Im saving up some money and was thinking a set of Trick Flow 23* heads or a set of Baer claw front brakes the 13 inch front track system was the one I was thinking of. Whats everyones thoughts??

 

What kind of mods do you already have?

I would either go all out on susp first, or go all out on motor forst. I know the 3rd gens have crappy brakes once you start making some serious h.p.

If you do heads, you will need a cam to match and also headers, and a good flowing intake. It is like a chain reaction when talking about doing heads.

Brakes are a little easier to upgrade.

 

Do the brakes and sus first. With more power your going to need to stop faster too.

 

Randy,
What kind of heads are you running now?

 

Right now I have the stock L98 iron heads. I was going to port them, but thought I might as well get new heads while Im at it. See sig. bellow for my other mods.

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Convertible, L98, Edelbrock intake, runners & TES, SLP cam, Thin Head gaskets, March underdrive pulleys, Fastchips custom chip, Accel 300+ ignition, Relocated MAT sensor, TPIS airfoil & AFPR, K&N airfilters W/ chopped airboxs, Dynomax high flo cat, Flowmaster exhaust, MAC subframe connectors, B&M shift kit & XMSN cooler and NOS!!

 

If you want to do some brake mods, get some drilled rotors (80 a piece) some carbon pads and some stainless steel brake lines. Although stock brakes suck, baers are overkill unless you are going full out road racing. I'd love to have them also someday, but realize that they are not necessary for my application.

But if your suspension is sloppy, take care of that first. It is not that expensive to redo it all if you install it yourself.

As mentioned, the heads would be great, but you would be selling yourself short if you did not match ALL other engine components..........

... OK, I took a look at your profile..... AUTOBAHN!!!!! I guess you are in for some good brakes!!

And you also are ready for the heads seeing that you already have the slp cam and ported intake components.

It sounds like you are fast enough for now. I would turn your attention to the entire suspension.... springs, shocks/struts, a good triangle brace, and start replacing some of those rubber bushing with some spherical rod ends if you plan on road racing alot. Check out my MODS. I feel that the components I went with were a good bang for the buck. Everything I did to the suspension and brakes was well under $2000.

One other recommendation, since you have a ragtop ...... ROLLBAR !!!



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Michael Graeber

My Garage

1)83 Z-28 T-Top: Full cage, 9" w/ lad.bars, Midwest Engine Tech 406sbc,Strip Dominator, Demon Carb, Phase VI Chevy Bowtie heads, .630" Crower roller set-up, 1 3/4 coated Hookers 3" true dual exhaust th400, fuel cell & still not running

2)89 Formula WS-6 305 TPI Auto For the road: minor motor, more suspension stuff. MODS

 

graebz28, where did you get your drilled rotors from? It sounds like a good Idea. I need new rotors anyways, when your cruzin at 145 mph and have to stop alot your rotors warp VERY easly.
My plan for my engine is to get the Trick Flow heads and get the Superam, LPE 219* cam and a Vigilante torque converter.

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Convertible, L98, Edelbrock intake, runners & TES, SLP cam, Thin Head gaskets, March underdrive pulleys, Fastchips custom chip, Accel 300+ ignition, Relocated MAT sensor, TPIS airfoil & AFPR, K&N airfilters W/ chopped airboxs, Dynomax high flo cat, Flowmaster exhaust, MAC subframe connectors, B&M shift kit & XMSN cooler and NOS!!

 

Randy, when you get the Baer system, you can get them with cross drilled & slotted rotors. Otherwise, if allyou're going to do is replace stock rotors, GT rotors makes them, and GM has a line now as well.

As from my experience since I have both the TF heads & the Baer 13"/12" track system, I'll agree with the post above about concentrating on the suspension & brakes. With the greatly improved braking & suspension, you'll be able to push the car into turns much longer than with the stock brakes, even if you don't have as much power for the exit as you'd like. Day to day driving is also much safer.

You didn't say which SLP cam you have, (I have the 51010), but when I first modified the original L98, I slapped the TF heads on without changing the cam. Heads made more power than if I had just changed cams. This and the brakes made a good all around first step.

Better yet, find a way to get both at nearly the same time. But if that's not the option, be able to stop first, then add the power.

