Hey what's up guyz, I just wanted to get some info before I purchased the cam.
Basically its a stock l98 TPI 350 in my '89 Iroc that I bought a week ago($3350 62,000 miles when bought and new tranny)
There's no bolt-ons or anything. I mean bone stock.
The cam that I was interested in was the LPE 219 camshaft with specs as follows:350 – 383 CID SBC Engine with SuperRam Plenum Runner Cam # 74219
219/219 duration @ .050 .560"/.560" with 1.6 rocker
Now I know that TPIS says that stock heads can handle up to .490 lift and this cam makes .525 with stock rockers. What do you guyz suggest? And does anyone have a cam 4sale?

 

You need some different springs . Also the screw in studs I would think are a must for that kind of lift . Pushrod holes elongated , that kinda stuff. can you tune the prom yourself ? I think you will need it after them mods

 

no I cant tune the prom myself. I really dont want to do anything to the heads until I get deep into the motor, honestly I'm just looking for a little more umph with my stock setup. What cam do you suggest?

 

Something with less lift. Your stock setup will not handle that . Pushrods will probably rub too .


You need to find an end result you would be happy with . Like is it a certain E.T you are after. Or is there stuff like good idle quality that is important . Or do you have a HP goal . Stuff like that needs to be addressed before a good recomendation can be given . I am happy with the little ZZ4 I am running so far.

 

well I am not worried about et until I stroke my engine. I just want more power for the street, u know help defeat those imports.

 

Your best bet would be to call up compcams directly and tell them . They have sweet engine calcs they do to pik you a good cam . They would probably recomend a 264HR maybe .

Nothing from the LPE series will work without different springs .....and thats what compcams may say aswell. SOOOOoo you will be limited without wanting to swap the springs out

 

What about using 1.6 RR on the stock cam? It would give it a little oomph and a fairly easy install.

 

The stock cam is only like 206/207 duration@.50 with a 117 lobe seperation angle. I think I can get by with at least a 214 on both sides w/a 112 lobe. I don't know. What effect would installing 1.6rr's on the stock cam on the engine? What's all neccessary in the install?

 

With the stock heads I would look for a dual pattern versus the single pattern 219 cam. Like you stated lift will be a problem with the stock heads. I agree with the above and would call Comp Cams for their recomendation.

 

Exactly what he said. Stock heads need a split-pattern cam (meaning intake and exhaust have different durations). I'd recommend at least a 10* difference with stock heads. I have a CompCams XR266HR for sale, but it has a bit too much lift (.500/.510) for your stock heads.

I have to say though, you're spending money in the wrong area first. Your first step should be headers and a full tune-up. Then go through your suspension (especially rear) and replace all worn bushings and maybe buy a few replacement hard parts. Make sure you use your advantage (low-end torque) to its fullest by putting that power to the ground and launching hard.

Any cam you put in that motor will still be choked off by the stock exhaust manifolds.

 

I'd go 215/220 @ .050, with a 112 lsa on that engine. That will give you a nice increase in power without losing that precious low end torque

 

so build up that chassis first then start digging in the engine?

 

That is a great cam. I have heard of people using that cam with the stock springs and rockers. I use it with comp cams 987 springs- I think they were $100. It goes right through NJ emisions and didn't need a chip to run good. You shouldn't either, you being a MAF motor right? A later '90-'92 S/D would need a chip.

Incidently I am using the same cam in my next motor- 383 with stealth ram-Mike

 

Yeah I'm MAF
I think I found one Gen3camaro88 has a SLP cam. I'm waiting on the specs but will post them once I get em.

 

I was going to buy the slp cam. They discontinued them right around the time I started looking at cams. Tried to hunt one down on Ebay but ended up just getting the 219 cam. SLP made two cams-Make sure you are getting the bigger one.

 

There is no way I would EVER trust a cam with that much lift on stock springs. Not only that, but there is no chance of a cam with that much lift working on stock heads. The heads need the valve guide bosses machined down to handle that kind of lift. Screw-in studs wouldn't be a bad idea either.

Stock heads also need a split-pattern cam. Single pattern won't give you the best performance because of how poorly the stock heads flow on the exhaust side of things.

I still maintain the idea that you will benefit more from headers and full exhaust than you would from a cam at this point. You should also make sure your car has a complete tuneup with all filters/fluids replaced from antifreeze to rearend fluid to fuel filter. Make sure its running at its best before you start modifying it.

Reason I mentioned to make sure to replace all worn out parts in the rear is because there is no sense in having a strong motor if you can't put it to the ground and use it without spinning and wheel-hopping off the line.

 

here's the cam specs:
p/n 51002 0.050 duration 206/214 1.5 lift (stock rockers) .470/.490 1.6 lift (after market rockers) .501/.522 separation 112deg

88-89 stock 350 cam p/n 10066049 0.050 duration 207/213 1.5 lift (stock rockers. 415/.430 1.6 lift (after market rockers) .443/.459 separation 117deg

What you guyz think?
I think it should work! Also can I just take out my current cam and install this w/o having to buy any other item?
(please facts only,not what you did or what you think, FACTS)

 

Go ahead and change it but you won't gain any power, and you'll ruin your lifters and/or pushrods for the exhaust valves.

 

Skip the cam. Get a decent set of 1.6RR's, and a full exhaust. All of that will go right onto a stroker later (since you stated that's where you were going with the car), and in the mean time will make meaningful power.

 

Full bolt-on, stock-internals (heads, cam, rotating assembly) L98 cars can run very low 13s as it is.

Wait until you do a headswap to do a cam because as it is right now you'll need new valvesprings and to get the heads modified to handle the extra lift.

 

What's a good way to change the rear right two spark plugs on my TPI engine also? I cant reach them from up top.

 

Get the plugs from under the car.

 

Right on Cuzz! Gotcha