My 305 5.0 V8 TPI
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Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: Burnaby, BC , Canada
Car: 1987 Trans Am
Engine: 305 5.0 L v8
Transmission: 5spd manual
My 305 5.0 V8 TPI
Hi everyone this is my first post here im new..
Just thought id say hi and I wanna ask for some advice i just got this TA not too long ago, it came with dual 3' flowmasters(sounds great) and a K&N filtercharger the engines got 180 K on it and i wanna know if there are any good parts i can add to this engine type to give me a noticable performance boost without having to spend thousands more on it.
Just any advice would be appreciated, also my rear end makes a funny howling sorta noise when i come outa turns but makes no noise goin in a straight line any ideas as to what that may be? Thx in advance.
Just thought id say hi and I wanna ask for some advice i just got this TA not too long ago, it came with dual 3' flowmasters(sounds great) and a K&N filtercharger the engines got 180 K on it and i wanna know if there are any good parts i can add to this engine type to give me a noticable performance boost without having to spend thousands more on it.
Just any advice would be appreciated, also my rear end makes a funny howling sorta noise when i come outa turns but makes no noise goin in a straight line any ideas as to what that may be? Thx in advance.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 584
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From: TEXAS
Car: 88GTAnotchbac/91 -Z/66 Chevelle
Engine: All strokers
Transmission: Pro built 700r4's
Welcome aboard Johnny bravo.
You have a vast library of all types of answers to all types of questions using your search feature, give a try or just post and ask away.
I would get a stock short block with some decent after market heads from summit or jegs (direct bolt ons)and fly.
About the rear end issue I have had the same issue and tried several different brands of differential fluid to no evail. So I went to the dealer and used GM's diff. fluid with the additive that comes with it and all the chatter stopped immediatly.
You have a vast library of all types of answers to all types of questions using your search feature, give a try or just post and ask away.
I would get a stock short block with some decent after market heads from summit or jegs (direct bolt ons)and fly.
About the rear end issue I have had the same issue and tried several different brands of differential fluid to no evail. So I went to the dealer and used GM's diff. fluid with the additive that comes with it and all the chatter stopped immediatly.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: Burnaby, BC , Canada
Car: 1987 Trans Am
Engine: 305 5.0 L v8
Transmission: 5spd manual
Thx for the advice on the rear end rob, i think im gonna give that a try ive been hearing about how the positrack has its chatter but was puzzled as to what could cause it i was hoping that it might just be a fluid problem as youve pointed out, this outa save me alot of time and cash.
So neither of u guys would actually recommend keepin this same old block with just some new parts? it still has alot of kick left in it i was just wonderin if theres somethin i can give it down the raod that will make it even better than it already is.
So neither of u guys would actually recommend keepin this same old block with just some new parts? it still has alot of kick left in it i was just wonderin if theres somethin i can give it down the raod that will make it even better than it already is.
If you are confident in the shortblock you have now, I'd recommend doing modifications that can be swapped over to a 350 or 400 sometime later down the road.
Things like a free flowing air intake,port/polish the intake manifold, headers, exhaust, and then once you start to have traction issues start modifying the rear suspension. Subframe connectors are also recommended, they will keep your unibody from tweaking and flexing.
Things like a free flowing air intake,port/polish the intake manifold, headers, exhaust, and then once you start to have traction issues start modifying the rear suspension. Subframe connectors are also recommended, they will keep your unibody from tweaking and flexing.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: Burnaby, BC , Canada
Car: 1987 Trans Am
Engine: 305 5.0 L v8
Transmission: 5spd manual
hey,
hi everyone i just found a new problem with my car, i opened up the trunk / hatch today and when i was about to shut the trunk the think didnt lock properly, that little motor that normally pulls down the hatch to securely lock it went down without the hatch itself. Now i cant get it back up to the position where it latch and close up tightly instead the hatch is left wide open, i tried putting in the key and turning it but for some reason the motor just wont come up to the "open" position.
any suggestions?
any suggestions?
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Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 584
Likes: 0
From: TEXAS
Car: 88GTAnotchbac/91 -Z/66 Chevelle
Engine: All strokers
Transmission: Pro built 700r4's
Theres a small black tab that is pressed before the latch is closed that activates the hatch motor to open or close the hatch.
I have had so many problems with mine in the past that I decided to ditch the motor. I scribed an outline mark with a scribe where the motor would pull down the hatch when bottomed out in the down position then permantely drilled through the brackets that the motor slides between and its done now you can just slam the sooshshhhh out of it with out worrying about the integrity of the cheasy plastic bracket failing.
Get er Done !
I have had so many problems with mine in the past that I decided to ditch the motor. I scribed an outline mark with a scribe where the motor would pull down the hatch when bottomed out in the down position then permantely drilled through the brackets that the motor slides between and its done now you can just slam the sooshshhhh out of it with out worrying about the integrity of the cheasy plastic bracket failing.
Get er Done !
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