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KevinP92Z
92 Z28 383 SLP cam,SLP headers,SLP 2ontheLeft,Trick Flow TW heads & pistons,Edelbrock base,Accel SuperRam,52mmTB,Scat Crank & forged ConnRods,MSD 6AL,SLP convertor,Baer 13/12" Track,Moser axles,Hotchkis,Genuine GM 3.42s,SLP HD Torsen,17x9" chrome SS rims
96T/A w/SLP Ram Air,SLP 2ontheLeft, Bilsteins, Baer, Hotchkis, Genuine GM, Torsen
76 4X4 Blazer 400TPI project

 

Your car is already capable of 145 mph.

So, IMHO get the Baer brakes. They are amazing. And being able to stop quickly is just as important, if not more important than accelerating quickly. And since you cruise the autobahn I'm sure you are underbraked as it is.

And also, being in Germany you have killer mountain roads and that is where the big brakes will really shine. No more fade!!

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FORMULA 350 TK
Southern California 3rd Generation F-Body Organization©

 

Kevin, How well does the Baer 13 inch track system fit under our stock 16 inch rims? Or will I have to spend MORE on the 12 inch system?
Thanks for the input guys, I think I go with the brakes and the Vigilante torque converter. By the way I have the small SLP cam from Summit 206* 212* 480 487

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Convertible, L98, Edelbrock intake, runners & TES, SLP cam, Thin Head gaskets, March underdrive pulleys, Fastchips custom chip, Accel 300+ ignition, Relocated MAT sensor, TPIS airfoil & AFPR, K&N airfilters W/ chopped airboxs, Dynomax high flo cat, Flowmaster exhaust, MAC subframe connectors, B&M shift kit & XMSN cooler and NOS!!

 

Randy, when I first installed the Baer 13" up fron, I still had the stock Z28 16x8 rims on. Before ordering the kit, Baer will send you an electronic (or paper copy) template that allows you to test your wheels first. The GTA style mesh 16x8 don't fit with the 13"'s. The Z28 rims fit fine when I checked them. When installed, there was about .080-.090 inch of clearance from the OD of the caliper to the inside of the rim. This worked fine for 2 years with no problems. When I upgraded the system to use the "Baer" logo caliper, 2-3 of the heat sink fins on the caliper barely touched. This was due to some changes when PBR updated there calipers to the low pressure casting technique. I had called to inform Dutch at Baer about this but, since it was so minor, I spent about 2 minutes with a grinder and a couple minutes with a file to "lightly" remove only the high spots off of a couple of heat fins. Problem solved. Ultimately, I switched to some chrome 17"SS rims which give even more clearance.

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KevinP92Z
92 Z28 383 SLP cam,SLP headers,SLP 2ontheLeft,Trick Flow TW heads & pistons,Edelbrock base,Accel SuperRam,52mmTB,Scat Crank & forged ConnRods,MSD 6AL,SLP convertor,Baer 13/12" Track,Moser axles,Hotchkis,Genuine GM 3.42s,SLP HD Torsen,17x9" chrome SS rims
96T/A w/SLP Ram Air,SLP 2ontheLeft, Bilsteins, Baer, Hotchkis, Genuine GM, Torsen
76 4X4 Blazer 400TPI project

 

Randy,

I got those rotors from Summit Racing. Autolite specialites is the company that makes them. They claim to last over 5 times over a standard rotor.

They go through pads faster.

But at 145mph+ I would lean towards the Baer system. You qualify worthy of spending that much cash on brakes.

 

Randy, think seriously about the Baer "system". They are truly incredible. I opted for the smaller 12" setup and added the rear rotors, pads (Baer's recomended formula) and braided lines all around. The difference is night and day. I also did poly bushings, KYB shocks/struts, Hotchkis rear end kit and springs all in the same night with the brakes,so I don't know how the stock suspension will react to the stronger brakes. If everything is in good condition you should be fine. The difference i got was nothing short of astounding. I drove in a loose, mostly worn suspensioned, iffy brakes car and drove out a tight, sure footed solid braking go-cart. I NEVER get surpised by anything anymore. The car has reserves of everything now, suspension is tighter and doesn't get out of shape. The brakes ALWAYS have power to spare no matter what I'm doing. I have been running them for 6 weeks now and have yet to find their limits. Every time I think they can't stop any harder.... they do. You won't be disappointed.

[This message has been edited by 90FFBird (edited October 09, 2000).]