I have a 1989 camaro with the 350 auto. Its stock except for the ram air I have on it. I took it to the track and ran a 14.8 flat. is there anything that I can do to get into the 13'2 without taking apart the engine?? Input would greatly be appreciated.

 

cold air induction,k&n's, underdrive pulleys, headers, cat back exhaust, better catalytic converters, air foil, chip, shift kit, vette jumbo servo for tranny, supercharger-turbo-NOS whichever one floats your boat, computer tuned, gears, suspension improvements (LCA's, subframe connectors, sway bar,etc.) drag tires. there lots of bolt ons to do before going internal on your engine.

 

what type of shift kit would be a good choice and how much do they run?

 

b&m has one for the 700 that is really good its two kits in one, one for better shifts for everyday driving and one for the performance side to make it shift really good and firm. they also extend the life of your tranny (so they say). look on ebay, some on there are around $30 - $50

 

are they easy to install??

 

depends on how mechanically inclined you are. but tranny shops dont charge much to do them. i had a friend get his installed for around $30.

 

I think I can help. When my 89 was stock it ran 14.8 at 93. Here is a list of mods of what it took to get a 13.5 at 99. There is a chance that if everything is perfect, conditions,1/2 tank of gas,good tires, ect I could get 13.2, but its unlikely.

FlowMaster Cat-Back w/high flow cats from Cat-Co
EdelBrock TES Headers
EdelBrock High Flow TPI Intake Manifold
EdelBrock High Flow Intake Runners
EdelBrock Air Foil In Throttle Body
Throttle Body Bypass
TPI Intake Manifold and Runners Ported by TPIS
TPI Plenum Ported
TPIS Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator
TPIS- ECM Reprogrammable Chip
Gutted Air Box
K&N High Flow Air Filter
ACSD 82-92 Camaro IROC TurboHood
HyperTech Chip Stage One
HyperTech 160 Degree Thermostat
Re-mapped Injectors
MSN Ignition, Blaster Coil
Accel High Performance Rotor,Wires
Beefed up Alternator
Mass Air Flow Sensor [cut out fins]
ARP Engine Fastener Kit
GM Special Order Crome Valve Covers
Synthetic Motor Oil
3.42 Rear End
245/50/16 Series Tires w/Iroc-Z Rims
Radials

 

Few pics

 

......

 

so wait did u have the Tpi intake runners and intake manifold ported or did u have edlebrock because they are both listed there???

 

I have an Edelbrock intake manifold, and Edelbrock runners. I sent them both out to TPIS and had them ported

 

he prolly bought the edelbrock base and had tpis port the base and plenum together.

 

ahhhh i got it. if you dont mind me asking....how much did all that together run you??

 

also cutting out the fins and taking out the screen in the MAF make noticable power??

 

Most of the work was already done when I bought the car. The "free mods" dont really make a noticeable difference 3-5hp. For your car I would first get a good cat-back system and a set of headers, those alone should free up 15-20 hp.

 

i cut my screen on my MAF and didnt really do anything..... so i would say dont do it.


13.2 can be reached with full bolt on L98 with slicks and good converter/gears. u need to trap around 103-104mph

if you want 13.2's on street tires, then you need a cam in addition to these mods mentioned

as 89Irocz and 5.7tpiroc said

full bolt ons, from headers, to intake manifold/runners or complete differenty intake setup altogether like superram/hsr/miniram.
try and get some 1.6 ratio rockers if you can. adjustable fuel pressure regulator. you have ram air intake so thats good.

tranny shift kit and torque converter..i'd go 2600-2800stall. i have 2800 and i love it. my 89 traps 100.8 on a good day with just exhaust and headers and converter. thats good for 13.8's on street tires. probly mid lower 13's on slicks with full stalled launch. gears i would use 3.45's but 9 bolts are rare and u probly have 3.27's. 3.27's are minimum i'd use.

suspension upgrades... if you really want 13.2's and dont mind not being able to handle, then set it up for drag racing as much as u can. front sway bar delete, 50/50 shocks rear i think and like 90/10's up front. or whatever they are... i have adjustable tokico's and i set the front soft as i can, and rear moderately stiff.
LCA's and torque arm

 

If you are serious about racing Id ditch that TPI setup. Dont get me wrong for the street it gets the job done, but at the track there are many superior intakes. You could pull off a 13.2 though with just tpi bolt ons. You more than likely have the 2.77 gears,unless you have the G92 package which contains true dual exhaust, and 3.27's, but you said you ran a 14.8 which is typical for an 89 with 2.77's. The G92 cars usually run 14.4's.

