Smog Pump Woes
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Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 88
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From: Alabama
Car: 91 rs
Engine: 5.7 350 :))
Transmission: 700 r4
Axle/Gears: 1996 - 3.42
Smog Pump Woes
Hey everyone. I've read through plenty of smog pump posts and haven't seen anything answering this. I doubt anyone has even asked. I know that there are 3 bolts on the back and 2 torx bolts on the front holding this thing in. But that top torx bolt on the front of mine is about as stripped and rounded as its going to get. Now after looking at some pictures of smog pumps, im curious as to how this bolt is holding this thing in place. It almost seems as though the bolt is completely threaded into the pump itself and the head is the only part of the bolt actually holding it there. So I would think I could just knock the head of the bolt off (by whatever means neccesary) and it would come right out. Now am I right or am I badly mistaken?
If you need to turn a fastener with a damaged head (or even no head) these are hard to best:

Those are NOT plain old water pump pliers. They are Chan-Nel-Lock 410G pliers. They are self-gripping, hard as a wild boar's D#$%, and will bite and turn almost anything you can get them around.
I believe the Torx cap screws are only holding the pump together, not mounting the pump to the accessory brackets. I could be mistaken (again), however.

Those are NOT plain old water pump pliers. They are Chan-Nel-Lock 410G pliers. They are self-gripping, hard as a wild boar's D#$%, and will bite and turn almost anything you can get them around.
I believe the Torx cap screws are only holding the pump together, not mounting the pump to the accessory brackets. I could be mistaken (again), however.
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From: Everett, MA . USA
Car: 89 FORMULA FIREBIRD, 86 CHEVY CAMARO
Engine: L98, LB9 RESPECTIVLY
Transmission: 700 R4 (BOTH)
the top bolt goes through the serpentine bracket and screws into the block. If you do break the head off, you may have to remove the entire bracket to get the stud out.
I agree with Vader, the best way is to use the pliers, I've done it a few times.
I agree with Vader, the best way is to use the pliers, I've done it a few times.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 88
Likes: 1
From: Alabama
Car: 91 rs
Engine: 5.7 350 :))
Transmission: 700 r4
Axle/Gears: 1996 - 3.42
Haha. Thank you very much for that information. Glad I decided to ask before goin nuts on the dumb thing. Well we had a few pairs of locking pliers. They may not be as good as the one vader posted but i gave em a shot. Theres just not very much room to work with at all for that bolt. So im going to try a long shot and try to JB Weld a bolt or socket to that bolt.
Last edited by The_Beast; Jan 27, 2006 at 11:58 PM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 88
Likes: 1
From: Alabama
Car: 91 rs
Engine: 5.7 350 :))
Transmission: 700 r4
Axle/Gears: 1996 - 3.42
Ok listen up everybody. I went down to napa the other day after everything I threw up against that bolt miserably fell on its face. I asked them about bolt extractors and they said all they had were these below. I was badly desperate for any possible measure that would work so I bought it. Well they worked like a charm. That bolt was completely stripped and stuck. But it didn't stand a chance against these things. Ive got both sets pictured below. If u don't have one of them go get it now!!!
Heres the set I got.
IRWIN 394002 Bolt Grip Expansion Set
And heres the other set available
Vise Grip (VIS394001) BOLT-GRIP™ 5 Pc. Bolt Extractor Set
Heres the set I got.
IRWIN 394002 Bolt Grip Expansion Set
And heres the other set available
Vise Grip (VIS394001) BOLT-GRIP™ 5 Pc. Bolt Extractor Set
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Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Central Alberta,Canada
Car: 88 Iroc Vert/ 1980 Z28
Engine: 305 TPI/ 350
Transmission: 700R4/ TH350
Axle/Gears: 2.73posi/ 3.08 Open
I just saw these at the hardware store and wondered if the worked or not. I guess they do.
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 88
Likes: 1
From: Alabama
Car: 91 rs
Engine: 5.7 350 :))
Transmission: 700 r4
Axle/Gears: 1996 - 3.42
Ohhhhhhh do they work. Like a charm. The only issue I had was getting 1 (out of the 5 I got) that would fit the head of the bolt. One of them was Just barely too small but since I wasn't goint to reuse the bolt, I just hammered the grip until it was on the bolt good and tight. Then I just had to apply PLENTY of torque to the wrench. Tackled a badly stuck bolt like it was nothing. But yea if youve got a stuck or stripped bolt that you would never wanna reuse then I beg you to buy some of these things, along with a can of PB Blaster at your local wal - mart.
Edit...Lol just saw that youre from Canada. Do they have Wal Marts there??
Edit...Lol just saw that youre from Canada. Do they have Wal Marts there??
Last edited by The_Beast; Mar 13, 2006 at 10:14 PM.
