700R4, subaru 4WD
Axle/Gears: 3.27, just works
spoken like a true prodigy, the roots blower with everything weighs in at about 100 lbs, attached to the motor. With no a/c, heating, power steering, a manual steering gear, and no frills, the weight is still less than factory. That car weighs in at 3175, and the added power is well worth the added weight.
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Old Jul 8, 2004 | 04:49 PM
  #28  
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From: Severn, MD.
Car: '88 T/A and '90 T/A
Engine: LB9/383
Transmission: T5/700R4
Originally posted by Dave84Bird
Here's mine, i hated all the clutter under the hood, i just removed the heater control valve and that big ugly hose coming out of the passenger valve cover (i replaced it with a breather) this weekend.
replacing the PCV valves with breathers is always a bad ideal. You NEED to ventilate the crankcase.
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Old Jul 8, 2004 | 10:02 PM
  #29  
irocing's Avatar
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From: NE Ohio
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: stealth ram injected ZZ4 350
Transmission: 700R4 w/3200 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Figured that I would put a pic up also, this is my 87 Z engine bay, be safe everyone!!!!!
Attached Thumbnails lets strip down that engine bay-tpi3.jpg  
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Old Jul 8, 2004 | 10:03 PM
  #30  
irocing's Avatar
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From: NE Ohio
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: stealth ram injected ZZ4 350
Transmission: 700R4 w/3200 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.73
another pic
Attached Thumbnails lets strip down that engine bay-tpi2.jpg  
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Old Jul 8, 2004 | 10:29 PM
  #31  
Rick King's Avatar
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Car: 1987 TA
Engine: 350 stock/twecked
Transmission: 700r4


HAY,
I just changed out the heads on my 87 TA and discovered that is is not that hard. yes I removed the airpump and will not put it back in. I also removed the stock exaust, the air conditioning, and altinator the only thing going back in is the altinator. It was not hard att all I had all kinds of room, and yes I know Allumium (cant spell) heads are expensive. I left in the plastic box on the firewell. It took about 1 hour to install the heads in the car with all that stuff out. Removal of everything took about 3 hours it is not hard just nut, bolts, wires, and pipes.

One more kick but thing someone put in a 350 long block that is pretty fresh -- the cross hatchings are still on the wall of the cylinder--what luck a 305 car with a 350!!!!!!!!!!

later

and
GB

rick king
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Old Jul 8, 2004 | 10:34 PM
  #32  
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From: check under the car
Car: White 25th Anniversary RS
Engine: lt1
Transmission: t56
Axle/Gears: 4:10
(Plus, despite what people have said, the A.I.R. pump doesn't rob HP.)
air pump or air conditioning pump??. because the smog pump takes a few hp off your motor just to turn it ecspeicialy when they get older and are ready to seize>(like my old 85 was) not only that it puts colder air into the exhaust manifolds cooling the temperature of the exhaust thus slowing down the exhaust excaping from the engine and exhaust. hotter exhaust flows faster as we all know. just my .02$

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Old Jul 9, 2004 | 03:13 PM
  #33  
cronsformula350's Avatar
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From: illinois, home of liberals, D'oh!
Car: 89 Formula L98 power
Engine: '96 subaru, opposed 4banger
Transmission: TH700R4, subaru 4WD
Axle/Gears: 3.27, just works
now all you need is a nice set of headers.
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