 

G92 has dual cats, not true dual exhaust...

but a 2.77 car should do better than 14.8. unless at some altitude or high heat, i think a 2.77 car should cut 14.5's easy on a good launch.

mine went 13.89 with headers/exhaust and 2800stall on adjustable shocks and street tires. i'd bet it would have done 14.5 stock

 

what would be a good launch?? how many seconds in the 60 foot?

 

i did run the 14.8 in the middle of June in florida. so it was pretty hot even if it was night time.

 

So only the IROC's with dual cats come with the 3.27 gears??

 

No, 87 model 350's had 3.27's. For 89 the only way to get 3.27's was with the G92 package. Most people say GM downgraded the gears beacuse the performance of the Iroc was creeping into Corvette territory. A 2.77 car CAN run 14.5's, but it is more likely to run higher 14's.

 

oh man!

 

2.77 gears are not as bad as they sound. The 350 tpi setup makes so much torque that it makes up for the high gearing. The TPI powerband likes to be geared around 3.23-3.42, but 2.77s are not all bad.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Orr89RocZ
[B]G92 has dual cats, not true dual exhaust...

An H pipe or an X pipe are both considered to be true exhaust are they not?

 

How can i get 3.23 - 3.42 gears? are they expensive to get and install? And what about gas milage with them? When im doing 60 im between 15oo - 2000 rpms.....

 

well yeah a h pipe and x pipe are installed on true dual exhausts

but the 89 G92 cars have a y pipe with 2 cats on it taht converts into 1 pipe all the way back. not true dual


a good 60 time i think is in the 1.8's. on street tires this is very possible. i'm about 1.88 on my best so far but probly got abit more in it. on slicks and 2800 stall, i think u could get high 1.7's which is really good


89's had a 9 bolt rear end. the only ratios available are 2.77 , 3.27's, and 3.45's. 3.70s are made in the aftermarket.

3.45's are hard to find... very rare. only G92 five speed 305 cars got them and those are hard to find.
3.27's are fairly common. they can be had. finding a 3 series carrier for those 3.27 on up gears is the hard part. some are around, but not always good condition. i bought mine used for 70 bucks and got about 7-8 passes on it at the strip and roughly 1000 miles on it or so and its already worn out. so i'm swappin in a 4th gen 10bolt rear end with 3.42's. should be kick ***.

if you have 2.77's ur gonna need a 3.27 ring and pinion and the carrier for them. also need a gear install kit which you can get from reider racing for 100-120 bucks. also need speedo gears for your tranny to keep speedometer working. i used a 15/39 combo and it works great. those are 17 bucks. and by next spring, i should have my 9 bolt for sell... the ring and pinion, the brakes all that.... also my speedo gears probly. i gotta see

 

With the 2.77 gears at 60 the rmps were at 1650. With the 3.42 gears they are around 1850 at 60 mph. Gas Miliage is not a big difference. Yes they are pretty expensive beaucse the 89's got a 9-bolt.


Orr89RocZ-What did your total cost come to parts/labor?

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Orr89RocZ
[B]well yeah a h pipe and x pipe are installed on true dual exhausts

but the 89 G92 cars have a y pipe with 2 cats on it taht converts into 1 pipe all the way back. not true dual

I didnt know u could have two cats on a Y pipe. Kind of defeats the purpose of having better performance. Everyone knows Y-pipes are inferior to an X or H.

 

for my swap?

17 bucks for the speedo gears
about 140 i think for the posi with ring gear

pinion gear that came with it was chipped
so i bought another ring and pinion for 52 bucks
120 for the install kit with bearings and stuff... Reider racing
bout 180 or so for the labor install i think but that included welding of my LCA brackets. LOL i'm not really sure of the labor but it wasnt bad. my tranny guy is cool

total was bout 479 very expensive overall, i should have just bought a 4th gen rear to begin with

 

i should have just bought a 4th gen rear to begin with [/B][/QUOTE]



Do 4th gens use a 9 or a 10 bolt. I would think 10 bolt. If they use a 9-bolt you could just drop the 3.42's right in.

 

its a 10 bolt.... i wish it was similar

i also didnt expect my rear to last as short as it did. was hoping to get some life outta that posi... oh well.. it might need shimmed, i have to check the torque on it

 

Not all 89's got the 9 bolt rear, both my 89 formulas had 10 bolt rears w/ drum brakes. 1 had a TBI the other a 5.0 tpi.
Take a peek under your car to confirm which rear you have.