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 67
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From: Detroit
Car: 91 T/A, 79 T/A
Engine: 305 TPI, '68 350 Olds SC'ed
Transmission: 700r4, 350 Streetfighter
Axle/Gears: stock, 3.42
Yes, I need something to get the bottom bolt off my smog pump. I stripped it, it also twisted my torx socket! I think I'm gonna dremel the back where the bolt threads in.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 88
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From: Alabama
Car: 91 rs
Engine: 5.7 350 :))
Transmission: 700 r4
Axle/Gears: 1996 - 3.42
Hey man. Before you go doing anything rash try some of these Bolt Grips. If you get the Irwins then you can just use a socket wrench. You could also then use a hollow pipe to give yourself some extra torque. Get some PB Blaster and spray some on there first. You can get both of these at NAPA and the bolt grips were on partsamerica.com so places like Advance and Auto Zone should have them too. You need the set that I got cause one of them fits pretty snug on those smog pump bolts with some hammering. Good luck.
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From: Bonham TX
Car: 87 & 89 Iroc's
Engine: 5.0 - 5.7
Transmission: 700R's
Axle/Gears: 2.77 - 3.70
Those are great sockets. You bought the expansion pack if you had bought the standard pack you probably would have got one that fits a little better. Get the other pack with the case too, they come in handy.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 88
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From: Alabama
Car: 91 rs
Engine: 5.7 350 :))
Transmission: 700 r4
Axle/Gears: 1996 - 3.42
Yea they definately do come in handy. I bought the other set equivalent from Craftsman. So Ive got the Craftsman case with 5 Craftsman and 5 Irwin Bolt Grips. I like the Irwins better because they fit directly onto a socket wrench. You have to use a big socket that will fit onto the Craftsmans if you wanna use a socket wrench with them. It did feel like I could use more torque that way but thats only if you have a big enough socket that will fit snugly onto the one you have to use.
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 67
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From: Detroit
Car: 91 T/A, 79 T/A
Engine: 305 TPI, '68 350 Olds SC'ed
Transmission: 700r4, 350 Streetfighter
Axle/Gears: stock, 3.42
Originally Posted by The_Beast
Hey man. Before you go doing anything rash try some of these Bolt Grips. If you get the Irwins then you can just use a socket wrench. You could also then use a hollow pipe to give yourself some extra torque. Get some PB Blaster and spray some on there first. You can get both of these at NAPA and the bolt grips were on partsamerica.com so places like Advance and Auto Zone should have them too. You need the set that I got cause one of them fits pretty snug on those smog pump bolts with some hammering. Good luck.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 88
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From: Alabama
Car: 91 rs
Engine: 5.7 350 :))
Transmission: 700 r4
Axle/Gears: 1996 - 3.42
Originally posted by 91tpiTA
I tried taking off the AIR tube fitting closest to the firewall, but it sheared right off. Is there a high temp. JB Weld or something that I can just cap that off? Or would I have to get it welded to cap it off?
I tried taking off the AIR tube fitting closest to the firewall, but it sheared right off. Is there a high temp. JB Weld or something that I can just cap that off? Or would I have to get it welded to cap it off?
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From: Southern IL
Car: 88 GTA "Cocaine"
Engine: 350 tpi
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
I wish I would have seen this post a few month ago when I ground off the top of torx bolt and drilled the part where it treads into the bracket
Thanks for the info
Thanks for the info
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 67
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From: Detroit
Car: 91 T/A, 79 T/A
Engine: 305 TPI, '68 350 Olds SC'ed
Transmission: 700r4, 350 Streetfighter
Axle/Gears: stock, 3.42
Originally Posted by The_Beast
Same thing actually just happened to mine that was closest to the firewall. I had planned on just putting some JB Weld over it. This should work just fine but you have to be careful of one thing. Mine has bad corrosion and dirt all around and in the area so it's going to be hard to get the JB Weld to stick. In some cases like this it will just weld itself to the dirt and then your just putting on a hardening cleaner......But definately clean the area real good and give it a try. JB Weld withstands temps of up to 600 degrees F.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 88
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From: Alabama
Car: 91 rs
Engine: 5.7 350 :))
Transmission: 700 r4
Axle/Gears: 1996 - 3.42
Originally posted by jamon8
I wish I would have seen this post a few month ago when I ground off the top of torx bolt and drilled the part where it treads into the bracket
I wish I would have seen this post a few month ago when I ground off the top of torx bolt and drilled the part where it treads into the bracket
Originally posted by 91tpiTA
Hi. So JB Weld works then? I thought it would melt before 600 degrees. Is there a certain kind of JB Weld to get, or just the normal kind? Thanks!
Hi. So JB Weld works then? I thought it would melt before 600 degrees. Is there a certain kind of JB Weld to get, or just the normal kind? Thanks!
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