Ive searched for a couple hours trying to find answers. I bought a zz9 cam for $50 and im looking to do a cam swap as cheap as possible. With .48 and .52 lift, i know screw in studs are a must. Ive seen that the stock heads only take about .480 lift before the retainers hit the valve guides. What is necessary to make them clear? Have the guides ground down? Also who makes upgraded valve springs that fit as stock replacements? Thanks for any info.
Scott

 

I'll give you $50 buck for the cam problemn solved. But seriously buy the arbor, pocket cutter and tool to machine the tops of the guides from Summit. Order the one that matches your new spring diameter. I used the LT4 kit from GM springs,retainers and locks for $32. They're good to .530.

 

Comp cams can get you springs for almost any application. For high lift you may have to have the spring pocket opened up some for larger diameter springs, the machine shop can do that when they cut the guides down for clearance. Get the proper springs/retainers for the cam then take the heads to the machine shop and they will make it all fit. The machine work should be under $300 I think in Wva.
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I forgot about the LT4 kit i used it on some vortech heads a couple years ago and the springs are a little soft but worked fine for a mild cam. And its very inexpensive.

 

go to a GOOD machine shop and talk to them, tell them what you are doing and they will know what to do for you.

good luck on your porject,
joe

 

I have a ZZ4 cam on my 083 heads. All I have is screw in studs, guideplates and enlarged pushrod holes. I run 1.6 rockers on the intake and 1.5 exhaust making it .505/.510. Haven't had any valvespring retainer to valveguide problems.

 

thats because when they milled your heads for guideplates they also milled the top of your valveguides about .040-.045 for up to .525 lift. so after all of that, you dont have to use seif alineing rocker arms.
YOU SOULD NOT RUN GUIDPLATES & SELF ALINEING ROCKER ARMS AT THE SAME TIME..

 

No. They didnt. I was at the machine shop when it was done, and it was my dads buddy who did it. It was just guideplates and pushrod hole enlargement.

My rocker arms are not self aligning, and I also use hardened push rods (which is another thing to make sure you do).

 

hardened push rods= YES

I myself would...NEVER...run without milling valveguide on anything bigger than .488 because if you dont, it could and will cause coil bind (if no spring perch milling was done) could also trash your rockers (becsuse with bigger lift, or 1.6 rockers, your rockers can contact top of the guide) could bend tops of valves, so do what you think is right.

 

It depends on your application... During reassembly I check the clearance for retainer to valve guide boss. I am below the recommended safety smudge factor of .060 I think it was. Mine was .045 or there abouts.

 

thats why I gave this advice.

 

APACHE JOHN, that sounds like what i'll do. I want to do the work myself. Whats needed for the lt4 kit and where do you get it? Also do you have a part number for that pocket cutter and tool?

MattODoom, Did you check everything to make sure it would clear before you ran it? That would be awesome to just put some screw in studs in and springs.

I dont really want to spend much money on these heads cause i want some better ones later on anyway. These heads just done seem worth it to me.

 

I did check the clearance and it is close. There is a recommended safety clearance of .060" I believe. Mine came to be .045".

It may or may not work for you without milling the guides, if you decide not to mill them make sure you check the gap.

I know of a few other running zz4 cams on non milled 083 heads as well.

But if you have even a slight doubt it wont work and dont want to take the chance play it safe and have it milled.

 

make sure your valve geometrey(??) is right, you may have to go with custom lenth pushrods (maybe, maybe not) but check it to be sure.