 

he has a L98 89 irocz.. they got the 9 bolt...

i dont believe there was any other rear available for the high end Irocz models

 

is that an oil filter in the lower right of the pic?

 

Ya it was like that when I bought the car. Kind of a strange place for an oil filter. Real easy to get at though.

 

wow i was looking at the picture and that IS a weird place for it....how was it done?

 

okay this is great b/c im hopefully gettin a 89 IROC 5.7 auto on ebay within a few days 4 my first car and i also would like to know some easy cheap mods 4 it

 

the one im lookin at is a 9 bolt 3:27 gears are those gears to slow to run on or should i get some 373 or 355 or is there even a difference

 

theres a big difference from 3.27's to 3.73's

but for TPI, 3.73's are too big.... 3.27's are just about perfect, maybe even 3.45s are absolutely best, although rare.

i'd say keep the 3.27's. i like mine so far, really opened the car up. i'm going 10 bolt rear sometime soon with 3.42's. that should run great

you can do alot to a good condition G92 L98 iroc. its gonna be quite quick with bolt ons. i'd do 2800 stall converter, headers and catback exhaust, and gut your stock Air intake boxes. leave the MAF screens in for now. after that u can go TPI bolt ons or intake swap wiht AFPR.

should see mid 13's easy, especially on radials you could see mid lower 13's

 

It may not be worth the money to go from 3.27's to 3.42's. Something to think about. Is it worth .1 or .2 at the track.

 

well i dont care about the gear ratio difference..i'm not doin it for that.
my 9 bolt posi is worn and it costs less to put in a 4th gen rear than finding another used posi. this way i can get good parts whenever i want for the 10 bolt. forget finding stuff for the 9 bolt. i already spent 470 dollars or so on swappin in this used posi that lasted about 1000 miles. i could have had a 10 bolt 4th gen rear and some money to do more.

and i plan on running 4th gen wheels and then eventually aftermarket wheels that fit 4th gen specs because those are by far more popular. u can find more rims to fit 4th gens than 3rd's

 

well im not real sure its 3:27 gears how do i know 4 sure....he said its a posi...could it have the 2:77 gears?

 

oh, I must have missed the part about the 9-bolt being worn.

 

they all are posi...

check the rear differential cover... there is a tag on there that says what gears it has.

or, check in the consule box/ compartment where the RPO codes are. if its got a code for G92 then it has the 3.27 and performance package i do believe.

there might be another code or so, but i'm not sure of what it is. the RPO decoder on this site is down too so i cant check

 

Start w/ subframes, torque arm, control arms and relocates. Then go good exhaust(headers and all). - I'm cutting 1.66-1.70 60ft's w/ nitto's on 17" wheels, with a 5 speed.
- Also, a good firm shift is a must. Personally I don't believe in the B&M shift kits. I like the Superior shift improver kit. It plus the yellow/brown accumulator springs. PATC has this stuff for around $50. Now, instead of just shimming the pump and your stock accumulator springs(which are known to break w/o the extra tension) you've shimmed up your whole trans. Now the valve body responds better, the pump works better, and your shifts are firm, and your clutches slip less. You'll see better up and down shifts, as wells as less trans slippage/better over-all performance. Far better product, and the proper way to upgrade a 700R4.

 

I've got an 87 350TPI in my 91 Camaro, I put the car on a diet, changed the LCA's and pan hard rod, did the cheap headman headers and 2 1/2in exhaust ending at the rear axle, ported the plenum myself and installed an MSD box (also have nitro but that's another story). I hit a 14.00 on a crap track with a 2.00 60 foot. This is with a 3.27 9 bolt and stock converter. If you have 2.77's and a 9 bolt I recommend you leave it and get a higher stall. The free mods that you can find on a Google search will seriously improve your car. Keep in mind these cars were made at the dawn of technology that was fighting against the strict emmisions standards so from the factory they're not exactly tuned for best performance, they're tuned for the best compromise.

 

Will a 4th generation rear end fit directly into a 3rd generation camaro, if so what are the different ratios?

 

They'll fit directly in, but they're a little wider (this is a plus because you can then use 4th gen wheels). Most manual cars came with 3.42 and by most I mean every one I've ever heard of. The auto cars come with either 2.73 or 3.23. You can read the tag on the rear, or run the RPO codes to find out what rear is in the car.

 

will the 4th gen manual rear end fit on the 3rd gen camaro? or do i have to get a automatic 4th gen rear end plus if i get a 4th gen rear end is there anything else i have to change or convert to put it on? Do i have to have 4th gen wheels or can i keep my iroc rims? Im sorry about all the questions im just really interest in changing the rear end in my car.