Hey all, it's been a while but I'm getting back into all of my thirdgen stuff, and I want to get a baseline of my car before I proceed with any real mods.

(car is basically stock, cat-back and intake only)

Anything I should do before going to use the local shop's dynometer? Anything I SHOULDN'T (lol) do?

I'll probably fool with the AFPR while at the session, but anything else I should be checking?

Thanks, and it's great to be back!

-Elliott

(car is not a mint1982cfi anymore, TPI if it matters :-)

 

I'll get the ball rolling. I would make sure all the fluid levels are up to snuff. When was the last time you had and engine oil change? Maybe change the air filter.

 

I happen to have a dyno at work, and we let people use it at night and weekends, so here's what I have to say:

1) Get under the car and find some points to put some hooks through that'll strap the car down. Make sure they aren't blocked by exhaust, or bodywork.

2) Fluids, belts, tire pressures, etc... must be good.

3) Don't go if you know you have an ignition problem, or some transmission problem, or some other junk that'll waste your time. Have as many "problems" tuned out before you go.

4) HAVE A PLAN on what you want to do, it's precious.

5) DON'T LOOK AT the peak number only, it won't tell you anything. Don't look at the number and think it's too high or too low. All dynos are different, especially chassis dynos. They are tuning devices, not very accurate at getting official numbers.

6) Be EARLY, by at least 10 minutes.

7) Know your car. Gear ratios in all gears, and final drive. Top speed in direct (3rd on an auto, 4th on manual usually).

8) If on a Mustang Dyno, make sure your car isn't slammed to the ground. Make sure your exhaust doesn't hang too low.

9) When you get there, don't set your parking brake, or tell the operator if you use it. Ask me how I know.

10) Sit in the car if you are allowed. Help tell the operator of any quirks of driving it, and make sure YOU watch the tach. Don't be annoying, but it's always better if you're paying attention and get some better info than relying on the operators word. He's concentrating on finishing the test, not the tach.

11) If your crap blows up, it's YOUR fault. You will have to sign a waiver.

12) Ask to watch another setup, test, and take down to get an idea of what's going on.

13) BE NICE. Cooperative people always get an extra pull or two.

GOOD LUCK!!!!
Let us know how it goes.

 

Thank you very much RednGold86Z! I was hoping for an answer, but you went above and beyond!!

>>4) HAVE A PLAN on what you want to do, it's precious.

I plan to get a baseline in its current state, then adjust the AFPR to get the perfect PSI ( I've got the tool and the pressure gauge ready to go). From there I will have a true baseline for any mods in the future.

>>8) If on a Mustang Dyno, make sure your car isn't slammed to >>the ground. Make sure your exhaust doesn't hang too low.

It _IS_ a Mustange Dyno (how did you know?) so thanks for the heads up.

=2 Quick Questions:

>>7) Know your car. Gear ratios in all gears, and final drive. Top >>speed in direct (3rd on an auto, 4th on manual usually).

From working on these in the past I know the ratio's by heart - now is this imporant because the pull must be made in a certain gear? I have the same 700R4 as your car.

>>5) DON'T LOOK AT the peak number only, it won't tell you >>anything. Don't look at the number and think it's too high or >>too low. All dynos are different, especially chassis dynos. They >>are tuning devices, not very accurate at getting official numbers.

I think I know this one, but I am looking at the entire CURVE, not just the end result, correct? i.e. where the HP + TQ peaks are.

Once again, it is VERY refreshing to have such a pleasant detailed answer. In my current line of work no one is willing to really help anyone else, and its RARE to get anything but the negatives in a situation - versus the positives.

-Elliott

 

I forgot to add:

The Car is up to speed:

Ignition system excellent
Cooling " "
Recently cleaned K&N Filter
Oil changed approx 100 miles ago
Transmission fluid changed max 8k miles ago.
Transmission is in perf. condition.

Thanks again!

 

Sounds like you've got the bases covered. I'm assuming that you're car is the CFI as in your screen name so I don't know what budget mods work well for it. But don't forget about checking the base timing, and the TPS to make sure they're within spec. You may also want to make sure you're TV cable is adjusted properly before you go. Also be sure to fill up with the same brand/grade of fuel that you normally use.

I think that the numbers aren't really gonna matter other than getting a baseline on the car and for what you plan on doing in terms of tuning (i.e. fuel pressure, base timing, setting the throttle position sensor, or other budget mods).

Once you get the baseline and then preferrably results from the basic tuning or budget mods you want to do, you can compare that with later pulls after you've started making mods. That's when you'll really want look at the numbers. Like mentioned before.....you're looking for gains throughout your useful rpm range, not just peak.
Good luck, and let us know how it goes.