I am looking for a new cam and I am not sure which on to get. The engine is a stock 305 tpi w/ flat tappet hydraulic lifters, afpr, and a 2400 stall converster. I am looking at summits line of cams, the cam has to work with the stock ecm and it will be a daily driver. If anyone has a suggestion please let me know.

Also will I need to get shorter pushrods depending on the cam?

Thanks

 

Since you have a nice torque converter, I'd recommend 210-214 degrees @.050" of intake duration for a mild daily driver, maybe 218 but gets to the border of what I'd recommend for stock computer. Get a dual pattern cam, i.e. the exhaust duration is longer than the intake, for stock heads and manifolds. Get 112 degree lobe separation or more for drivability with the stock ecu. Lift - .450" ish for a flat tappet hydraulic. Get new springs, and timing chain. Get headers too, hehe. With a flat tappet, I'd probably just buy one of those all inclusive kits. Set the AFPR to stock, the MAF should take care of the fueling with no (signifigant) problems on a 305. Pushrods, uh, not sure. Stock length should be fine. Get some better rocker arms while you're shopping - long slot might be necessary, full roller would be a home run.

 

The car has headers, what do you mean long slot rockers? Also would this cam work?

Brand: Summit
Product Line: Summit Camshafts
Cam Style: Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: 2,000-4,500 RPM
Intake Duration 050 inch Lift: 214
Exhaust Duration 050 inch Lift: 224
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 214 int./224 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 272
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 282
Advertised Duration: 272 int./282 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.442
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.465
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.442 int./0.465 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 112
Intake Valve Lash (in): 0.000
Exhaust Valve Lash (in): 0.000
Computer Controlled: No
Quantity: Sold individually.

Thanks for the help.

 

I'm planning to run a similar roller cam - the Crane 2032 (already have it, but I'm in China). It recommends an AFPR, but I'm going to do a lot more than a cam (injectors, intake, heads, 1.6rr, etc.. have those too), and I have a dyno and chip burning equipment (and calibrate EFI for a living, so...).

Since you have a better converter, you might be quite fine with that cam. Once you get it installed, broke in, and get some time to make sure everything is working right, you should take it to a dyno and check the A/F at higher RPMs. Should be no problem, but I'm not sure. May need to up the pressure, and may want to start the first dyno pull with higher pressure and work down as necessary. One hour, heck - 3 pulls, is money well invested in peace of mind.

If you have to raise the pressure too much, you'll want to save some money for the chip burning equipment or an emulator like the Ostrich, etc... Depends on your cold engine drivability requirements.

Enjoy